prop. valve... adjustable or factory?

[dutch]

The main reason I didn`t drive my cuda when I bought it, was the fact that the rear brakes were a bit too happy.  I couldn`t get the propotioning valve out due to rusty brakelines ,so I started the restoration of the car.

It`s got a dana with 11" drum in the rear ( not original ) and now I wonder what was causing the brakeproblems back then... was the prop valve toast? or should a different prop valve have been mounted when it got 11"brakes? 

-can the original valve be rebuild? if so, where to get the parts?
-should I dump it and get an adjustable one?  if so, what kind and where to get it?

My meteringvalve looks very unhealthy too. The valvestem is rusted up dead stuck...  Are replacements available?

thanks

[Bullitt-]

Inline Tube sells reproduction valves, brads70 did a nice job using an integrated valve made by Wilwood http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=66387.msg691106#msg691106

[dodj]

The main reason I didn`t drive my cuda when I bought it, was the fact that the rear brakes were a bit too happy.

Pretty common trait to these cars. Especially on wet roads! Car really tried to swap ends if you had to slow down in a hurry. I put a Wilwood adjuster in the rear line, but if I didn't have a serviceable factory proportioning valve, I'd go the way Brad did. With the adjuster, you are able to tame the rear brakes to work with the fronts rather than coming on too strong and locking up.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Wilwood/950/260-8419/10002/-1?parentProductId=744516

[brads70]

 I used the Wilwood adjustable valve as mentioned but really.... I never had to adjust it yet? I did use the truck rear wheel cylinders as suggested from this site. I replaced all my brakes and master cylinder so I never drove my car with the stock stuff so I don't know if it would have been a problem or not? But seeing you are having an issue I would install the valve and the truck rear wheel cylinders? Gotta have good brakes especially with all the blood sweat and tears ( and money) we put into our cars. What a couple hundred more considering whats at stake I figured ?

[dutch]

thanks for the replies guys.
Brad, I think I`ll go with the same setup you used... am I correct it deletes all stock valve stuff?  I already renewed the rear slave cylinders and they have the springs and steel cups, so I should be fine ,right?
I can never get it approved for the road if the rear brakes harder than the front.  ( I dont want to either...    )  and since I have to replace every part of the brakesystem, I might as well go this route.  Looks good too 

thanks again 

[brads70]

Yes you get rid of the stock valve/distribution block. As for rear wheel cylinders I used ( as per member Changin Gears suggestion)   the truck #'s Raybestos WC37236, or  DORMAN  W37236.
  the stock bore is 15/16" and the trucks is 7/8"
What master Cylinder are you using? I used the Dr Diff unit 1 1/32 bore I think it is? Can remember exactly? The masters bore size will make a difference too.
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=66387.30

[dutch]

I replaced the wheelcylinders before I pulled the car apart. Not 100% sure but I think they are lockeed. I recently pulled them apart to clean before I reassembled the rear brakes. That`s how I know they have the springs and metal cups inside... not sure what bore though...

Just found out my master is toast, I was planning on using stock replacement...     havent looked into any dr diff stuff yet... I will.

[brads70]

Your looks a little different than mine? Mine is 10 1/2" whats yours? 11'?

[dutch]

dana with 11"

[dutch]

Brad, what would be the advantage of using this aluminium master over a stock one?  the one that was in my car has the same bore?  26mm...
I was looking on rockauto.com, and found raybestos and bendix masters for about 40$.  They list them for use with 10"rear brakes though... not sure if that will cause problems with my 11`s   

[brads70]

I don't think there is any advantage other than weight? Dr Diff has different bore sizes though?

[dodj]

Brad, what would be the advantage of using this aluminium master over a stock one?

Doesn't rust. 

[Chryco Psycho]

When doing a front drum conversion to front disc the rear brakes always semm to be too happy , I typically have installed the Wilwood adjustable valve into the rear line to reduce the pressure to the rear & balance the brake system , swapping to the truck cylinders probably works also but I have not tried that yet

[shadango]

I used the Wilwood adjustable valve as mentioned but really.... I never had to adjust it yet? I did use the truck rear wheel cylinders as suggested from this site. I replaced all my brakes and master cylinder so I never drove my car with the stock stuff so I don't know if it would have been a problem or not? But seeing you are having an issue I would install the valve and the truck rear wheel cylinders? Gotta have good brakes especially with all the blood sweat and tears ( and money) we put into our cars. What a couple hundred more considering whats at stake I figured ?

Same here....truck rear cylinders and a summit adjustable prop valve.   Pretty sure my valve is currently full open.....probably could have gotten away with just the truck rear cylinders...but what the heck. (although I had fits trying to make brake line fittings that wouldnt leak...LOL)   

Keep in mind I have manual brakes, so that may come into play with rear lockup.

I also went to Dr Diff's aluminum master cylinder.  I like the plastic caps for convenience versus the whole lid type the oem was.

I have a parts store new oem type master cylinder I should probably try selling....wont use it.