After owning severla Gran Coupes & once installing a overhead console headliner in a winter beater 1972 Cuda back in 1985, I know these consoles are one of the coolest things Mopar had in E-bodies. Whatever anyone thinks, I plan on putting one in my 73. Be sure that all of your wires are intact & nothing is loose or shoddy repaired. make sure your gray ground wire is attached to your header under the headliner by your mirror. The Door Ajar & Seat Belt light work on your time delay relay for about 20 seconds & turn off after the door is closed. Your door ajar switch is located on the rear door post below the striker. These are not repoped & are an absolute ***** to find. I once used one from a 1985 slider door from a caravan which worked for a while but it busted off & I used another one at one time. The seat belt light just works along with the door ajar light for the same time frame. As for the Low Fuel relay, its a squar thing like attached behind to the right of your glove box liner with 4 wires to it. Make its its grounded as well. If you ever need to find anothe ron eof these, try looking in some C bodies, like a Polara from 71-74. Go under the dash right in the middle, underside lip & look for a brighter silver like screw, removed that screw & them run your hand up under that part of the dash & locate the loose part. Its the low fuel relay & its the same hook-up as an E-body, most likely you will save yourself lots of $ if you find one of these at a junkyard near you. Pull it downwards & remove the harness to it. Now you have a spare. Your low fuel light turns on after your cars' gauge falls below 1/4 tank, sometimes at 1/4, sometimes at 1/8 tank, the light will start to glow lightly & flash, then after a few minutes, the light will glow fully telling you to make a pit stop & fill your E-body up! If your gas gauge in the dash is faulty, your light will stay on. if your gas gauge in the tank doe NOT have the small ground strap on the fuel sending unit to the fuel line (like its missing or rusted away, I've seen both) this light will stay on & your gauge will not read at all! Been here & done that!. Make sure your tank unit works as well. Once I put a wire on the sender unit & just used a small hose clamp on the tube, tightened it slightly & ran the other end up to a ground & put on a screw to test it. Its worked fine, even though its a shade-tree test. But it worked for me. Now, I would install either new bulbs & clean out those light sockets as well, they are what, 40 years old now, so clean them up. I used in my overhead console light bulbs number 53, used in the dash lights of 70-71 Barracuda standard dash light bars, they are smaller but they worked for me & did not getas hot as the 1892 number bulbs. Another thing to concider is that these lenses were not made to last forever. Get a replacement on moparts.com for that guy who offers them for $18 shipped. Why have a melted lens? Thats all I can think of for now, after all I did alot of these when I was 19-20, so taking these apart for trial & error was simple, but I did what I could to make them work. One more piece of advise, if you need a dome light for your car, try looking in 1970-1974 C-bodies, this SAME dome light with the flip-type switch is in these cars & sometimes not. I found a perfect one in a 71 Monaco back in 1988 & it fit 125% perfect into my car at the time. Just be damn careful when you remove it, I just use a forefinger behind the domelight in the center, push through the headliner some to find a small notch on the underside of the dome light & pull it downward. This worked everytime I found one in one of these cars. Don't use a screwdriver, you can always slip & you'll be pi$$ed if you bust it apart.
Did this help you any? I could go on all night about my journeys with overhead consoles, but hey, thats what this is about, helping you get yours right!
