Did my solenoid just die??? Listen to this unbelievable story

[NCtrueconservative]

okay guys a little update for yall.  The car now has a brand new starter and a brand new starter relay.  I shorted out the two post on the relay and it cranked.  But I'm still not getting anything when I turn my key.  I had my dad take his light tester, and put the wire on the negative battery cable, and the probe on the yellow wire that goes into the starter relay, and when I turned the key, the tester did not light up....seemed it wasn't getting power?  I've heard alot of stuff about the neutral safety switch too, which I don't know that much about.  Anyway to test that?  What does it look like on the tranny?  But since the yellow wire on the relay, which I think goes to the ignition switch, isn't getting power when I turn the key, something has to be wrong with that right?  Also, I put it in neutral and let dad push the car off the ramps while I was in the car.  When I would press my brake pedal as he was pushing the car off, my dashboard lights would come on!! and the light switch wasn't even on...yet when I got back on flat ground and pushed the brake pedal, no lights. I don't know what the heck is going on. 

[Bullitt-]

Sounds like you may have some connection issues under the dash, steering column or at the firewall. Have a multimeter or at least a test light?
 
Easy way to eliminate if it is the neutral switch is to ground the terminal on the relay the dark wire goes to, that's what the NSS does is provide the ground (just be sure she's in park).

[NCtrueconservative]

another update.  I took the column support off from under the dash, and that plastic cover that covers the wires running in the column and just pulled the bundle of wires towards the steering column and the car started  but then when I put the support and covers back on and had to pull the wires back towards the firewall to get the covers bolted back on, the car wouldn't start. So i figured there was a short somewhere near the ignition.  SOOOOO, I took the steering wheel off, the crush can off and am down to the wires in the steering column, with the plastic pieces.  Everything looks good and connected, no open wires, no bad connections or anything.  So does it have to be between the wires under the steering column and the plastic pieces in your steering column where the wires end?  Also, what is the yellow wire that runs by itself to the round plastic piece that sticks out of the column right next to your emergency flashers?   

[Bullitt-]

I'd be looking at the big flat connector that comes out of the column.   

[NCtrueconservative]

I'd be looking at the big flat connector that comes out of the column.

The big gray one with all the wires coming from the column?  How would one check that with a test light?

[Bullitt-]

The big gray one with all the wires coming from the column?  How would one check that with a test light?

Yep, that's where the power comes and goes to the ignition switch.  Pretty sure red is the power in and yellow runs to the starter relay.
 


http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73ChallengerB.JPG

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1973/73ChallengerA.JPG   

[JoltinJoe]

Power is getting to the starter, but not necessarily to the relay.  I agree, the neutral tranny switch is bad or the relay is.

http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/roadside.html

Man you guys are giving me flashbacks from 20 years ago!   This article made me throw all my tools in the cuda!

[BIGSHCLUNK]

I've had column shift cars exhibit the same problems. When the body is torqued,
the shift housing sometimes can twist and not be completely in park or neutral.
Car wont start until shifter is wiggled.

Had a similar prob when I pulled my colum out to paint it.

[NCtrueconservative]

Thought I had this fixed, as I just kinda wiggled and pulled the wires in the steering column towards the steering wheel and it started fine in the fall....went to start it up the other day and it was just clicking. So I thought, maybe the battery is dead, charged it up, got in the car to start it up and had nothing. No light, no click no anything. It has happened again, I've dropped the steering column but shouldn't have done that until I get my crush can off, and now am struggling to get my steering column bolted back up so I can get my crush can off  I'm just about done with this sh!t, nothing is more frustrating when you can't even start your dang car 

[brads70]

I had mine flat bedded home last summer. Starter would not even click. To make a long story short it was the battery cable , it had the green death inside under the insulation. Ordered a new one from my local Chrysler dealer and it started right up!

[Bullitt-]

before you take it completely apart check the connector your were wiggling... a corroded or poorly seated plug could be the culprit.

[NCtrueconservative]

Will check that connector...all I have is a test light. What should make it light and when? And Brad that is interesting. My starter won't click either now, but I put my test light across the battery and on the cable ends and it had power, but I might need to check that again. Cause now that you mention it, seems like after I initially had my light on and turned the key and then the car gave up the ghost, I couldn't get any of my interior lights working. Didn't check to see if my headlights worked. Ahh back to the grindstone tomorrow

[Bullitt-]

Refer to the wiring diagrams above for power routes ... You would be much better off with a volt/ohm meter.

Have you tried shorting the starter relay?  a screwdriver across the two posts should cause the starter to crank.
If this works you need to keep looking for issues with the switch & wiring if not the problem is with the battery, cables or connectors.   

[NCtrueconservative]

I put a screw driver across the two posts on the starter relay in the engine compartment to see if it would start. Got a 'click', no jolt to me though  and then nothing. Kept trying and it wouldn't do anything

[GranCuda1970]

Try replacing the ballast resister and putting di-electric grease on that contact plug under your column. You cannot jump these made in mehico starters too many times or they will need opened up reworked. Too many clunks and they won't engage. I had this same problem with mine. Auto 3 on the tree. I replaced the starter twice, replaced the coil wire, ballast resistor, starter relay, ended up being a undervolting alternator, and bad 40 yr old wiring. 40 yrs of impedance.