My suspension parts list

[aris_unlimited]

Hey guys I have been fighting with this parts list for some time now, trying to make sure that I have everything that I need (and want). Figured I would post it up in here and see if there is anything that I am missing, that I haven't noticed. Sometimes a fresh set of eyes helps after all.

Firm feel idler arm
Firm feel pitman arm
Moog tie rod end adjusting sleeve
Moog inner tie rod ends
Moog outer tie rod ends
Moog lower ball joints
Moog strut rod bushing kit
Moog control arm camber bolt kit
Moog upper control arm bumpers
Energy suspension lower control arm bumpers
Hotchkis front and rear sway bar kit (comes with all required bushings, etc)
Edelbrock front and rear shocks
Hotchkis torsion bars (comes will all bushings, etc)

CAP auto tubular k-member
CAP auto tubular upper control arms (all bushings, ball joints etc)
CAP auto tubular lower control arms (all bushings, etc)

Summit racing leaf springs (all bushings, etc.)

Ok, there is the list. Please feel free to critique it and let me know if there is anything that I need on there. Or even if there is something on there that I don't need.

Thanks guys. Like previously said, I have been pouring over this thing for a couple days now just trying to get it exactly how I want it, so some fresh eyes going over it could be a huge bonus.

[dodj]

If $ allow, I'd add in adjustable strut rods with hiem joints instead of the rubber bushings.


Did you check out CAP's adjustable strut rods? (Brads70 can show you how to make them  )

[brads70]

If you have the buget I'd go for the Hotchkis upper control arms? 

[HP2]

Firm feel idler arm                        Fast ratio or standard?
Firm feel pitman arm                    Ditto
Moog tie rod end adjusting sleeve  I'd skip these and go solid
Moog inner tie rod ends                  Cool   
Moog outer tie rod ends                  Cool   
Moog lower ball joints                     Cool
Moog strut rod bushing kit               Okay if the are rubber, Cool if they are urethane. You want a fairly stiff bushing here, IMO.
Moog control arm camber bolt kit     Cool
Moog upper control arm bumpers    Cool
Energy suspension lower control arm bumpers   If the really low 11/16" ones, cool
Hotchkis front and rear sway bar kit (comes with all required bushings, etc)   Cool
Edelbrock front and rear shocks         Cool
Hotchkis torsion bars (comes will all bushings, etc)  Okay, I think there are better deals out there for 1.03 bars

CAP auto tubular k-member              This one I'm not too hip on. This K looks awfully spindley for street use. No 1st hand info, just an observation
CAP auto tubular upper control arms (all bushings, ball joints etc)  Okay
CAP auto tubular lower control arms (all bushings, etc)    Okay.

Summit racing leaf springs (all bushings, etc.)   Cool

[aris_unlimited]

Firm feel parts are fast ratio
Does moog make solid tie rod ends?
I'm going to assume that the strut rod bushings are rubber being that they are moog.
Better suggestion for the torsion bars?

The CAP k-member is the only one I have been able to find that is NOT part of a complete suspension kit, and fits stock parts. Do you know of another?

Reason I went with CAP upper control arms over Hotchkis, is because they are almost $400 cheaper.

I'm also kind of leary of adjustable strut rods. I like things that just bolt in. Adjustable to me, means I'll have to keep tinkering with it.

[brads70]

Yes the firm feel  idler and pitman are fast ratio, caution as they don't fit with some brands of headers!Look on FF web site for more info
With the solid tie rods ends HP2 meant the adjuster sleeves solid not like the stock ones.
Firm feel makes larger torsion bars and PST has 1.030" bars on sale now.
I to think the cap auto k-frame is just to light for the street? Just my opinion though. Post on moparts about them breaking that and the upper control arms breaking too? FYI?
Adjustable strut rods just make setting up the front end easier and take some of the "bind" out of the suspension.
Hope my 2 cents helped?
Brad

[aris_unlimited]

If anyone has any other suggestions on the K-member I would gladly listen. The only reason I am looking at a different k-member is because it will help a lot with the fitment of my motor (5.7 hemi).

An aftermarket k-member should make it so I don't have to replace the oil pan, or move the AC compressor.

[HP2]

Yes, solid tie rod sleeves, not solid tie rod ends. Split sleeves flex, solid sleeves do not.

Retaining the t-bar layout means you stick with the stock K or with a new K frame it means your pretty much limited to CAP.  I've never done a 5.7 conversions, so I'm unaware of interference issues and methods of resolution.  I guess I'd look at whats it cost to replace the pan and move the a/c compared to buying the new k frame and matching control arms and decide which is the more budget friendly approach. Similarly, if your trying to  minimize the impact on the budget, skipping tubular upper and lower arms and simply adding offset upper control arm bushings can save a bundle.

You might also start quizing guys who done the 5.7 change about how they worked around specific issues. For example; the fast ratio arms your proposing have interference issues with certain header ans stock engine combos, but the relative newness of the 3G hemi swaps means your potentially looking at another unknown here as well.

[autoxcuda]

Yes, solid tie rod sleeves, not solid tie rod ends. Split sleeves flex, solid sleeves do not.

Retaining the t-bar layout means you stick with the stock K or with a new K frame it means your pretty much limited to CAP.  I've never done a 5.7 conversions, so I'm unaware of interference issues and methods of resolution.  I guess I'd look at whats it cost to replace the pan and move the a/c compared to buying the new k frame and matching control arms and decide which is the more budget friendly approach. Similarly, if your trying to  minimize the impact on the budget, skipping tubular upper and lower arms and simply adding offset upper control arm bushings can save a bundle.

You might also start quizing guys who done the 5.7 change about how they worked around specific issues. For example; the fast ratio arms your proposing have interference issues with certain header ans stock engine combos, but the relative newness of the 3G hemi swaps means your potentially looking at another unknown here as well.

I agree.

Does the CAP tubular K member give you room for the 5.7 that the stock K-member doesn't. Like for header and oil pan?

Just run the stock lower control arms. Not much gain from the tubular ones. Put that money towards $400/4 shocks Bilstein RCD's or Hotchkis leaf springs that are designed for handling.

[brads70]

I agree.

Does the CAP tubular K member give you room for the 5.7 that the stock K-member doesn't. Like for header and oil pan?

Just run the stock lower control arms. Not much gain from the tubular ones. Put that money towards $400/4 shocks Bilstein RCD's or Hotchkis leaf springs that are designed for handling.

  X2

[aris_unlimited]

Yeah, I decided to yank out all the tubular components. I am going to ask some of the guys what oil pan they used, to make the 5.7 fit. As for the ac compressor I will just have to see what I can do with that when the time comes.

As for headers fitting, with the fast ratio idler and pitman arms. I am planning on using TTI headers, and I will be sure to talk to them about wether they will fit or not first. If not, it just so happens that there is a custom car shop in town with me so I could have them make me custom headers, or I could just buy some headers and make them fit lol.

[dodj]

Tthe TTI headers don't work with the BB, SB it says you have to dimple one tube.
http://firmfeel.com/fastrati.htm

[aris_unlimited]

Also I don't think that I will go with hotchkis leaf springs. It's great that they are made for handling and everything, but I don't want to drop the rear end down an inch, which happens when you use those leaf springs.

As for the shocks I am not set on those ones right now. Still trying to figure out which ones would work best, when the time comes.

[brads70]

Tthe TTI headers don't work with the BB, SB, it says you have to dimple one tube.
http://firmfeel.com/fastrati.htm

I think he is going with a new style  Hemi 5.7 ? Wonder if they fit Ok with that combo?

[Travis72]

I think it depends on if you have a truck (rear sump) or car (front sump) if it will fit or not.  I think with a truck rear sump pan it might fit (you'll have to verify that), but with a car front sump, it won't fit.  I've only looked in to this for the 6.1L.  For example, the 6.1L hemi from a car won't fit either a stock K-member or an AlterKation front suspension.  So either way you have to get a custom oil pan. With your 5.7 its probably the same way, so I wouldn't let the oil pan dictate your suspension choice.  Here's a good link with some info:

http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/G3Oil_Components.asp

There's also a Milodon pan not mentioned on Bouchillon's page.

If it was me, I'd skip the CAP parts and tubular k-member and go with the complete Hotchkis suspension setup.  TTI makes headers for the swap.

Travis
72 Cuda