Author Topic: 1973 cuda BB conversion  (Read 3143 times)

Offline edl94

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1973 cuda BB conversion
« on: November 10, 2011 - 11:11:44 PM »
Just considering my options stroker or big block. Other than mounts and the tranny what does it take to convert a 1973 cuda to a 440 or 383? Suspension? Unknown problems?




Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: 1973 cuda BB conversion
« Reply #1 on: November 11, 2011 - 07:38:53 AM »
I would go to a stroker big block !
as long as the car was a V8 you just need mounts , bigger rad unless you have A/C now & have the 26 " rad , the trans from a small block will not bolt to a big block , if you are going from a 904 to a 727 or 833 the driveshaft needs to be shortened . There are water pump housing so the lower hose can go to either side , normally the big block is left side & the small block is right but the later 73 up water pump  moves the lower hose to the right side .
 Basically with the right parts everything will bolt in

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Offline edl94

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Re: 1973 cuda BB conversion
« Reply #2 on: November 11, 2011 - 09:17:37 PM »
 You make it sound so easy. The car has A/C and the larger radiator so that won't be an issue. It also has a 727 tranny so if I put back a BB 727 the drive line will work? Are the torsion bars ok or do I need larger ones? I am just doing the BB vs SB thing in my head it looks like for the horse power vs cost the BB wins.

Offline Cooter

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Re: 1973 cuda BB conversion
« Reply #3 on: November 11, 2011 - 09:38:01 PM »
Small Blocks can make huge power...BUT at a cost of Reliability. Whatever is done to make the SB make huge power, has to be done in equality to the BB therefore, leaving the SB behind always. The Stroker BB route seems to be the "Budget" friendly way to big power, yet fairly reliable.
There's a pretty good Signature on here I think that says it all when making big power.
"Cheap, Fast, Reliable, Pick 2"...

I'm thinking the SB 727 should be roughly the same in length to a BB, so driveshaft should work.
On T-bars..Depends on how you want the car to handle. Usually with the BB, MOST upgrade the T-bars to at least BB factory bars, Like an R/T would have come with.
I have run 'em both ways, but with the SB bars, the car tends to be more "Straight line" than "Cornering". There's a huge difference in my S/6 Dart with BB and S/6 T-bars and driving my GL with BB and BB T-bars. I'd go with the upgrade T-bars just to be safe.
« Last Edit: November 11, 2011 - 09:41:59 PM by Cooter »
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Offline edl94

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Re: 1973 cuda BB conversion
« Reply #4 on: November 11, 2011 - 09:55:07 PM »
I just looked up the price on torsion bars and they are only a couple hundred bucks. Looks like cheap insurance to make sure I get around a corner.

Offline PlumCraZRT

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Re: 1973 cuda BB conversion
« Reply #5 on: November 12, 2011 - 03:07:06 AM »
I just looked up the price on torsion bars and they are only a couple hundred bucks. Looks like cheap insurance to make sure I get around a corner.

If you spend the money on torsion bars, go for the "solo racing" bars.  I think they are 1.00" dia.  I was somewhat concerned they would give a hard ride with my 383, but it's not at all.  Rides real nice  :dogpile:
« Last Edit: November 12, 2011 - 03:15:41 AM by PlumCraZRT »
mmmmm.... Mopar.... *drool*

Offline brads70

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Re: 1973 cuda BB conversion
« Reply #6 on: November 12, 2011 - 07:56:50 AM »
If you spend the money on torsion bars, go for the "solo racing" bars.  I think they are 1.00" dia.  I was somewhat concerned they would give a hard ride with my 383, but it's not at all.  Rides real nice  :dogpile:

 :iagree:  Just suspension has 1" bars pretty cheap and PST usually has 1.030" bars on sale! I too have 1" bars on my car ( 440/727) and I don't find the ride harsh at all.
You will also need all the brackets for acsessories for a BB.
Brad
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Barrie,Ontario,Canada
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Offline edl94

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Re: 1973 cuda BB conversion
« Reply #7 on: November 12, 2011 - 01:55:12 PM »
What about the Mopar Performance P5249159 1" bars? $164.00 at Jegs. I have also found a complete mildly built 440 with low milage 30000 with everything on it alt, power steering pump etc.. for $1200.00 the guy swapped it out for some hot crate motor. It has a mild cam is very clean and came out of a show quality car. Is $1200.00 a good price?

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: 1973 cuda BB conversion
« Reply #8 on: November 12, 2011 - 02:53:10 PM »
if it is a fresh build 1200 is cheap , machine work without parts can run twice the $1200 asking price assuming there is no problems with the engine now .
« Last Edit: November 12, 2011 - 04:13:31 PM by Chryco Psycho »

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Offline PlumCraZRT

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Re: 1973 cuda BB conversion
« Reply #9 on: November 12, 2011 - 04:08:39 PM »
if it is a fersh build 1200 is cheap , machine work without parts can run twice the $1200 asking proice assuming there is no problems with the engine now
:iagree:
mmmmm.... Mopar.... *drool*

Offline brads70

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Re: 1973 cuda BB conversion
« Reply #10 on: November 12, 2011 - 04:09:48 PM »
What about the Mopar Performance P5249159 1" bars? $164.00 at Jegs.

That's the best price I've seen yet!  :2thumbs:
Brad
1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
Barrie,Ontario,Canada
Proud to own one of the best cars ever made!!!!!

My restoration thread 
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=59072.0
 My handling upgrade post
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=73985.0

Offline edl94

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Re: 1973 cuda BB conversion
« Reply #11 on: November 14, 2011 - 08:00:50 PM »
 I guess it's gona be a 440  :bananasmi. Just picked up the engine, nothing special 10to1 with a mild cam 516 heads but it is a clean runner. I will install it as is and upgrade the heads and stuff later.

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: 1973 cuda BB conversion
« Reply #12 on: November 14, 2011 - 08:59:07 PM »
some of the highest HP #s I have made with factory heads have been with the 516 head , up grade can be a sideways move depending what you swap tp & what was done to the 516 heads
 congrats on getting the 440  :2thumbs:

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Offline 73EStroker

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Re: 1973 cuda BB conversion
« Reply #13 on: November 25, 2011 - 10:17:22 PM »
If you live near an engine dyno I would suggest taking it there to run it for diagnostic reasons. Easier than installing then having to remove again.
Barry (Salmon Arm)