SE overhead console problem

[Matt70]

My overhead console lights are being weird. They have not worked since I got the car. I pulled the console light panel and started checking them out to see if I could find the issue. Well just pulling the bulbs and putting them back in got it working.

Problem- With key out and door open "door ajar" and "seat belt" lights stay on. Is this normal?

When I open the door both "door ajar" and "seat belt" light come on. I'm pretty sure that is not supposed to happen.
The lights do go off when door is closed after 20 seconds, should it take that long I would think the "door ajar" would be instant?

Any help would be appreciated thanks,  Matt

[Chryco Psycho]

sounds right but my car is not close to check , the door switch is delayed I believe , I can't remember where the seatbelt switch is though

[Matt70]

Great thanks Chryco, should they have power with the key out and door open? That seemed odd.  Thanks,  Matt

[Chryco Psycho]

they definatly bypass the key circuit .

[Matt70]

Cool thanks!   

[70 383 SE]

My car is still in the trailer but when I get time I will check it out and let you know.   

[Matt70]

Thanks, I worry they stay on so long w/ key out and door open, those lights get very hot and I'm afraid it will melt the console lens. Are there any modern bulbs that don't generate so much heat?     Thanks for the help

[Giveitawack]

Thanks, I worry they stay on so long w/ key out and door open, those lights get very hot and I'm afraid it will melt the console lens. Are there any modern bulbs that don't generate so much heat?

Heat is surely a problem. I have seen burned lenses. LEDs are great for the overhead console. They use almost all of the energy for the light. The LEDs I have bought have one problem, though. There is a plastic collar that is too big for the tubes.
Has anyone seen LED bulbs without this collar?

[Matt70]

What do you do file down the edges of the bulb?

[Giveitawack]

I have tried to grind the edge but it is easy to damage the bulb. I am still looking for a LED that fits the tubes.

[sublime r/t se]

sounds right but my car is not close to check , the door switch is delayed I believe , I can't remember where the seatbelt switch is though

When Got my SE, none of the overhead console lamps worked.  The door ajar (DA) and seat belt (SB) lamps are independent of each other.  If they are both on at the same time, they are just bridged.   

The SB lamp is controlled by a timer device and will shut off after 20-30 seconds after the last door is closed.  There is nothing to do with the belts being fastened (ie: a switch controlled by a retractor or buckle) that controls the SB lamp, purely a timer.  One of the terminals of the dome lamp pin switch in each door jamb controls the SB lamp.

The DA lamp is controlled by a separate pin switch in the trailing edge of the door jamb.  I had to replace mine and keeping these adjusted is a pain in the arse.  If not adjusted right, the DA lamp will stay lit.   The wiring on the switches then run up to the console and apply ground for the lamp.  It sounds like it would be these switches and the wiring that need to be attended-to to get the DA lamp to work appropriately.

I dont know if your low fuel lamp works or not.  Mine didn't .  I had to get a new relay and once installed, the low fuel lamp worked perfect.

[Matt70]

sublime r/t se, thanks for the info. No my low fuel light does not work. Where is that relay located? Also where did you get the replacement? Have you had heat issues with these bulbs staying on so long? Do you know where to find LED replacements? Wow that's a lot of questions       Thanks,  Matt

[Slotts]

Hey Matt,

I might have a low fuel relay. I'll take a look and let you know. The case is shaped like like a large version of a 12 to 5 gauge voltage limiter with a mounting arm.

Slotts

[sublime r/t se]

sublime r/t se, thanks for the info. No my low fuel light does not work. Where is that relay located? Also where did you get the replacement? Have you had heat issues with these bulbs staying on so long? Do you know where to find LED replacements? Wow that's a lot of questions       Thanks,  Matt

No problem.  I am not a auto electrical technician by any means.  I believe in trial and error, a wiring diagram, some jumpers and a test light.  That is all you need to get this type of stuff to work.

The low fuel relay is located on the very far edge of the lower end, passenger side of the dashboard.  It is a lot easier to get at if you take out the cardboard glove compartment box.  The wiring from the fuel sender runs through this relay and then sends signals to the fuel gauge and the low fuel lamp.  You will have to find a NOS relay. Not too hard to find because these relays were on a lot of cars, especially C Bodies. 

I checked the continuity on the wiring to the lamp before I changed out the relay.  Once I did the lamp worked perfect.  You will know it's working because it comes on when the ignition is switched on and then swithces off when the gauge starts to sweep to full. 

Let me know if  you have other questions.   Once again, a total layperson's view.

[spamtank]

sublime r/t se, thanks for the info. No my low fuel light does not work. Where is that relay located? Also where did you get the replacement? Have you had heat issues with these bulbs staying on so long? Do you know where to find LED replacements? Wow that's a lot of questions       Thanks,  Matt

My low fuel light works too well.  It stays on all the time.  I tried replacing the relay, but that didn't improve the situation.  It has been on for 1/2 hour to 45 minute trips.  I've probably got about 15 trips like this with another 15 trips of 15 minutes or so.  That has to add up to about 10 hours of operation.  They must heat up pretty quick.  I have not noticed any discoloration or warping of the lens yet. 

But now you guys have me worried.  I'm going to look into taking the bulb out this weekend. 

I might try to make some of my own LED replacement bulbs up.  I should be able to gut an existing bulb and then replace it with a 12V LED.  Then I'll pot that with RTV or non-conductive epoxy.  I'll let you know how that works.