Progress on my AAR

[kielbasa]

Hi guys, I have my Strange S60 installed (1965~67 B-body width).
I also did new shocks (Bilstein), poly bushings, offset shackles, detailed the original leafs.
The part that took the longest though was cleaning the underbody (about the rear 1/3rd) with a spray bottle and toothbrush. Under all the North Carolina clay is the nice factory primer/overspray. I drowned the underbody with LPS III to keep it from rusting, that's why it has a brownish color.
I tucked away all the original pieces that were removed.
Another nice thing was making the original undercoating look new - washing with soap and scrub brush didn't work so good, but 1 coat of POR15 semi gloss made it look new again.
All the natural peices are coated with RPM (rust prevention magic).
I'm trying to keep a balance of keeping it original, and upgrading. Obviously the dana has no business under an AAR, but it was my most cost effective way to run 10 inch rallyes.

[Katfish]

Very nice, do you know how the e-brake cable should route to the right side?

I think mine is causing an annoying clunking sound, possibly hitting the sway bar over large bumps. 

I can't see any other way to route it though.

[brads70]

NICE! I'm planning on the same setup myself! Did you get it from Strange ? I've been talking with Cass from DrDiff.

[Topcat]

I'm almost drooling the Dana set up. That will be on my to get list.

A trick I read about to do on underbody was spraying Evapo Rust to remove the rusty look.
Some guy did it numerous times over a period of a week and the under-carriage went back to like it was new.

Your car doesn't look too bad to consider doing that.

Evapo Rust sells a spray mist bottle called Rust Block.
http://www.evapo-rust.co.nz/rust%20block%20dle%20email%20vs.pdf

That would keep it looking new after. Probably would have to do periodically misting on the underside to keep it that way. 

[kielbasa]

I got mine from Cass....
My car had 3.91's originally, so that's what I wanted but Cass mentioned that the 3.91's for the dana are China stuff and that they are noisy. I didn't want to go 4.10's, so I settled for 3.73's to keep a quiet gearset and keep me relatively close to what was original.
I went with gear type (not clutch type) limited slip, tapered bearings at no extra cost (green bearings are standard).
I am fabbing up some clamps/brackets to attach the brake line tee and right side parking brake cable to make it look factory (almost). The stainless brake lines are from Fine Lines, but Strange has their retaining clips etc in slightly different locations than factory, so I gotta make it right.
I'll see if i have a pic before I removed the right side parking brake cable.

[kielbasa]

Herea are some pics of the right side parking brake cable.....
top pic shows right side cable is clamped to body above the flexible brake line...
center pic shows where it is attached to the rear axle (front looking back)......
bottom pic shows it exiting backing plate.....

[kielbasa]

one more...

[Katfish]

Thx for the pix,

My area of concern is the right side where it comes down to the axle.  Let me know if you have any problems with it rubbing the sway bar.

[larry4406]

What rear sway bar works with the Dana?

[kielbasa]

Thx for the pix,

My area of concern is the right side where it comes down to the axle.  Let me know if you have any problems with it rubbing the sway bar.

yes, that's kinda what I figured - don't have a pic of that area...but I will take a pic of how I routed it (how it was originally, it doesn't seem to come anywhere near the sway bar).

[kielbasa]

What rear sway bar works with the Dana?

I used my original sway bar. I brought in each end 1 1/4" with the use of a hydraulic press ( i thinkit almost took 20 tons). I had a thread on this at moparts, and some guys told me they just put the sway bar in a vice and bent it - tried that with a 6 foot cheater pipe, no way could I do it - into the press it went and came out nice and symmetrical - no butcher work.
I can easily take it back to stock if I have to though - I was a little worried. The hydraulic press makes it so easy.

[kielbasa]

ok, took some shots of the right side parking brake cable routing....
i am working on making a clamp to hold the cable to the axle as it was routed from the factory, but the pics should give you the idea. also, indeed it is easy to have the cable hit the sway bar, depending on where it's clamped to the axle - i had wifey hold it for the pics.

[larry4406]

I used my original sway bar. I brought in each end 1 1/4" with the use of a hydraulic press ( i thinkit almost took 20 tons). I had a thread on this at moparts, and some guys told me they just put the sway bar in a vice and bent it - tried that with a 6 foot cheater pipe, no way could I do it - into the press it went and came out nice and symmetrical - no butcher work.
I can easily take it back to stock if I have to though - I was a little worried. The hydraulic press makes it so easy.

Any idea if a stock bar for an 8-3/4 will work with a standard length Dana?

[Katfish]

Thx for the pic, that does clear it up some for me.  Mine clamps to the right side on top and towards the wheel.
I can see your angle down is more severe and closer to the center for the cable. 
I have a factory e-body dana, so there is a bracket for a bolt there, maybe it's not for the e-cable.

Just doesn't seem right, I'll have to give it another look.

[kielbasa]

Any idea if a stock bar for an 8-3/4 will work with a standard length Dana?

I would think so - the only reason I had to bring my ends in is because of the 65~67 B-body width, nothing to do with the type of rear axle.