Wheel hop is what results when the tire and the spring fight for control of the axle wrap. The hop results from either the tire being unable to hold the torque or the spring being unable to hold the torque and as they try to grip, the axle wraps up then springs back very rapidly after overriding that grip which creates the hop. Other items like pinion angle or snubber height can add to or hide the problem, but it still simply comes down to control of the tire and/or the spring. So, either you need better gripping tires or springs better able to resist the torque. With a BFG, you should be able to annihilate them, so I'd say some spring tuning is in order. So riddle me this, does the rear of the car lift when you drop the hammer? It should. If it isn't, you have a spring problem.
To tune the springs, take off the rear most clamp. This allows the rear of the pack to soften up and reduces the force that section of spring can provide to snap the axle back. If you still have some hop, than add a clamp to the front section between the factory clamp and the axle. Repeat these steps until the problem goes away. Doing these steps should better control the axle motion without the need to add other traction devices.
FWIW, adjustable snubbers came out of use on drag strip cars, which typically sat higher than road going cars because of the SSp spring packs used on them. Hence the reason your stock snubber is so much shorter. It also was primarily used on stick cars because of the violence associated with a manual trans launch. A properly set up drag race mopar leaf spring set up usually has so much body seperation, a snubber is virtually worthless. On a street car, the snubber ios more of an overload insurance item than an full blown performance option. With two large buddies in back, the springs were compromised enough that the snubber was added to prevent over stressing springs during "spirited" driving with said passengers and creating warranty issues.
