Minimum Tool Set Engine rebuild
Engine Stand: Even if you're building just one engine, make this purchase. Having overhauled an engine or two on the garage floor, it's just not worth it. Quality stands are relatively inexpensive - key features are a weight rating of 1000lbs. and 4 wheels. And if its a Mopar motor consider the best stand money can buy
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Basic hand tools: A good set of 3/8" and 1/2" drive sockets and get both 6-pt and 12-pt,and it doesnt hurt to have some 3/4" sizes as well for those real tight ones along with a breaker bar. - note that most ARP fasteners use 12-point nuts - along with a pretty standard collection of wrenches, pliers, etc. A center punch and inexpensive numbered punch set for marking parts for machine shop identification and re-installation in the correct location is required. A large screwdriver or prybar is needed to leverage the crank forward/aft to check end-play.
Feeler gauges: A good quality feeler gauge reading approximately .0015 to .035.
Torque wrench(es): The range of torque settings on the small-block mopar is about 20 - 90lbs ft; this range may require two wrenches. There is a lot of debate over "beam" type wrenches vs. dial or digital wrenches, but unless you simply cannot afford a digital wrench the beam type should be avoided.
Fastener Torque Thread Size
Camshaft Lockbolt 35 7/16-14
Carburetor to Manifold Nut 7 5/16-24
Clutch Housing Bolt 30 3/8-16
Connecting Rod Nut - Plain 45 3/8-24
Crankshaft Bolt (Vibration Damper) 135 3/4-16
Cylinder Head Bolt 273-318 85 1/2-13
Cylinder Head Bolt 340-360 95 1/2-13
Flywheel Cover Bolt 100 in/lbs 1/4-20
Flywheel Housing to Block Bolt 50
Flywheel to Crankshaft Bolt 55 7/16-20
Fuel Pump to Block 30 3/8-16
Intake Manifold Bolt 35 3/8-16
Main Bearing Cap Bolt 85 1/2-13
Oil Pan Drain Plug 20 1/2-20
Oil Pan Bolt 15 5/16-20
Oil Pump Cover Bolt 95 in/lbs 1/4-20
Oil Pump to Block Bolt 35 3/8-16
Rocker Shaft Bolt 30 3/8-16
Spark Plug 30 14mm
Timing Cover Bolt (cast) 30 3/8-16
Torque Converter to Flexplate Bolt 270 in/lbs 5/16-24
Vibration Damper Pulley Bolt 200 in/lbs 5/16-20
Water Pump to Block Bolt 30 3/8-16
Thread cleaning taps: It is extremely important to clean all threaded holes to prevent debris from the threads entering the engine as well as to ensure accurate torque readings. You can purchase individual cleaning taps. And buy high quality ones.
Vernier Caliper: This will be your basic measuring tool for the overhaul.
Ring expander: Piston rings must be expanded to fit over the piston. You can do this by hand...but the chances of breaking a ring make this inexpensive purchase worthwhile.
Ring compressor: There are two basic types of ring compressors; adjustable and fixed. Adjustable compressors use a flexible steel band that is tightened around the piston to compress the rings. They will fit a wide range of bore sizes but must be used with care to avoid breaking rings. Fixed compressors are a tapered aluminum bore to a specific size. These work better...but are more expensive and fit only one size.
Pre-oiler: Pre-oiling the engine before starting is critical to avoid a "dry start".
Precision straight-edge: This measuring tool when used with the feeler gauge can help you determine if you need to machine your block deck or heads, and determine if the crank bore is straight.
Engine cleaning brushes: Washing the block after machining is one of your most important tasks. You'd think everything would come back spotless from the machine shop, but it absolutely does not!
Balancer tool: Harmonic balancers must be removed and installed correctly to avoid damage to the crankshaft or the balancer.
Plastigauge: This one is likely to cause the most discussion and debate. Plastigauge is a thin plastic string that expands in a "precision" way when compressed and is used for checking bearing clearance. It is definitely not the most accurate way to check these clearances but if you are not able to invest in micrometers or a bore gauge it will deliver readings close enough for a street engines making <= 1 HP/CID if used carefully. Typically, overhaul "kits" from Sealed Power and other vendors will come with Plastigauge but it is also available at NAPA and other parts sources.
Rod bolt protectors: During rod installation it's important to protect the crank rod journal from being scratched by the rod bolts. Two 4" lengths of 3/8 fuel line tubing works fine for this, but there are very cheap aftermarket solutions as well.
Letter/Number Stamps: Some parts such as rod caps and main bearing caps must be kept together, and you'll want to mark everything you take to the machine shop with an identifying mark. Also, it's sometimes helpful to mark clearances, deck height, etc. on the block for future overhauls. These stamps are an easy way to do this.
Lint-Free Shop Rags: In general you CANNOT use standard red shop rags during overhaul. They leave lint behind that can cause problems later. Your safest bet are the new disposable paper shop towels.
Chemicals
These are the liquid "tools" needed for assembly. Note the absence of anything alcoholic
Medium-strength thread-locker (Loctite "BLUE")
High-strength thread locker (Loctite "RED)
Thread sealant
Anti-sieze
Cam lube: Your cam will come with a chintzy packet of this stuff, but it is not enough
Engine Lubricate :is needed some lithium grease will be good
WD-40 is used to keep machined surfaces lubricated and free of rust.
Brake Cleaner Brake cleaner is a strong solvent that evaporates quickly. This is a great cleaner when you must have "clean and dry" - for example, bearing saddles in the block, caps and rods before bearing installation.
Acetylene/Oxygen: It comes in handy to have a good torch set as well . For many different reasons]
These tools increase the accuracy of your measurements, allow further checks on the tolerances and allow you to complete more operations you would otherwise need to rely on the machine shop to complete. If you can afford these tools they do allow you to build more powerful engines.
Micrometers: Ensure you purchase a set with a vernier to allow readings to .0001.
Depth Micrometer
Dial indicator and magnetic base
Telescoping or "snap" gauges: Transfers inside diameter measurements to outside micrometers. Not as accurate as the bore gauge below, but also not as expensive.
Bore Gauge: This is definitely the "bling" of the overhaul tool set. Absolutely not required for the backyard re-builder, but if you plan on doing a few engines a year it's worthy of consideration as it significantly increases both the speed and accuracy of bore measurements. It should be paired with a bearing micrometer.
Valve Spring compressor: This tool allows you to disassemble/assemble your own heads, and temporarily remove valve springs for checks.
Crank socket: This tool makes turning the crank easier and ensures no damage to the crank which is a tremendous help considering the number of times you'll be turning the crankshaft.
Camshaft degree kit: Although not required at the basic build level, this tool becomes important as lift (and HP) increases. This kit also includes a crank socket above.
Cam holder: Installing the cam can be done by either temporarily installing the cam sprocket or by installing long bolts to provide a grip. There are nice handles available for this as well.
This is a pretty good start but I am sure there are a few more things I overlooked, but this should get your engine assembled .
Bodywork tools
air tools ,sanders , DA'S , Paint guns ect..
Sandpaper (from 60 to 600 grit)
Hammer
Dollys or dent-pulling tools
High-build primers
Bondo body filler
Finishing putty
Glazing compound
Metal cutting tools
Welding equipment helmet , gloves ect..
Mig welder
Grinder
Torch Acetylene/Oxygen
Respirators
Wax and grease remover solven
Patience
should be a good start on bodywork