Hypothetical engine build - cam and converter question

[Strawdawg]

You got an automatic or a manual behind it?

His signature says 727

[PlumCraZRT]

His signature says 727

^thanks!

I would suggest you put a 2400 stall converter in it and get a 650 cfm carb.  The reason anyone should get a smaller carb is to make more power in the lower RPMs.

Here is a good article to read: http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0508_carburetor_showdown/viewall.html

Are you happy with the cam otherwise?  Good vacuum, lope, etc?

[CUDA JAS]

^thanks!

I would suggest you put a 2400 stall converter in it and get a 650 cfm carb.  The reason anyone should get a smaller carb is to make more power in the lower RPMs.

Here is a good article to read: http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0508_carburetor_showdown/viewall.html

Are you happy with the cam otherwise?  Good vacuum, lope, etc?

Hmmmm that is a good question.  I genrally like the cam, vacuum come in around 11in, good lope (you KNOW is has more than a stock cam) and pulls preeety hard from 2500 on up.  I am running standard brakes, so vacuum is not that big of a deal, but somtimes I think better vacuum may help with the idle quality (but lets not get off track).

Given I am running a stock converter, I have often wondered how the proper converter would change things.  Currently, although there is no hesitation going from idle to part throtle, or WOT, the car will not break the tires loose, ever (but please do not tell anyone  ).

What is the stall of a factory high stall?

I have had a few people tell me the carb was too big, and some tell me that it should be fine, sooooo...If I ever see a great deal on a rebuildable 650, I may change it, maybe... .

Thanks for all the help guys. 

[Chryco Psycho]

swap the converter to a 2500 where you can feel the car pull hard & you will have a whole new car

[CUDA JAS]

swap the converter to a 2500 where you can feel the car pull hard & you will have a whole new car

Jus trevisiting an old post, now that winter is seting in.

So if I change the converter as opposed to the cam, will the engine run any differntly (I think no).

In all honesty, I think that is what I am after, a better running engine, as opposed to stronger performance.

Jason

[Chryco Psycho]

no real change to the engine other than it will idle more like it does in neutral when in gear

[CUDA JAS]

no real change to the engine other than it will idle more like it does in neutral when in gear

Meaning that the engine will not be under load?

If that is the case I would not need as much idle speed, and could close down primary throttle blades abit.  This in theory should help with my rich idle issues, as well as make the car more pleasent to drive around town.

I have the abilites and space to swap the cam or change the convertor (i know of a used 25 - 2800 convertor for sale with not much run time on it), its just a mater of which one I want to tackle and will give me the results I want/need.  Family cruising is not much fun right now with the set up as is!

Jason

[Chryco Psycho]

I would do the converter first

[PlumCraZRT]

I would do the converter first

  The car will launch much better with a higher stall converter.  If it pulls fine after ~2200+ RPM, the converter seems like the best solution.

[Chryco Psycho]

this is ignoring the fact that the factory put an 850 TQ carb on the 360 , carb is not the problem

[CUDA JAS]

  The car will launch much better with a higher stall converter.  If it pulls fine after ~2200+ RPM, the converter seems like the best solution.

Thanks for the input guys.

I am still on the fence....lots of time to decide though.  I must confess that I am not crazy about pulling apart the engine!

Like I said, I am not concerned so much about the launch...car is 100% street driven, but I do love to play. 

I just want a nice running street crusier at this point. One I can take on 300 mile trips with little problems.

Jason