Ford 2003-2004 Mach 1 rims on E-body?

[Super Blue 72]

Hi guys, goofy question.  I'm always trying to save $$$ (Who isn't?  ) so I look for alternatives as far as rims and such go.  I tried a search for this but didn't see anything.

The 2003-2004 Mustang Mach 1 rims sorta simulate the Magnum 500 style rim but in 17".  Sets of these rims can be found on craigslist for anywhere from $250-$500 that I have seen.  They aren't that deep dish but look kinda cool IMO and gets a 17" rims on the car for not too much money.

Any thoughts on this?  I know there is the hub issue up front and also the back space, but can a 1" space with a center hole to fit over the hub cure this issue with the Ford rims?  I know others have thought of using the Bullitt rims.

Thanks for any input, especially about the spacer issue. 

[dodj]

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=58491&highlight=mustang+wheels
Check out this thread at FABO. Lots of info. The hub bore seems to be the only issue to deal with.

http://www.americanmuscle.com
Check here for cheap "Mustang" wheels

[cudazappa]

I've done this.

  those are 17x9 SVT wheels.

A 1 inch spacer will get you the backs to fit.  You will still need them in front, but there is one more issue.

In the front, you'll either need to open up the center register of the rim, or turn down the leading edge of your hub (if you have discs, I'm unsure about drums in front, because I've never had that).  I prefer to turn down the leading edge of the rotor because you can then re-sell your mustang wheels easier when you have the itch to change.

[Cooter]

The money you save on the rims, you will have spent and much more when you realize too late that 17" tires wear out QUICK when driven hard. IMO, there's only one reason to install low profile tires on one of these cars, and that's to make/force it to handle. Not too mention the Wheel adapters/spacers needed cost up there. Driving it hard usually comes after the "Holy sh*t, this thing corners like it's on rails with these tires"..

[Super Blue 72]

Thanks for the replies so far guys!  Appreciate it! 

In the front, you'll either need to open up the center register of the rim, or turn down the leading edge of your hub (if you have discs, I'm unsure about drums in front, because I've never had that).  I prefer to turn down the leading edge of the rotor because you can then re-sell your mustang wheels easier when you have the itch to change.

Those SVT rims look sweet!

Dodj, I'm reading that thread as I type now...20 pages!!!!    Good info though!

Cooter, yeah make it handle, on the cheap.  Yeah, the spacers get pricey but just have to figure out whether or not it can be done, might be able to get a set of 4 spacers for like $130-$150 depending where I look.  I understand about what you said about the money saved on the rims. 

What do you think of this: What if I get spacers with the center hole that fits over the front rotor hub that doesn't have a hub ridge to interfere with the Ford rims? 

[Cooter]

Not that I'm saying this will happen to your ride, but a close friend here installed a set of these type wheels on an older car. The first thing that happened was the front wheel bearings took a beating from the weird offset. The spacers could work, but would need to check your local laws (Ie Safety) before buying. Here , they are "Frowned upon", but "Legal" none the less.

On the spacers, the hub register is kinda what helps center the stock wheel. I can't Imagine the spacers allowing for this to happen once installed to help with clearance.  Can be done, but alot of money spent to find out alot of other problems are yet to be seen/experienced.

[Super Blue 72]

Good advice, Cooter, thanks!    Yeah, the bearing issue is something to consider and the potential for other weird issues.   

[dodj]

Super Blue, I think Dan Z. has those wheels on his Challenger. You could pm DMZ73 and he may be able to give you first hand info.

[Super Blue 72]

Nice idea, dodj!  I'll give him a jingle.  Thanks! 

[Padawan]

Make sure you find these rims in 1/24 scale as well so you can update your signature photos!! 

[Super Blue 72]

Ha, I was thinking that too!  Might be tougher to find the 1/24 scale rims than the real ones!

We'll see if I do the rim change or not.  Guy hasn't contacted me back.  Unless I get them for a really good price, it's not worth it as I would have to get spacers and like Cooter mentioned the potential for fututre problems with bearings, etc...

[cudazappa]

The money you save on the rims, you will have spent and much more when you realize too late that 17" tires wear out QUICK when driven hard.

ANY tire will where out QUICK when driven hard.  Get a proper alignment for the way the car is going to be driven.  Also, if you drive like a granny, the tires will last a good long time.  if you drive spiritedly or race, well, expect tire life to be shortened.

What do you think of this: What if I get spacers with the center hole that fits over the front rotor hub that doesn't have a hub ridge to interfere with the Ford rims?

Those are the ONLY spacers you can run in the front because the Mopar register is LARGER than the Ford one.  I run a set of 4 on my Challenger.  Your disc hub is still much longer than the spacer so you'll have to figure decide on whether to turn "what sticks out" or modify the wheels.  My spacers ran $105 for the set (w/ shipping) 2 years ago.

as for bearing loads, anytime you go to a larger contact patch on the front you're increasing the loads on the system.  Also, as the wheel/tire gets bigger/heavier, you're increasing forces on the bearings, brakes etc.  You have to look at the wheel/tire as its own rotational system. 14x5.5" rims sporting 205/70s is a lot easier on the car than 15x7s with 245/60s.  And if you get lightweight 17" rims and 245/45s you may find that there's less forces than those 245/60s.  My Konigs and 245/45s are extremely light compared to 235/60s on 15x7 rallyes (which they replaced), and definitely lighter than the SVT rims and 275s.

btw: my 2 sets of 17" wheels and tires:
Spacers $105
Konig 17x8s $250
Yokohama 245/45s $400 (new)
SVT 17x9s $300
Used Race Rubber $150
Mounting/Balancing (both) $200
Modify discs $0 (expect a shop to charge around $60 for this)
So I'm out  $1405 total for two sets wheels and tires.  I kind of got boned on mounting balancing, and I only needed to modify my discs for the FORD wheels.

[Super Blue 72]

Thanks for the reply, cudazappa!    Great info!

I was reading that 20 page thread from dodj (Felt like reading that "'72 Hemi Cuda" thread) and they mentioned someone using a spacer that could fit over the Mopar front hub but the hub on the spacer was for Ford.  That that was really nice but too have 2 differnt hub sizes on the spacer sounded expensive.

$105 sounds liek a great deal.  If you don't mind, curious where you got them from?  I see some Eibach ones are cheap.

Guy hasn't gotten back to me so probably sold them... 

[dodj]

As far as bearing life goes, I can't see the harm spacers would do. If you have a 9" rim with a 4 1/2" backspace, it will treat your bearings the same as a 9" rim with a 6" backspace, coupled with a 1 1/2" spacer. Geometrically, the wheel is in the same place. Should treat the bearings the same.

[Super Blue 72]

Dodj, I see you're point.  I thought the same way before, just sort of imagining the spacer being part of the wheel, the distance from the mounting surface (the back of the spacer)  but (And I could be very wrong about this) the surface of the rim on the wheel with a 6" back space is where the verticle load force is and is pushed outward, acting like a lever arm and increasing the load on the hub area.

Believe it or not, there is actually discussing about this on RC car forums about adding extensions to the axle shafts- because the load force of the wheel is moved out, it acts like a lever and prematurely wears out bearings...again could be wrong (and these are RC cars too, different but the same in some degree.) 

There are so many rims out there with 6" back space...I'm still tempted to do it....