Reworking Dana 60 truck Axle for 70 Chally

[Todd Smith]

I took apart a Dana out of a Ferd truck that had full floating axles. Pic. 1 shows the extensions for the FF axles. Next I clamped 2 paint sticks to the backing plate flanges so I could get a good measurement.
Pic. 2 shows it to be 11/16ths of an inch short of the 54 15/16 for a "B" body rear. (I have Dr. Diffs 1 inch spring locater's.) I don't see the 11/16 as a problem if that's the total shortage.

The 3 things I don't know are,
How the extensions for the FF axles are removed.
The detentions of the Mopar ends that need to go on.
Can I grind off the weld that holds the ford end and slip it off?

If I have to cut the ends off, I more than likely SCREWED.

Sure could use some advise short of new axle tubes.
Any Ideas or did I just burn a $100.00 bill on a rear that won't work?

Thanks

[Chryco Psycho]

I have done a lot of these , you need to cut the tube to remove the flange & the FF end , likely you will end up with the tubes too short to be workable , I had to replace both tubes as they ended up too short to use after cutting the ford ends off & weld on the Dodge ends , what I did though was use the ford tapered roller brg ends as it is better than the green brg , & I ordered new axles , we had a jig to keep the housing straight as we welded in the new tubes & housing ends , we used tig to get the the best weld for the new housing ends

[Topcat]

Re building/modifying diffs are new to me. Interested in your project how it comes along.

[Todd Smith]

I have done a lot of these , you need to cut the tube to remove the flange & the FF end , likely you will end up with the tubes too short to be workable , I had to replace both tubes as they ended up too short to use after cutting the ford ends off & weld on the Dodge ends , what I did though was use the ford tapered roller brg ends as it is better than the green brg , & I ordered new axles , we had a jig to keep the housing straight as we welded in the new tubes & housing ends , we used tig to get the the best weld for the new housing ends

Chryco,
I knew, if any one was going to have the answer, it was gona be you   The problem is, you did not read my post correctly. Your assignment was to come up with a solution that did not involve NEW AXEL TUBES 
What did you do for break backing plates? Did you go with Ferd plates and drums? It's bad enough I have a Ferd housing touching my Mopar!!!! 

Wish I had the $$ to just call Dr. Diff and have one shipped

[acudanut]

Dana, makes Dana...Not Ford..Also there are plenty of Dodge Trucks out there with Dana's in them also..
I can't give my Dana 60 away (from a 73 Dodge 3/4 ton)
BTW could I get different axles for this rear end   How much...I am looking for a 4 1/2 bolt pattern.

[Chryco Psycho]

Actually I did read your post correctly , you might be able to stretch the housing if you chain the housing to a light post & hook a cummins to the other end you should be able to pull the light post down on the Cummins truck !!  Don't use the light post in front of your house so you don't get caught !!
 If you want a slightly narrower housing you might get away without new tubes you could compensate with different offset wheels or move the springs in as well , , I wanted a stock diff replacement & the tubes came up too short , we had to swap in new tubes . My friend & i have built 30 + danas from ford diffs from the wreckers but this was the first stock width one we had built & it was just to short once the ends were trimmed off , I also did a diff for my 71 Charger & it is slightly wider than the Chall diff . My diff for the chall turned into a nightmare , we used the ford taper roller brgs for the first time so I special ordered the ends  & brgs , then ordered the axles from Strange , we were told Strange didn't have the ford ends or brgs , after ordering the axles found out we could order the ends & brgs installed & could have saved a bunch of $$ that way , the pinion seal failed as soon as it was installed , the yolk pinched the spring !! I powder caoted the housing & they cahrged double what I was quoted , the diff should have come in under $1000 & cost close to 1800 said & done , I should have just ordered one from Dr Diff !!
 The backing plates are just std Mopar ones , the housing ends use the Mopar 5 bolt flange with the Ford Brg so I used normal Mopar 5 bolt backing plates & 10 " drums , they use the same backing plates on all Moper diffs , the 8 1/4 uses a 4 bolt end flange but still uses the 5 bolt backing plates

[acudanut]

Chryco, "can I get different axles for this rear end ..How much...I am looking for a 4 1/2 bolt pattern"

[Chryco Psycho]

Dana, makes Dana...Not Ford..Also there are plenty of Dodge Trucks out there with Dana's in them also..
I can't give my Dana 60 away (from a 73 Dodge 3/4 ton)
BTW could I get different axles for this rear end   How much...I am looking for a 4 1/2 bolt pattern.

The ford diff uses the Mopar race U bolt style yolk , the Mopar Danas use the small yolk , never could understand that , you can buy a whole used Dana for $100 from a wrecker but the good yolks will run twice that much new !!
 Typically it costs $250 to narrow the housing , ends cost close to $100 , new axles with brgs are about $600 , new spring seats are $12 , if you retube the housing add $300 or so parts & labor , powder coating the housing i was quoted at $125 & came in at 245. I do lots of free advertizing for them , I am sure they coat 100s of housing so how could they be off by 95%

[acudanut]

So, "new axles with brgs are about $600 "   No wonder I can't give my Dana 60 away.

[Chryco Psycho]

So, "new axles with brgs are about $600 "   No wonder I can't give my Dana 60 away.

Typically I budget $1000- $1100 to build a dana from a truck diff as outlined above , I think Dr Diff , Strange etc charge about $1800 up for a complete diff . If you are careful you can usually get the gear ratio you want +sure grip & the HD race yolk all for $100 or so from a wrecker , Ford used the 3.73 ratio not offered by Mopar as well .
 

[Cooter]

I converted TWO 3/4 ton Dana 60 "Truck" housings to "Car" housings for under $300.00 each(Price of Dana included)....Even custom made a pinion snubber for them as well...
But, NONE of this was in any manual in a step by step procedure..There's a reason I can buy Cheap Dana 60's and get 'em under a car for cheap...Nobody else seems to want to go through the work to convert a truck rear as it seems to much work, or whatever...

I simply cut off the truck ends, welded on the Car ends along with the stock E-body and B-body brake backing plates/axles/etc...

If your looking to just BOLT everything together, then you need to take out a loan and just buy one done from Dr. Diff...However, if you have ANY welding/mechanical skills at all, and want that Dana 60 under your Car for under $500.00, you WIll find a way like eveybody else...

[Chryco Psycho]

So what did you do for the axles , 8 3/4 axles use different splines , did you weld the axles too ??
Most Dana use 35 spline , 8 3/4 used 30 

[StRoKeR]

I dont see a problem here! Ive done a couple truck dana conversions. I have one in the Dart now and had one in the Challenger! If he cuts the tubes right at the flange and the ford ends come off the moser ends are wider than those in the pics! he said he has the 1" dr diff kit which is what I used and my dana housing flange to flange was 54 5/8 and I used a 15*10 rim with 5" backspace in the chally! none of this setup rubbed on either side whatsoever driving around town! I fit a big 315/60/15 in there and I rolled the top of the lip some! so if he has smaller wheels and less backspace even better but I wanted the BIG hammers in there! What he needs to consider if he runs discs or drums 2" or 3"/rim offset on the final housing size with the new moser ends on! starting fresh with NO rear under the car put your wheels under the car centered up in the housing and measure from there factoring in the above before have a final housing flange to flange! new perches need welded in at 44" center to center! oh and my axels were $350 for 35 spline dutchmans and green bearings were $80ish off Dr Diff .....

EDIT: at 54 5/8 I believe I was using 11*3 drums factored in! but do what I posted abouve to double check.. and if those aren't 3" tubes I'd ditch it! dont use the smaller tube danas 

[Chryco Psycho]

Everything is cheaper in the US !!
 I can't even buy street axles for $350 + brgs nevermind the good race axles !!

[Chryco Psycho]

My race axles were $550 for the pair at dealer cost