My new stroker burning oil ***Engine pulled***

[UKcuda]

I hope to much fuel hasn't destroyed my rings and/or cylinderwalls. 

Per

You're worrying too much - even if that was likely to be a problem, all that oil will have protected them.   

Lean out the carburettor and drive on.   

[Belgium Cuda]

Will go down 2 sizes on the primary jets, hopefully that can increase my throttleresponse aswell.

Per

[mopar12372]

after the corrections that you made i would put at least 50 t0 100 miles on the engine before the next change made to the engine. check vital signs and try to drive WITH  the engine at all speeds to get a feel how everything is working . if you suck oil through the pvc the oil can get in all areas of the engine . there are cleaners out there i would absulutely not clean any engine hemi or 4cyl  if it had the symptoms your engine  has . the oil will not hurt it the cleaners will. if it still is burning oil after the initial run of 50-100 miles i would check into ther possible problems .
 if theres normal  oil pressure cold and hot coolant temps are stable and the car feels like it has some power with out smokeing out the people behind you i would do some tuneing and enjoy the ride !!!! IMOP  THE CHARGER    sounds really good 

[UKcuda]

Will go down 2 sizes on the primary jets, hopefully that can increase my throttleresponse aswell.

Per

Remind me what carburettor and jets you have.  If it's a Holley don't forget a power valve failure can make it run rich.

[Belgium Cuda]

Here the carbspecs:

Proform 850 Race series, new, out of the box.

Primary main jet 76, secondary 84
Idle air bleed 70, Hi speed bleed 33
Pri nozzle 33, sec nozzle 33
Needle & seat 120, Power valve 4,5

Per

[Chryco Psycho]

you need to have at least 5" of vacuum @idle in gear [only if Auto trans] with the 4.5 power valve

[Belgium Cuda]

you need to have at least 5" of vacuum @idle in gear [only if Auto trans] with the 4.5 power valve

I have 8-9" of vacuum on idle in gear, does that make it OK with a 4.5 Powervalve?

Not to sound negative but I'm back to think it's oil I'm burning and not excessive fuel although it's running rich and needs to be jetted.
The smell, plugs and dipsticklevel tells me I have a problem here. Also the smoke from the breathers already at startup indicates it's not hot
oil creating that but high crankcasepressure. I guess comptest is the next step?

Per

[Chryco Psycho]

if it is running rich at idle you can open up the outer air bleeds with a number drill set , if it irunning rich cruising you can open the inner bleeds up slightly .
 I would do the compression test , you should not have smoke at cold idle
the powervalve is fine with 8+" of vacuum

[Belgium Cuda]

Do you mean smoke at the breathers or from the tailpipes?

I have immediatly smoke from the breathers, cold engine, even with PCV installed. No smoke from the tailpipes at idle, cold or warm.

Per

[jimynick]

Per, have you done a leakdown test? You can buy the tester which is composed of 2 gauges that will show you the percentage of leakage through any one cylinder. They're not overly expensive and will eliminate, once and for all the guess work about compression/sealing. When on the engine, you can listen carefully at the carb, tailpipe and valve cover breather for the tell-tale sound of escaping air and get a sense of whether it's an intake or exhaust valve problem or a ring problem. Most new, tight engines wouldn't leak much more than 10% max to be healthy. You can chase your tail with carburation, but cold engine blowby sounds to me, like a compression problem-ring seal/piston integrity. Buy or borrow the tester, hook it up to a source of compressed air and help yourself sort this thing out once and for all. Good luck 

[Belgium Cuda]

Per, have you done a leakdown test? You can buy the tester which is composed of 2 gauges that will show you the percentage of leakage through any one cylinder. They're not overly expensive and will eliminate, once and for all the guess work about compression/sealing. When on the engine, you can listen carefully at the carb, tailpipe and valve cover breather for the tell-tale sound of escaping air and get a sense of whether it's an intake or exhaust valve problem or a ring problem. Most new, tight engines wouldn't leak much more than 10% max to be healthy. You can chase your tail with carburation, but cold engine blowby sounds to me, like a compression problem-ring seal/piston integrity. Buy or borrow the tester, hook it up to a source of compressed air and help yourself sort this thing out once and for all. Good luck 

No, not yet but I'm looking for a garage where I can lend the tester from. I did took a compression test today, 12kg/170psi on all 8 cylinders, cold engine, WOT.
How is that for a new engine?

Per

[Strawdawg]

Not bad for a cold engine, imo.

wondering if it is sucking oil around the intake gasket back into the intake ports?

[jimynick]

Not bad for a cold engine, imo.

wondering if it is sucking oil around the intake gasket back into the intake ports?
 - The big deal is uniformity and if they're ALL 170, that sounds decent. It varies due to static compression ratio and cam specs, so it's hard to say one figure is good or bad. There's a finite # of places that oil can get into the combustion chamber and it's either coming UP past the rings or DOWN past a gasket or seal. How were the valve seals? Are they the Perfect Circle type or oem umbrella? Where they installed using the slip covers? Was the clearance between the valve spring retainer and the top of the valve guide checked for clearance on the seal at full valve lift? If you put a big cam with a larger ratio rocker on the thing, you MIGHT have squashed the seals causing a leak. Was the side to side movement of the valve stem checked for clearances? Where the guides replaced, do they expose in the port? Lots of things to check as well as the previously mentioned gaskets. Fun, eh?

[mojavered]

It sounds like the rings may have never seated and the walls are glazed.

[jimynick]

It sounds like the rings may have never seated and the walls are glazed.
That might be it, also. I had a 340 that we put factory chrome rings back in and they never seated. There was an old trick where you fed 'er a bit of Comet to try to get the rings to scuff through the glaze, but I never liked the sound of it. Do the leakdown and listen at the breather in the valve cover for the telltale hiss if it's pissing past the rings. What a pain in the cojones!