Author Topic: tach (Read 3331 times)

challenger · « **on:** April 22, 2002 - 09:52:40 PM »

The tach does not work on my 70 challenger. Does anyone know where to start looking for a problem?

BIG MIKE · « **Reply #1 on:** April 22, 2002 - 10:11:42 PM »

check to see if the wire is broke on the coil.

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #2 on:** April 23, 2002 - 01:00:05 AM »

a lot of them quit & need to be rebuilt , Performance Car Graphics is supposed to be awesome at rebuilding them

camjam · « **Reply #3 on:** April 23, 2002 - 09:50:35 PM »

I had my instrument cluster rebuilt, calibrated and refurbished by APT Speedometer Specialists in Bloomington Mn 1-952-881-7095. The end result was an awsome looking instrument panel. It looks brand new. I had already rebuilt the clock using a kit which helped to keep the costs down. The one thing that I really liked about their service was that they reprint the guage information on the faces rather than using a decal.
They cost a little more but the result was worth it plus I had my instrument panel back in three weeks from when I shipped it.
Don't get me wrong I like Performance Graphics but they told me turn around was 6 months and that they use decals.

Rev-It-Up · « **Reply #4 on:** April 24, 2002 - 09:05:20 AM »

This is great info guys. We need to send ours away in the next couple of months.

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #5 on:** April 24, 2002 - 09:32:34 AM »

6 mons & decals is not Performance , Thanks for the info

camjam · « **Reply #6 on:** April 24, 2002 - 01:11:19 PM »

Remember when you disconnect your instruments number or color code each wire and contact as you remove the wire. It took me minutes to hook my instruments back up and everything worked. It took more time setting the instrument cluster in place than it did to hook up.
Did I mention that before recalibration of the tach it was out by about 1800 RPM. Now its bang on.

70RT · « **Reply #7 on:** May 01, 2002 - 03:56:26 PM »

i sent my gauges to performance car graphics on 01/01/02. �i asked if they would be finished by 05/01/02 and was told that there were no guarantees, but that it should be workable in that time frame. �i was told by e-mail today that it would be at least 1 month or longer before i get them back. �orders that were placed 9 months ago are only going out now. �i think i was not entirely told the truth by them in the first place, but at least they didn't give me some BS story about why they aren't finished. � i'm hoping the wait will be worth it. �i've heard they do fabulous work.

challenger, to answer your question, it is most likely that the tach is dead. �this is one of ma mopars items that they would like people to forget. �they were built poorly and performed the same way. �fortunately, they can be rebuilt better now than when they were new.

camjam, i hope i wasn't lied to, but i was told by dave at PCG that the faces on my gauges would be painted and not decaled. �did they tell you they use decals

camjam · « **Reply #8 on:** May 01, 2002 - 08:25:38 PM »

As I remember the one thing from my conversation with them: I don't want to have decals on the instrumentation. They basically said: There were other companies that would not use decals. So I took that to mean that they did use some form of decaling. The biggest problem for me however was that I did not want to wait 6+ months.
I saw Performances instrument restoration work at Columbus last year. They had some instruments that they had restored for various Mopars on display and one was the ebody. The instrumentation really looked super.
I knew of APT from the High Performance Mopar magazine that dedicated the whole issue to Cudas and Challengers back in July of 99. If I remember correctly the magazine was doing an e-body restoration and this was where they took their instruments to be done.
The pictures showed the instruments in various stages of the restoration. It was the next best thing to being there to see it done. It gave me the confidence to send them my instruments.
The Instrument cluster is now back in the car and functioning just as good as it looks.

71 DEPUTY · « **Reply #9 on:** May 02, 2002 - 05:00:09 AM »

in that issue it says that they paint the gauges black and then use a process that is similar to photo silk screening which reaplies the graphics using a negative from a orginal gauge.

it was a great issue from High Preformance Mopar

camjam · « **Reply #10 on:** May 02, 2002 - 08:25:50 AM »

Yea. It's one of those magaizine issues that almost deserves to be put on a pedestal to be viewed often. There was a lot of really good information and some great articles.

Rare_T_A · « **Reply #11 on:** October 10, 2002 - 11:45:42 AM »

My tach quit about 2 years ago. I bought another at a swap meet to send in so I would only have to take the dash apart once. By accident one day I bumped the wire bulkhead on the firewall and the tach started to work. If I would touch it the tack quit. Took the plug out and cleaned the terminals and two years later it still works.
Just a thought.

GregGarner · « **Reply #12 on:** November 08, 2005 - 05:33:48 PM »

If your tach does not work, you can use a voltmeter to find out if the problem is in the wiring or inside the tach.

First, start the car and let it run. Next, take a voltmeter on the DC 20V setting and measure the voltage on the long stud on the back of the tach (making sure
the black wire on the voltmeter is well grounded to the car). You should see 12V (13.5 is OK) on the long stud. If it reads 0V, then you are
not getting 12V to power the tach and you need to fix the wiring harness or fuses.

On the short stud, on the 20V DC setting, you should see something between 3V and 6V or so. If it reads 0V then the problem is that the signal is not getting from the
minus side of the coil to the short stud. Fix the wiring harness.

If both of these signals are present at the back of the tach, and the tach is properly grounded, then the tach itself is probably bad.

You can either send it out to have it repaired, or you can purchase my tach repair kit and fix it yourself. See my website for more information:

www.rt-eng.com

GregGarner
www.rt-eng.com
Home of the Mopar clock and tach repair kit

miketyler · « **Reply #13 on:** November 09, 2005 - 07:03:49 PM »

Great stuff, Greg thanks for the info. I had talked to the folks at Instrument Services Inc. http://www.clocksandgauges.com and they went into a little detail regarding their guage face restoration process. They remove all movements and instrumentation first, then prep and paint the faces. Then they either silkscreen or use peel and stick or rub-and peel decals. I havent heard of rub and peel decals in a long time - last time I saw that application was for temporary tattoos! I would imagine that properly applied, the finished product should look as good as silk-screen.

Greg - do you use flourescent orange on your needle restorations? Whats the wildest thing you have seen? Someone had told me they had seen restored instruments with the body color used for the needle color. A little over the top for me I think - could you see sublime colored needles in a sublime car?

GoMango · « **Reply #14 on:** November 09, 2005 - 08:04:11 PM »

There is also have a reproduction tach out for the e-bodies. Here's a link...

http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?cat=1

Author Topic: tach (Read 3331 times)

challenger

tach

BIG MIKE

Re: tach

Chryco Psycho

Re: tach

camjam

Re: tach

Rev-It-Up

;DRe: tach

Chryco Psycho

Re: tach

camjam

Re: tach

70RT

Re: tach

camjam

Re: tach

71 DEPUTY

Re: tach

camjam

Re: tach

Rare_T_A

Re:tach

GregGarner

Re: tach

miketyler

Re: tach

GoMango

Re: tach