Author Topic: 3-point rear belts (Read 11757 times)

walkAbout · « **Reply #30 on:** June 01, 2014 - 04:43:13 PM »

Peeps, everything finished and very satisfied. Simple and strong plus original look. I like it. Here my pics from yesterday when I put everything together for those who want to be inspired.

CU

walkAbout

Katfish · « **Reply #31 on:** June 01, 2014 - 05:05:02 PM »

Well done, looks factory!

AU6pack · « **Reply #32 on:** June 01, 2014 - 06:15:50 PM »

They look much better than mine.

Want to make another set and sell me a pair???

walkAbout · « **Reply #33 on:** June 02, 2014 - 04:41:58 PM »

Thanks. It was my goal to have it look factory. OK, 71 belts in a 70 car, but the same like in front. Got the new repros for the front seats (without the retractable belts near the door sill) on ebay.com, used the short belt on the outside from the former mounted lap belts and only had to add the 2 assy's.

AU6pack: Could ask the guy who made the 2 assy's but I think it's easier to let them build on your side. I told him before, that he could do more...

I can provide the measurements I've made, but all in metrics.

CU

walkAbout

dutch · « **Reply #34 on:** June 02, 2014 - 05:21:34 PM »

shawge · « **Reply #35 on:** June 08, 2014 - 02:09:29 PM »

Great job, looks fantastic!

shawge · « **Reply #36 on:** June 09, 2014 - 10:00:33 AM »

walkAbout, I forgot to ask - do you have dimensions and thickness of the plates used?

walkAbout · « **Reply #37 on:** June 15, 2014 - 04:39:46 PM »

Here is my drawing with all the measurements for the original design like in the drawing from 1969. It took me a couple days, but it was worth... ALL SIZES ARE METRIC MILLIMETERS, so you have to convert them.
Originally I wanted to have the base plate in 1.5-2mm steel plate and bended like in the original drawing plus the square raising on top. The guy who made it, he is also a classic car freak, decided just to make a square metal plate of 6mm thickness and put the square raising one top. Easy as seen on TV.

Got a kids seat, fixed it, and we have had the first drive yesterday with our almost 1 year cutie.

CU

walkAbout

whitewatersky · « **Reply #38 on:** July 02, 2015 - 10:31:36 PM »

Quote from: shawge on September 29, 2013 - 05:44:20 PM

Here's the engineering drawing, circle Y shows the details

hey guys, thanks for this great thread.

I'm also looking at eventually putting the shoulder belts in back

note the part numbers showing for part E
"reinf assy-rear seat shoulder belt shelf panel"

3454584-5
3454578-9

probably a stupid question, but is this likely to be a part that is available from one of today's suppliers ?

seems it could be a good part for someone to make available... unless most of the cars have been done already...

I haven't found it in my googling, but ya never know...

walkAbout · « **Reply #39 on:** July 03, 2015 - 04:06:52 PM »

Quote from: whitewatersky on July 02, 2015 - 10:31:36 PM

I haven't found it in my googling, but ya never know...

Sure, either wait or do it yourself like I did. You saw the pics above. I also wanted it ready to buy...

CU

walkAbout

Katfish · « **Reply #40 on:** July 03, 2015 - 05:14:52 PM »

Quote from: walkAbout on June 15, 2014 - 04:39:46 PM

Here is my drawing with all the measurements for the original design like in the drawing from 1969. It took me a couple days, but it was worth... ALL SIZES ARE METRIC MILLIMETERS, so you have to convert them.
Originally I wanted to have the base plate in 1.5-2mm steel plate and bended like in the original drawing plus the square raising on top. The guy who made it, he is also a classic car freak, decided just to make a square metal plate of 6mm thickness and put the square raising one top. Easy as seen on TV.

Got a kids seat, fixed it, and we have had the first drive yesterday with our almost 1 year cutie.

CU

walkAbout

Out of curiosity, why the slot in the mounting piece below the raised threaded portion?

whitewatersky · « **Reply #41 on:** July 03, 2015 - 09:46:04 PM »

Thanks mate... Yeah I figured you'd have looked far n wide. Ya never know what might turn up tho. We will make good use of your drawings when we get there. Thanks heaps

walkAbout · « **Reply #42 on:** July 06, 2015 - 03:56:10 PM »

Quote from: Katfish on July 03, 2015 - 05:14:52 PM

Out of curiosity, why the slot in the mounting piece below the raised threaded portion?

I thought the same, but! Look the second picture above (mine). There are holes, where the screws for the rear side panels go through. My guess is, just to let them go through the holes in the package tray.

Edit: I remember. Not only my guess. I have had little problems to let the screws go through. They just came out at the border of my base plate and it was hard to get the screws through.

CU

walkAbout

walkAbout · « **Reply #43 on:** July 06, 2015 - 04:08:16 PM »

Quote from: whitewatersky on July 03, 2015 - 09:46:04 PM

Thanks mate... Yeah I figured you'd have looked far n wide. Ya never know what might turn up tho. We will make good use of your drawings when we get there. Thanks heaps

Welcome! That's the power of the internet. Without the original drawing I wouldn't have any idea how to get this done. Then the guy who made it changed it to a thick base plate and put the raised threaded portion on top of it. TOP. Let's see what the German TUEV will say this month or if he even notice it.

CU

walkAbout

Katfish · « **Reply #44 on:** July 06, 2015 - 04:13:40 PM »

Great work, thanks for the info