fender mounted turn signals

[burdar]

Since there is just a single wire (with a barrel connector) coming off of the fender mounted turn signal, I assume that the unit is grounded by the screw used to hold it onto the fender correct?  This is a 73 so there is just a philips head screw holding the unit to the fender.

The problem is that the fenders were drilled for the 70-72 style light that used a stud/nut to hold it to the fender.  My plan was to put a small piece of scrap sheet metal underneith the fender in that area so I would have something to run the mounting screw into.  However, if I use JB weld or something like that to hold the sheet metal inplace, it won't provide a ground for the light.

Short of soldering a wire onto the scrap piece of sheet metal to use as a ground, does anyone have any other ideas?  Using the 70-72 style light is not an option.  Thanks

[Slotts]

Hey Darren,

Actually, I like the idea of soldering a ground wire on the metal piece before installing. That line can run past the headlight splash shield and be connected on that side. You will have a solid ground that way.

Slotts

[burdar]

Hey Jim...Thanks for validating my idea.  I should be able to contain the ground wire forward of the splash shield.  That way if you look inside the wheelwell, everything will look stock.  I can attach the wire to the fender behind the headlights. 

I'm cleaning up the turn signals now.  They were in a box with all the other wiring...including the ECU.  Where ever I had that box stored, it got pretty hot and melted the potting jell in the ECU all over one of the lights.    

[IMNCARN82]

I thought the ground on those was a small tab under the light. It needs to be in contact with bare metal.After painting I had to scratch some paint off.  The ground wire is a good idea.

[burdar]

There are some brass contacts on the bottom of the rubber gasket that is built into the socket.  Did the factory really leave bare metal under the light?  The chrome turn signal housings have two tabs on the inside that sit down onto brass contacts on the upper part of the socket.  I assumed the ground went through the crome housing into the attaching screw.

Now I have to figure a way to enlarge the 1/2" hole in the fender to 5/8" without ruining the paint.  It would take forever enlarging it with a round file.  I have some of those stepped drill bits.  I'm scared to use those though.

[femtnmax]

I have some of those stepped drill bits.  I'm scared to use those though.

No kidding.  I wouldn't push my luck with a step bit either.   Do you have a small diameter fine tooth carbide cutter with variable speed...like for cylinder head porting? 
A friend has his cattle ranch out in the hills, the only electricity is if he turns on the generator.  He would have no issue with using a round file by hand as you mentioned. 

By the way, your cars paint looks beautiful.

[burdar]

By the way, your cars paint looks beautiful.

Thanks

No kidding.  I wouldn't push my luck with a step bit either.   Do you have a small diameter fine tooth carbide cutter with variable speed...like for cylinder head porting?

Accually, I have a dremel tool with a cone shaped stone bit.  I just used it tonight to slightly modify the door where the handle attaches.  I think that would work pretty good.  I'd take my time and go back and forth between the two sides.  That way I wouldn't build up too much heat.

[73RallyeChallenger]

Hi Darren,

I just did this to the RH fender you sold me. One thing that I didn't take enough time to think out was that the hole for the 73-74 is quite a bit larger than the 70-72 signal lights. If you enlarge the hole equally on all sides this moves the light cover over to the inside edge by approximentaly 1/8" of an inch. This does not sound like a lot, but the light is already close and you will notice it. Correctly done, the edge of the hole is 3/8" of an inch from the inside edge of the fender where the hood rests. The hole size you need is 9/16" for 73-74, and I think 3/8" for 70-72.  If you enlarge the hole you currently have from 3/8" to 9/16" even all the way around, the centre of the hole shrinks the distance to the inside edge by half the distance of the enlarged size of the hole. I hope this makes sense. (3/8" - 9/16" = 3/16" divide by 2 = 1.5/16").

Bottom line... increase the hole size on the outside edge only, not the inside edge or make sure you do not decrease the distance of the edge of the hole by any less than 3/8".

The picture below is the correct measurements for the 73-74 e-body signal lights. The large hole is 9/16".

[burdar]

I was going to search for that picture...now I don't have to.   However, one of us is looking at the picture wrong.  The hole still looks like 5/8" to me.  I'm going to put tape over the existing holes so I can mark out the correct location. 

[73RallyeChallenger]

I think I made a mistake. I have 2 large drill bits, 9/16" and 11/16" I thought I had drilled it with the 9/16" but I doubled checked and it appears I drilled the hole with the 11/16" bit. You are right, the hole is only 10/16" and I think 11/16" is going to be too big because the rubber has to snap into the hole to hold it down. it has to be a perfect 10/16" hole in order for the rubber to catch in the channel. I will have to test fit it when I see my car this week.