Help needed with new carb

[PlumCraZRT]

i have no idea what the timing is, the PO who built the enigne didnt install anything that shows timing on the balancer... which is pretty stupid.
ive just marked some settings on the distributor that have been working for me. who knows they could be 180* off but i did have the thing driving around semi decent a few weeks ago with the old carb.

 


any ways, battery is charged up and im going out for round 2 today. hopefully i can get it started up and go from there. as of now i know i have my butterflies open too much so im going to close them per the manual and set the ifr's 2.5 turns (which is the middleish) and make adjustments from there. if it starts!

The car wouldn't start if you were 180 deg off.  It would be coughing out the carb in a big way...

Again, I would put the PV and jets back the way they were.  Check a plug if you can.

Your approach is good about resetting the idle mixture screws and butterflies, as those should be about the only thing operating on the idle circuit.

[The4ork]

i pulled all the plugs out, after looking at the first i thought it would be best to pull them all. they were wet and gunky. also they were bosch platinums. i Fing hate those plugs! i dont know why people keep buying them, there in every used car ive ever owned! they are HORRIBLE plugs. they run like poop and make everything ping. those and the ngk 3 prongs!
i put brand new 8 champion copper plugs gapped to .035 with some boot grease (new msd boots are a pita to snap in place) also got my optima replaced today, it was bad. free replacement at autozone my charger says its only 80% charged so ive had it on the charger while i swapped the plugs.

i tried bypassing the coil resistor but im going to put it back i have no spark now. im gonna go check my fueses and see if i blew one, maybe i put the wires backwards. who knows. grabbing my multimeter and test light too. be back with an update later!

[The4ork]

doh! i think i have a coil failure. i have no spark. must have been when i tried bypassing the ballast resistor. that was dumb. thought it would give me more power in my spark. the spark was looking a little brown when i tested it (cold, too much resistance?)

anywho... its a msd coil. gonna run across the street to autozone and pick up a new one. ill be using the ballast resistor this time. although im tempted to get a 6a box

[PlumCraZRT]

doh! i think i have a coil failure. i have no spark. must have been when i tried bypassing the ballast resistor. that was dumb. thought it would give me more power in my spark. the spark was looking a little brown when i tested it (cold, too much resistance?)

anywho... its a msd coil. gonna run across the street to autozone and pick up a new one. ill be using the ballast resistor this time. although im tempted to get a 6a box

I would get the car running then worry about improving it.  Glad you figured out the plugs were bad.  If you bypass the ballast, your coil won't last very long.  It gets bypassed during starting (when you turn it over), but that shouldnt last too long.

[The4ork]

its a blaster 3 coil so i thought it could take it. nowhere in the instructions for my old blaster 2 did i have to wire in a ballast, and after checking their site you dont need one for the blaster3 either... however. this is where i messed up. i have a mallory 9000 unilite distributor, which requires a ballast resistor (that was why i (had) one installed) and when i removed it i think i have shorted the unilite out.
and unfortunately i cant find a replacement module locally so im overnight one from jegs, i had a $40 gift card so why not.

*SIGH* oh i also got a streetfire box. so i have to wire ----+12v(switched acc)&+12v(cranking)------streetfire-------~resistor~------mallory

pain in the butt. did some reading online and found there is no *real* +12v that stays on while cranking, so the fix is to wire both +12v acc and +12v crank together for an msd sytle box.

im tempted to cancel my order and just get a msd distributor so its plug and play with my box but o well

[Chryco Psycho]

you do not want to wire to accessory , at the ballast there is a blue & brown wire , wire those two together , the brown is the start wire

[The4ork]

thats what i meant. i tested them with a test light. one comes on when the key is turned, then goes off when the starter is engaged. the other is off all the time but on when the starter is engaged. so i wired them together to power the streetfire and the distributor.

the color of the wire doesnt matter in my case anymore because they have been spliced before. but one splice goes to a brown wire from the firewall - cant find a blue wire anywhere

[The4ork]

ok after several days of troubleshooting i found i had a bad unilite module in my distributor. i added a power filter and a new module, and while i was at it wired up a new msd 6a ignition and changed my plugs to some stock champions (had bosch platinums) and now its firing up!

i have the butterflies in the carb reset, my fast idle was high, and the screw was interfering with the butterflies closing all the way so i backed it out a full turn. hopefully that wasnt too much, its a pain to readjust. also the mixture screws are all 1 full turn out, in is lean, out is rich... and since its been pretty rich all the time i figured id set them at a more lean setting... the manual says to ideally have the screws between 1 and 2 -1/2 full turns with the butterlies closed, at highest vacum, at the correct rpm.
shwew, mouthfull.

i started the motor up and it woulnt stay lit without throttle, it was idling pretty rough. im guessing because of the cam. i got out and unscrewed the screws 1/4 turn on all 4 screws to see if it was starving for gas. no pops or backfires or anything. didnt get to check vac "hg
unfortunately it was pissing gas out of the carb after the motor shut down. WTH causes this? this is not the first time or first carb i have seen do this. very annoying! now its flooded and wont start!!!!

also, as a side note. i have a fuel pressure regulator installed set at 4.5PSI and i have my floats set on the lower of the 3 lines per the manual for a street car.

[BB73Challenger]

I also had a Demon ( proper name.. I did eventually "exercise" it from my car ) that had a VERY similar problem.

Constant flooding, did alot of the same thing, crank the idle screws closed, added a regulator, continued to lower floats, on and on.

It got to the point I said enough and pulled it off and pulled the fuel bowls.
The float has a tab that as it rises pushes the needle into the orifice so as to stop fuel flow.
Well, the tab was not bent correctly ( mind you this was a new from the box carb that I had never taken apart )
so even with the float in a full bowl/closed needle position, the needle was not & would not seat to close off the flow.
After a quick "tweaking" and reassembly, we were set.

I know it's not an option for all, but the straw that broke the camel's back for me was when I had the throttle set-up to open WOT when the gas peddle was fully depressed the linkage on the carb would do as I can best describe as a "flip" and lock the linkage in a WOT condition.
You can guess my surprise & anger after that. 

Good luck 

[Chryco Psycho]

sounds like the same issue or a stuck needle & seat flooding the carb , ,remove the needle assy & clean it out , re-installit & set ti & try again .