Need suggestions on good engine oil

[HP2]

Brad Penn pointed out a similar concern after the article in Car Craft said they don't have enough zinc in their formula. car Craft only tested the Brad Penn break in oil, not their regular performance oil. They (BP) said too much zinc can be an inhibitor to allowing everything to create the proper wear patterns during break in. This is why break in oils have come to market in recent years. The zinc and phosporus are actually extreme pressure, consumable chemicals that save excessive wear on the valve train comonents. This is why some mild street builds can live fine on SM rated oils while a more aggresive, high lift, tight squeeze motor can eats itself up on the same oil.

[BIGSHCLUNK]

I have been running VR-1.... but bough a crap load on sale awhile back so.......

[4 speed fish]

Amsoil will  lower your oil temp which is why it is popular in motorcycles.

[footin70rt]

I had a Red Line rep several years ago give me 1/2 a case to try in my motorhome. I saw a drop in running temp on the highway. That sold me on synthetic oils. I run Red Line in everything now( helps I can still get a good deal). On last 2 engines I broke in 1 used conventional SM oil with lucas break in additive (stock inline 6 Ford) and the 512 I just build I used Joe Gibbs break in oil. Both have had no problems. 

[70 RAG TOP]

I have a freshly rebuilt 383 with low oil pressure(approx 10psi @900-950 rpm idle). my question is, would a heavier weight oil such as 10w50 or 20w50 help with the pressure by not thinning as much when it gets hot?

[Super Blue 72]

Sorry, but just to add to the topic (plus I don't know any better)..

So what about using good old 10w-40 oil like they did in the old days?    No good? 

[Chryco Psycho]

the new pollution stds set by government have reduced the criticaol additives from any oil that meet the SM SAE std , definatly not good for older engines & governments want older cars off the road any way so you can support the Automaker bailouts , & reduce pollution

[footin70rt]

We are starting to see the SAE SN rated oil out here, The EPA has figured out a way to get more of the extreme pressure additives out of the oil.

[msbaugh]

I've got regular quaker state 30w oil in mine since I don't run my car in colder weather (If it will ever get cold here in Texas). Im sure this would be fine, although I don't think it's Sl certified most likely the newest Sn, is that bad?

[Strawdawg]

I would use Valvoline racing, or one of the many other oils that have a larger dose in them.  If I recall correctly, straight wt oils don't fall under the regulations so you should be able to pull up a product sheet and see how much it has in it.  I think the regs are for multiweight 30s and lighter, but, that does not mean one is necessarily safe with a straight weight without checking

[msbaugh]

I looked on their website and found that the quaker state advanced durability 30w oil is API Sn certified, but I've also read that Sn will work with older vehicles, is this true? Next time I get the chance I'm going to put some of the valvoline VR1 straight 30W in there, better safe than sorry!

[Strawdawg]

If it is SN, then it must be low on zinc so I would drain it and change it....

[Locomotion]

I looked on their website and found that the quaker state advanced durability 30w oil is API Sn certified, but I've also read that Sn will work with older vehicles, is this true? Next time I get the chance I'm going to put some of the valvoline VR1 straight 30W in there, better safe than sorry!

Just a suggestion, but even though you don't drive in the cold, I believe a multi-weight 10w-30 or 15w40 would serve you better. Faster circulation on initial start-up, easier to pump and less windage friction. I think 20w-50 is just too heavy, but I'm biased due to my racing mind-set. Higher zinc content oil is still a good idea.
The new oil may "work with older vehicles", but with drawbacks. The 10% alcohol in unleaded gas "works in older vehicles" but reduces fuel mileage and doesn't like rubber. I'm sure that's what swelled up the rubber line in my few year old generator and started a leak.  (This can get political, but I won't go there.) The newer oils likely don't protect as well. Remember, many cars now, particularly performance cars, have roller lifters, not flat tappets.

[MEK-Dangerfield]

We've had a few threads on this issue. The C1-4+ rating is what to look for in whatever oil you choose. I use Amsoil 10W-40 myself.

They also make a zinc additive that allows you to use any oil. I have no experience with it, but I thought I would throw it out there...

     http://zddplus.com/

[msbaugh]

 So what about the valvoline vr1 synthetic? What Are the benifits vs regular vr1 10w-30? They both say that it's good for flat tappets, also the synthetic has 1400 zddp rating