Author Topic: What to do first (Read 3659 times)

cudabeforeIdie · « **on:** May 17, 2011 - 02:34:20 PM »

Hey folks,
the more I read and learn on this forum, the more I realize I need to read and learn more.

Given any restoration project is subjective and depends on the actual condition of the car, I'll ask this question hypothetically:

What is the first (most important) thing to be accomplished with a restoration?
Then the 2nd? etc?

What I know about this process will fit in a shot glass with enough room left over to pour a decent drink, but I'm going to assume its the body and paint that should be done first? Then axles/suspension/brakes 2nd?

Thanks for your patience,
Laurie

MEK-Dangerfield · « **Reply #1 on:** May 17, 2011 - 04:57:27 PM »

I'll just say buy the most expensive car being close to finished as you can. If you buy something for 5K, you might get discouraged by how much time it takes to really do it up right. Know your limits as far as what work you can do, and what you have to farm out. If someone else has to do the body work for example, that's another bite to the budget.

I agree with you with doing the body work first, but not necessarily the paint. You would want to do the paint the engine bay before you drop the engine in, but the outside can wait. You can work on the brakes and suspension without worrying about scratching the paint. Do the interior last. I hate to bring this up, but there are usually electrical gremlins to chase down too.

the_engineers · « **Reply #2 on:** May 17, 2011 - 05:08:31 PM »

Solid body is the most important. If you can do body all the better, but figure the best body you can afford will be money ahead.

Some people change motors or suspension as often as underwear. If you're set on Hemi, start saving. Don't buy anything that doesn't fit the final goal or vision.

Are you willing to wait until this is finished to drive it, or are you hoping to drive while making upgrades?

Bullitt- · « **Reply #3 on:** May 17, 2011 - 09:07:40 PM »

I think the 1st step is finding the right car, I see many folks disappointed, disillusioned, after they get their prize home & realize that they've gotten into more than they bargained for or didn't get what they were expecting.
I'd suggest attending one of the major Mopar Events where you can see a lot of cars, maybe drive a few, to see what really appeals to you. There should be plenty of Gurus around to give you the low down on condition, collectability & value. You might even find what your looking for 4-sale.

cudabeforeIdie · « **Reply #4 on:** May 17, 2011 - 11:34:50 PM »

You guys are so awesome....

To be honest, every phase of the restoration will be a challenge for me, though I do have some local support as well as this fabulous forum. A friend of mine's dad was in the body shop business for decades, he's retired now but still maintains a very small shop near here. I told him what I wanted to do, and when he finished laughing hysterically, he said he'd help in any way he could.

What I've learned from this thread so far is to look for a good/better body. Waiting on the paint seems reasonable given the chances of the car being dinged up while its being worked on.... but the engine area would have to be painted before the engine goes in, then I'd be paying for 2 trips to the paint shop. (I've already decided body work and paint would be silly for me to attempt. Not only zero experience, but no tools for these tasks.) I really have nothing to lose by attempting all the other stuff myself. If I screw it up or break it or just can't do it, I'll just have to pay someone! (yikes!)

I wouldn't drive it until its "done", gosh I hate seeing cars driven that are all bondo and different colors...

You're right bullit, I need a lot more exposure to car guru's in person too, and I won't buy anything that isn't "perfect" for me. Actually, I've never driven a '71 hemi cuda.... but I know its going to be awesome.

I just want to go over one itty bitty detail - a hemi engine (original or crate) will fit in ANY '71 body, right?

Laurie!

Jesus H Chrysler · « **Reply #5 on:** May 18, 2011 - 01:15:52 AM »

Laurie, here's how I think about it. You can write a check and have an engine and transmission dropped off at your house. In less than a week the average mechanic can have them in the car running and driving. New brakes and suspension in a day or 2. Even buy a new engine wiring harness and plug it in in a couple of hours. But if you have a rusty car, it could take months or years to get the body work straightened out, never mind all the missing pieces that you don't notice till it all starts coming together.

My suggestion is buy the best BODY you can afford. Even if it's a slant six auto. If it's rust free it's FAR easier to simply unbolt what you don't want and replace with what you do. Then again, I'm far more mechanically inclined than artistic (body work). I know body men that will work tirelessly for hours on one small dent, but won't even touch the spark plugs in their own car. It's where you're aptitude lies that will help you chose the car. If you have access to cheap body work, then you save money there by picking up a cheaper (more rusty) car and have your friends do the work. If not, I've found it's easier to learn mechanics because of all the reference books out there and forums like this one. Body work is an art that needs to be seen and felt to learn.

And yes, in 1970 they designed the E-body around the Hemi. All years from 70-74 can fit the Hemi with proper modifications. One suggestion: If you don't care about numbers matching and want to save some $$$, Pick up a 72-74 Barracuda and convert it to a 71. Depending on what you're seeing for prices, it may end up being more economical even when factoring in the extra body work. No one but die hard Mopar people will tell the difference. just a thought.

360FISH · « **Reply #6 on:** May 18, 2011 - 01:50:26 AM »

I have less skills than it sounds like you have... My shot glass is empty (well... okay cause I drank what was in it!)

I went for a '73 driver with a good body. Over time I'm working out all the kinks and getting it where I want it... I am having fun driving it now and working on it too!

So... spend a little more to get something you can drive and enjoy right away.

Alan

Todd Smith · « **Reply #7 on:** May 18, 2011 - 02:15:12 AM »

Quote from: Jesus H Chrysler on May 18, 2011 - 01:15:52 AM

Laurie, here's how I think about it. You can write a check and have an engine and transmission dropped off at your house. In less than a week the average mechanic can have them in the car running and driving. New brakes and suspension in a day or 2. Even buy a new engine wiring harness and plug it in in a couple of hours. But if you have a rusty car, it could take months or years to get the body work straightened out, never mind all the missing pieces that you don't notice till it all starts coming together.

My suggestion is buy the best BODY you can afford. Even if it's a slant six auto. If it's rust free it's FAR easier to simply unbolt what you don't want and replace with what you do. Then again, I'm far more mechanically inclined than artistic (body work). I know body men that will work tirelessly for hours on one small dent, but won't even touch the spark plugs in their own car. It's where you're aptitude lies that will help you chose the car. If you have access to cheap body work, then you save money there by picking up a cheaper (more rusty) car and have your friends do the work. If not, I've found it's easier to learn mechanics because of all the reference books out there and forums like this one. Body work is an art that needs to be seen and felt to learn.

And yes, in 1970 they designed the E-body around the Hemi. All years from 70-74 can fit the Hemi with proper modifications. One suggestion: If you don't care about numbers matching and want to save some $$$, Pick up a 72-74 Barracuda and convert it to a 71. Depending on what you're seeing for prices, it may end up being more economical even when factoring in the extra body work. No one but die hard Mopar people will tell the difference. just a thought.

absolutely

Check this post out! http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=76807.0 here is a person with patients and TENACITY

This is common in a restoration. Take your budget and time your willing to Waite, work, bleed or better Hemorrhage $$

I'm here after 3 years! but my budget is LOW. So I pick up parts as I can = SloooW and I have to do everything myself. If I had it to over, I'd have waited till I could afford a - more together starting point. But I'm a having a BALL!!
Just my

GranCuda1970 · « **Reply #8 on:** May 18, 2011 - 02:28:42 AM »

Yep, as long as you have a V8 K-Frame and the proper motor mounts. You may need to remove the passenger side radiator panel of the core support to install the bigger Blocker radiator. Someone sawzalled all of mine out so I had to put it back in correct. If you don"t want to do alot of dowling , hammering, welding and grinding get a body that is as straight as you can before starting or buy a project body that is already done and painted. You can get almost everything now to put one together but she issa gonna raid your purse everytime. Especially a 572 all ally Hemi Monster.

RB2929 · « **Reply #9 on:** May 18, 2011 - 07:46:52 AM »

After getting the car in the best body/frame condition as possible�
Well, you can actually do this first: Get the Chrysler mechanics books. I�m writing this from work and don�t have the actual names handy.
The mechanic�s books are two books that cover every portion of the car for a specific year. I purchased mine years ago for $65 for the set; the best tool I ever purchased.
They provide step-by-step instructions with pictures (I like pictures). To along with the mechanic books, pickup catalogs from Year One, Classic Industries, etc. The catalogs contain pictures, diagrams, and are labeled for the correct year, make, model. Take time and read through the books and become familiar with them. Restoring a car can be compared to building a plastic model, just a lot bigger. And the plastic models come with instructions, why not have instructions for the big model?

Oh, and can�t forget the obvious - your choice - lots of money or lots of time.

Good luck with your project!
Keep us posted as the build progresses, with pictures of course

Ron

cudabeforeIdie · « **Reply #10 on:** May 19, 2011 - 12:59:15 AM »

I got it guys, get the best body I can and go from there!
So I find this '71 with a great body (we're still talking cars here right?) and get it home.
Assume it has no engine (a hemi will fit!), no interior, but it rolls and has a title.
What's my next step?

Like I said on my newbie thread tonight, I received the Schild book today on cuda's and challengers. Already read it cover to cover, have to read it many more times. Awesome book, just terrific.

And as I watching the Mecum auction on TV tonight (after reading the Schild book), and saw the '74 cuda with the 440 badge I knew enough to say - I don't think so! Couldn't believe that car sold for 26K!!!!!! I'm about to spend that on another regular car in the next week or so. Really nice cars were selling so cheap!

Ron, when its convenient, I'd love the names of those books. I'm just assuming this project will take lots of time AND lots of money, oh well. I can't wait...

grandcuda1970, is that the crate engine? with all the modern emissions crap? I don't want a catalytic converter and O2 sensors, etc.... was that a dumb thing to say?

plumbcrazy your car is going to be awesome when its done!

Alan I'm glad you're enjoying your car! I'm OK with waiting until my baby is 'done'.

JHC, I agree totally (now) about the body, but still want to stay with the '71, I may not be able to get a real
hemi-cuda, and if I have to "make" one, I'd at least want the body to be 'original'. Sound stupid?

Laurie

Street_Challenged73 · « **Reply #11 on:** May 19, 2011 - 02:54:43 AM »

I would probably say the first step is to figure out what your budget is for tackling an upcoming restoration then take that number & double it as that is probably going to be a more realistic dollar (or Euro) figure once the restoration gets underway. If you do plan on sticking with a set number, then it is going to involve a lot of self-learning lessons in all the various fields associated with vehicles (mechanics, electronics, & body repair) & probably a longer amount of time than what you originally anticipated because you get to factor in that whole "learning curve" thing.

As for which area to begin with once you've secured a car to undergo a restoration, it's all up to what the builder wishes to do with it. If you're perfectly fine with driving around something that looks rough around the edges, but runs well, then I would say you would want to get the mechanics in check first then begin tackling the body work & paint as time & budget allows.

On the other hand, if you want it done right the first time around & don't want to have to be pulling stuff back off later when you do a complete paint job, then you will probably want to get the body work & paint out of the way first. The disadvantage to going this route is that the car will most likely end up being off the road longer than you had wanted/anticipated it to be, but once it does hit the streets it'll have a nice new paint job to complement the smooth running engine.

I chose the second option (do it once, do it right), but as you can see it's still off the road awaiting more time & money than I have available at the moment (student loans really suck once they go into their repayment phase). Fortunately, I was able to pull enough extra money together over a summer to purchase a fun, drivable car to feed my urge for something that looks nice, runs well & is quick until I can get back to working on the Chally.

Cooter · « **Reply #12 on:** May 19, 2011 - 06:54:43 AM »

Laurie, Take this for what you paid for it....

Restoring an antique car is NOT for the faint of heart. WAY too many people get into it with the best of intentions only to be seeling out in a year or two. Sorry if this offends, but you sound like your of the younger generation..You know the one..Where everything must be instant gratification?
Sorry to burst your bubble, but There is only one way to get instant gratification in the antique car hobby. Have ass loads of money, be like all the rest at the local car shows and just write a check for a done car..When asked about the work involved you can try to explain as to how hard your actually worked on cleaning the wheels and filling it up with fuel...

OR..............

You can become one of the few that buy a car, a little rough around the edges, missing a few parts, but with a dream and nothing more than sheer determination, you build your car your way. There are many on here that claim they simply cannot do bodywork/engine work/etc...
I don't buy this..there's NOTHING one cannot do if put in a situation where one HAS to do it. there are those that simply don't WANT to do it and therefore, have to pay someone else to do it..Then, comes the HUGE money Hemorrhage that was mentioned.

So, the first thing I'd say you need to do is have a long talk with yourself and find out if you have the "Stones" to pull off a restoration, or are you just dreaming...Like I said, there are WAY TOO MANY that get into this thinking they are gonna be driving one of the musclecars they just saw on TV or in that new music video in just 1 or 2 short years. once they find out this sh*t usually takes anywhere from 3-7 years to build, they lose momentum and give up....One more thing, make sure your girlfriend,boyfriend,life partner, whatever, don't give you no sh*t over the restoration.

RB2929 · « **Reply #13 on:** May 19, 2011 - 07:40:20 AM »

Cuda Before I Die-
The Chrysler Manuals are: Chassis and Body Vol I, and Chasis and Body Vol II.
They are sold together as a set. Found the set at Amazon for $82
Link: http://www.amazon.com/Plymouth-Chrysler-Repair-Manual-Reprint/dp/B00435J9IW/ref=sr_1_7?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1305804888&sr=1-7
I uploaded the picture of the cover. Nothing blingey, but I use my copies all the time.

Hope that helps,
Ron

GranCuda1970 · « **Reply #14 on:** May 19, 2011 - 10:09:33 AM »

Yes, there are all aluminum Indy / Mopar Performance Crate motors that have blowers or carbs they have no emmission stuff some of them are pretty big in the cubes$$$$$ over 20,000 bucks. You could get a 71 /6 car for about $7 to $15,000 swap out the K-frame or get shumacher motor mounts and mount a Mopar performance small block with a 6-pack and be pumping out 435hp for under 6000$bucks, then go to brewers or passion performance and get the 4-speed kit to row on the pistol grip under $3000. Who knows you may want a reverse valve body 727 with a B/M shifter kit. I think the Ronnie sox way is funner.

Author Topic: What to do first (Read 3659 times)

cudabeforeIdie

What to do first

MEK-Dangerfield

Re: What to do first

the_engineers

Re: What to do first

Bullitt-

Re: What to do first

cudabeforeIdie

Re: What to do first

Jesus H Chrysler

Re: What to do first

360FISH

Re: What to do first

Todd Smith

Re: What to do first

GranCuda1970

Re: What to do first

RB2929

Re: What to do first

cudabeforeIdie

Re: What to do first

Street_Challenged73

Re: What to do first

Cooter

Re: What to do first

RB2929

Re: What to do first

GranCuda1970

Re: What to do first

Author Topic: What to do *first* (Read 3659 times)

Author Topic: What to do first (Read 3659 times)