Author Topic: How to build the strongest 8 3/4 rear end (Read 5619 times)

brads70 · « **on:** September 12, 2011 - 10:14:13 AM »

What parts would you recommend in " putting your best foot forward" if you are building a 8 3/4 for strength? ( Street car)
What axels? spline count?
Who's/what carrier?
Who's/what yoke?
Truetrac?
Detroit locker?
stock limited slip?

I know some will say just get a Dana 60, but I'm curious about beefing up a 8 3/4.

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #1 on:** September 12, 2011 - 10:24:22 AM »

I went down this path , , bought Strange race axles 35 spline , spool , braced the back of the housing built a 742 center section welded cap supports into the housing , used the race U bolt yolk , took my car to the track launched the car at the bottom end of the power band around 3000 rpm & chewed 37 of 43 teeth off the ring gear on the first pass .

In my duster I did the same thing , MW axles , stock sure grip , ladderbars for traction & ate a sure grip every 2 seasons
Save you $$ & Build a Dana

brads70 · « **Reply #2 on:** September 12, 2011 - 12:31:29 PM »

What about strickly street duty. No slicks?
I'm just thinking about my new engine making more power than the stock drivetrain can handle?

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #3 on:** September 12, 2011 - 12:39:53 PM »

I will tell you this it will cost more to buy all the good parts for the 8 3/4 , buy the time you get a premium carrier , gears & I would use the Eaton / Torson diff for a sure grip , buy 35 spline axles you can build a Dana for less , you will add 50 lbs of unsprung weight but the car will hook harder with the weight on the tires . Are you planning to swap gear ratios? That would be the only reason to use the 8 3/4 that I can see . A dana will/ should come with 35 spline axles stock & a clutch type sure grip & race yolk if you start with a Ford unit , it can certainly be ordered that way .

Cooter · « **Reply #4 on:** September 12, 2011 - 01:09:45 PM »

Brad, I've found that my cars see far worse driving/abuse on the street pulling holeshots in front of friends, bangin' gears, etc.
Even IF you get an 8 3/4 to live for a short while, that new stroker making 500-600 HP and torque will eventually beat to death ESPECIALLY if you run a stick, but a properly done 727 with stall and shift kit will give it hell. Street duty is ok if you have another limiting factor like racing fuel and weak engine/trans..You know as well as I that you will beat on that thing sooner or later. Better to have a Dana 60 when that time comes IMO.....

Cuda54 · « **Reply #5 on:** September 12, 2011 - 09:47:15 PM »

Where can you find a Dana 60 the right width of a b body rear end? It can be out of any thing because it will have a 4 link to install it.

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #6 on:** September 12, 2011 - 10:43:43 PM »

the ford truck diffs can be narrowed or you can have them built to spec

brads70 · « **Reply #7 on:** September 13, 2011 - 06:01:42 AM »

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on September 12, 2011 - 10:43:43 PM

the ford truck diffs can be narrowed or you can have them built to spec

I'll keep an eye out for one. What years of Ford truck are they in again? 150? 250? 350?

thedodgeboys · « **Reply #8 on:** September 13, 2011 - 06:38:50 AM »

Looks like $1895 will get you a brand new one just the way you want it
http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/072.html

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #9 on:** September 13, 2011 - 10:52:09 AM »

Doctor Diff in Poulsen MT is a little cheaper I belive & yeah you could have them built to the B body width for extra tire clearance with the offset springs .
Mid 70s - 80s ford 250 maybe 350 trucks , the webbing on the center carrier will have the 60 or 70 cast into them , stay away from the 70 , usually you can find them with a sure grip & the gear ratio you want

brads70 · « **Reply #10 on:** September 13, 2011 - 04:14:54 PM »

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on September 13, 2011 - 10:52:09 AM

Doctor Diff in Poulsen MT is a little cheaper I belive & yeah you could have them built to the B body width for extra tire clearance with the offset springs .
Mid 70s - 80s ford 250 maybe 350 trucks , the webbing on the center carrier will have the 60 or 70 cast into them , stay away from the 70 , usually you can find them with a sure grip & the gear ratio you want

Just looking on here...
http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi
I searched for a 1980 250 Ford pickup, options were a "spicer 60" is that the same thing as a Dana 60 Spicer/Dana are one in the same are they not?

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #11 on:** September 13, 2011 - 04:18:52 PM »

brads70 · « **Reply #12 on:** September 13, 2011 - 04:42:19 PM »

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on September 13, 2011 - 04:18:52 PM

yes

I just phoned around the local yards around here with no luck. Not a big pick up truck area around here. I do know were and old Dodge 67-69 truck is sitting with a floater Dana 60 in it. Would that work? Only thing is he thinks the truck is gold? It's been sitting for years all rusty etc.... came from out west has a 383 stock in it.

Where do you get the housing ends, axels etc....?

Katfish · « **Reply #13 on:** September 13, 2011 - 08:06:37 PM »

Check ebay, looks like this guy is converting the Ford rear end and they even include disc brakes.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dana-60-B-Body-Mopar-/130574301819?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e66d5ba7b

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #14 on:** September 13, 2011 - 08:11:52 PM »

Bears can supply you with axles , housing ends & the ford tapered roller brg . All strange stuff
you might get it cheaper in the US now .
most of the diffs are floaters , I have seen some no floater 60s in fords
we did a thread on modifing Danas earlier this year in theis section if you do a search for ti you may find it

Author Topic: How to build the strongest 8 3/4 rear end (Read 5619 times)

brads70

How to build the strongest 8 3/4 rear end

Chryco Psycho

Re: How to build the strongest 8 3/4 rear end

brads70

Re: How to build the strongest 8 3/4 rear end

Chryco Psycho

Re: How to build the strongest 8 3/4 rear end

Cooter

Re: How to build the strongest 8 3/4 rear end

Cuda54

Re: How to build the strongest 8 3/4 rear end

Chryco Psycho

Re: How to build the strongest 8 3/4 rear end

brads70

Re: How to build the strongest 8 3/4 rear end

thedodgeboys

Re: How to build the strongest 8 3/4 rear end

Chryco Psycho

Re: How to build the strongest 8 3/4 rear end

brads70

Re: How to build the strongest 8 3/4 rear end

Chryco Psycho

Re: How to build the strongest 8 3/4 rear end

brads70

Re: How to build the strongest 8 3/4 rear end

Katfish

Re: How to build the strongest 8 3/4 rear end

Chryco Psycho

Re: How to build the strongest 8 3/4 rear end