71 Cuda Pro-Touring Build

[TheBilletHouse]

You are the man.  I don't know how you do that on the bridgeport. 

[johns cuda shop]

Thank you Ted. This is what I am working on now. I wanted to fill the large gap between the header panel and the radiator support and keep the air directed thru the radiator and also gives it a cleaner look. I made a hood latch cover out of some 1/16 6061 Aluminum. I added a 1/4 brace under the latch area for extra support. I plan to add the pop up spring and lever for the release . This is how far I got this week

[TheBilletHouse]

You have the mind of a computer and a patience of well, I can't imagine. 

After we get back from Carlisle, I will be designing and making billet hood release levers and catch. 
Thanks to you, I am working on the trunk catches now. 

Thanks again for all your help,
Ted

[grimmey71]

Do want!

[anlauto]

A friend of mine installed these "Quick-Latch" http://www.q-latch.com/product2.html  system on his Viper powered Challenger....Very sweet.

[johns cuda shop]

I bought The Griffin Radiator part # 5-570HC-NXX thru Bouchillon Performance It came complete with Shroud, Electric Fans ,wiring harness and relays. I like this because it bolts right up to the factory 26" radiator opening. They also have the source on the radiator hoses , (part # BPE22039G upper and BPE206096 lower. They required some trimming to fit but it sure beats the look of flex hoses. After installing the radiator I thought it would be beneficial to add some holes in the front bumper for some additional airflow .

[anlauto]

Another trick for rad hoses is to have the correct diameter stainless steel muffler tubing bent, then polished, and only use about 4" of rubber on each end with nice stainless band clamps...

[grimmey71]

John's Cuda shop thanks for the part numbers, things are looking real good

I bought The Griffin Radiator part # 5-570HC-NXX thru Bouchillon Performance It came complete with Shroud, Electric Fans ,wiring harness and relays. I like this because it bolts right up to the factory 26" radiator opening. They also have the source on the radiator hoses , (part # BPE22039G upper and BPE206096 lower. They required some trimming to fit but it sure beats the look of those fex hoses. After installing the radiator I thought it would be beneficial to add some holes in the front bumper for some additional airflow .

[johns cuda shop]

John's Cuda shop thanks for the part numbers, things are looking real good

I tried ordering the radiator straight from Griffin but Bouchillon Performance gave me a better price.

[johns cuda shop]

With space limitations having the 3 TTI exhaust pipes these are the mods I had to do to make the driveshaft loop fit without hitting anything. I also raised the rear tunnel under the seat .This was because the drive shaft was too close top of the tunnel because of the modified ride height . I also double checked my pinion any at this time while it was sitting on all 4 tires. Of course I will have to modify the rear seat frames to fit the tunnel mods.

[Haddixj]

Are you trying to certify the car for racing? On mine for nhra the loop has to be within 6 inches of the front u joint.

[jhaag]

Yes, you want to hold the front of the driveshaft up in case of any failure. That keeps it from digging into the ground and catapulting the rear of the car over the front. If the rear u joint fails the shaft just comes out of the trans and slides below the rear end. I would put it as far forward as possible or incorporate a second one within 6 inches of the front joint for safety.

[johns cuda shop]

Thanks for the input guys, Because of the TTI 3" pipes, (not wanting to rebend the pipes)this is the only place I can put it without interference ,since this is a street car (with only a occasionally run down the strip) I wanted to have some protection..with the exhaust pipes below the front of the driveshaft, I dont think the drive shaft would touch the ground.  Most U joint failures I have seen are at the rear joint.  Having near the rear is the only option.

[anlauto]

With all your metal fabricated abilities, I'm surprised you didn't replace all the floors in the car after the suspension/drive train/exhaust was figured out?
I custom floor pan would give you a nice clean finished look and probably be less work in the long run then cutting and splicing the original pans in a million places

[johns cuda shop]

With all your metal fabricated abilities, I'm surprised you didn't replace all the floors in the car after the suspension/drive train/exhaust was figured out?
I custom floor pan would give you a nice clean finished look and probably be less work in the long run then cutting and splicing the original pans in a million places

    Hi.   I did not want to go that route ,since I don"t have the equipment or the room anyway.... I knew what I was going to do in the beginning.  Since the RMS suspension is already figured out. I had to do the floorboard work because of the T56 tranny , 1 Deg driveline angle and the exhaust. This is all possible with the factory floor pan. A custom floor pan comes into play when you are building a chassis ect ect. There are several posts of mopars that have done the same with the same mods .   I am doing the majority of the mock up here at home ,so it may look unfinished .    Once I get it back on the rotissrie at the body shop  It will look finished . . Thank you for your opinion