It looks like your banana bracket is too curved.  Do you have a stock one lying around to compare it to? 



I'm thinking if it was a little shorter and straighter it may work.

Have you compared the mounting holes between the two alternators?  There is an obvious geometry mismatch there.  Maybe the top bracket on the new alternator is in a different position from the stock alternator?  If the banana bracket was either straighter, or moved further up its mounting position it looks like it would work.  I imagine the holes in the brackets don't help.   

Thanks to your posts, I think I've figured out the intent of the two pieces.  One is for cutting to make the spacer on the main mounting bolt and keep the alternator stationary.

The second is to put in the banana bracket mount point to so that it can be tightened down/keep belt tension.  It needs to displace a cylinder already in the alternator.  Not sure, but I may have to press the existing one out.  They give you this piece separate so if you can right- and left- mount the alternator.

That solves the belt alignment problem, just have to do it.

Now, for the banana bracket--the old alternator was 6.5" center of main bolt to center of banana bracket bolt.  Both are mounted on opposite sides of the alternator.

The Powermaster alternator is 5.5" center to center and the bolts are on two adjacent corners of the alternator  (I only mention the latter because it means the topmost-part of the PM alternator sits higher than the original when at the same angle--full height of alternator instead of half-height, which is the reason I'm running into my A/C hoses).

What is now curious is the YearOne description...the alternator above this one in the catalogue says that "some modifications to the mounting bracket are required."  I assumed the omission of this statement on the PM one meant they weren't. 

That's what I get for assuming, I suppose.

So...now I'm in the market for mounting brackets.  PM is my next contact, I suppose.


So back to the electrical stuff--this alternator is a one-wire alternator with an internal voltage regulator--so I can rip out my current external voltage regulator, yes?


JF

Try a turnbucke and right and left hand thread rod ends.  Cheap and easy and it looks good.

Not following you...  What would I use the turnbuckle for?

Interesting.  Thanks for the suggestions.

I think at this point my COA is to:
1.  cut the banana bracket, grind it so that it is a fork and looks good.  This doesn't give me a whole lot of adjustment room but I might be able to loosen the bracket bolt and move both alternator and bracket to accommodate give me more movement range in the combination of the two.
2.  failing that, resort to turnbuckle solution. 

Looks like I need a press/c-clamp to get the cylinder out to put in the secondary mounting screw.

Lastly, spoke with Powermaster tech and he said that the wiring disconnect on the back of the PM alternator is not actually used, but rather was grandfathered in from previous alternator.  Finally that whole 1-wire alternator phrase is making sense.   

Just need to confirm by looking at the wiring diagrams for the blue/green wires, but I *think* this means that I can cut the blue wire at the splice before the connection to the voltage regulator, and pull out the regulator.

JF

Try Summit Racing.

Tom

Rod End

Try their alternator mounting kits, I think they sell replacement center sections.

Tom