I don't like Sparks - alternator issue

Author Topic: I don't like Sparks - alternator issue  (Read 6349 times)

Offline 360FISH

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I don't like Sparks - alternator issue
« on: December 03, 2011 - 07:14:20 PM »
Started the car today and saw a spark fly off the alternator...
After inspection the negative post on the alternator was loose with no way to tighten it down.  I was able to wiggle it free with no problem.

Is the post easily replaceable?  I've never torn an alternator apart.  Any helpful hints (pictures) welcome.

Thank you
 

1973 ‘Cuda   Semi-Pro Touring
360 SB - 518/OD auto tranny - FAST EZ EFI - Edelbrock Fuel sump - HHR fan
Hella H4 headlights on relays - 97 Dodge Avenger seats - Chin spoiler - Bumpers pulled in to ’72 offset

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Offline Strawdawg

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Re: I don't like Sparks - alternator issue
« Reply #1 on: December 03, 2011 - 07:41:26 PM »
It should not be too hard to replace.

I usually buy alternator stuff from this bunch.  I don't see a post by itself, but, a call might get you one.  Here is a list of their rebuild kits.  they start at about 25$.   
http://www.alternatorparts.com/chrysler_alt_repair_upgrade_kits.htm

Might be a good time to consider an amperage upgrade while it is apart

Offline GoodysGotaCuda

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Re: I don't like Sparks - alternator issue
« Reply #2 on: December 03, 2011 - 08:00:51 PM »
After inspection the negative post on the alternator was loose with no way to tighten it down.

No relation to your fix, but that is definitely not a "negative" post. That is hot hot hot, directly to the battery. Be sure to disconnect the battery when messing with it!
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Offline 360FISH

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Re: I don't like Sparks - alternator issue
« Reply #3 on: December 03, 2011 - 08:25:57 PM »
No relation to your fix, but that is definitely not a "negative" post. That is hot hot hot, directly to the battery. Be sure to disconnect the battery when messing with it!

Thanks Goody...  I saw a black wire and assumed it was negative...

I did (and always) disconnect the battery before messing with the Alt.

It should not be too hard to replace.

I usually buy alternator stuff from this bunch.  I don't see a post by itself, but, a call might get you one.  Here is a list of their rebuild kits.  they start at about 25$.   
http://www.alternatorparts.com/chrysler_alt_repair_upgrade_kits.htm

Might be a good time to consider an amperage upgrade while it is apart

Strawdawg...   Thanks for the link.  I'm learning alot going through that and this related one from the same guys...  (has pictures)
http://store.alternatorparts.com/daimlerchrysler.aspx
1973 ‘Cuda   Semi-Pro Touring
360 SB - 518/OD auto tranny - FAST EZ EFI - Edelbrock Fuel sump - HHR fan
Hella H4 headlights on relays - 97 Dodge Avenger seats - Chin spoiler - Bumpers pulled in to ’72 offset

Build: http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=74674.0

Offline mopar12372

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Re: I don't like Sparks - alternator issue
« Reply #4 on: December 03, 2011 - 09:04:20 PM »
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Offline 360FISH

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Re: I don't like Sparks - alternator issue
« Reply #5 on: December 03, 2011 - 09:27:33 PM »
rebuilt alterneters are cheap
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/delialbrpk.html

Good point Bill...  I was hoping to replace the stud/terminal (or what ever) for a few bucks but it may be worth it to spend a little more and get a rebuilt one.
So... no issue bumping up the amps?  I see 78 amp units cheap.

Thanks as always
:)
1973 ‘Cuda   Semi-Pro Touring
360 SB - 518/OD auto tranny - FAST EZ EFI - Edelbrock Fuel sump - HHR fan
Hella H4 headlights on relays - 97 Dodge Avenger seats - Chin spoiler - Bumpers pulled in to ’72 offset

Build: http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=74674.0

Offline Strawdawg

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Re: I don't like Sparks - alternator issue
« Reply #6 on: December 04, 2011 - 10:39:05 AM »
Altho many of us add a straight feed to the battery/relay to either eliminate the ammeter, or, reduce the load on it due to the age, resistance, etc. of the circuit which may eventually lead to fire under the dash at the ammeter...

we should remember that installing a higher amp alternator does not mean that it will automatically put more amps out.   IF the electrical system requires 35 amps to operate at 14 volts, then that is all a 200 amp alternator is going to put out.

On the other hand, if you add dual, high flow fans, a strong system, driving lights, whatever, and the system needs 80 amps or more, then the larger alternator will supply it and maintain the 14 volts (or whatever the regulator is trying to maintain).  In this case you need to improve the wiring all the way around.  Being a bit larger in capacity than the car needs will allow the alternator to live longer as it generates less heat to do its job...that is assuming it was a quality unit to begin with :)


Offline mopar12372

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Re: I don't like Sparks - alternator issue
« Reply #7 on: December 04, 2011 - 02:22:37 PM »
then add up all the accessories in the car (amps) youll find out how much alternater you need.
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Offline AARuFAST

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Re: I don't like Sparks - alternator issue
« Reply #8 on: December 04, 2011 - 06:56:14 PM »
Curious as to why u have such a heavy cable going to the alt..   

Looks like it put a strain on the post..
« Last Edit: December 04, 2011 - 07:09:38 PM by AARuFAST »
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Offline Grec

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Re: I don't like Sparks - alternator issue
« Reply #9 on: December 05, 2011 - 12:03:39 PM »
Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't there supposed to be a rubber boot or plastic piece on there to prevent the 12v from making contact with the casing of the alternator?

I know on my 73 I was getting a ground at this terminal until I figured this out...
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Offline MEK-Dangerfield

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Re: I don't like Sparks - alternator issue
« Reply #10 on: December 05, 2011 - 04:07:31 PM »
Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't there supposed to be a rubber boot or plastic piece on there to prevent the 12v from making contact with the casing of the alternator?

I know on my 73 I was getting a ground at this terminal until I figured this out...

My 70 has a plastic cover on the big black wire.

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Offline 360FISH

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Re: I don't like Sparks - alternator issue
« Reply #11 on: December 07, 2011 - 02:47:59 AM »
then add up all the accessories in the car (amps) youll find out how much alternater you need.
I'll get out the abacus and start counting... 

Curious as to why u have such a heavy cable going to the alt..   

Looks like it put a strain on the post..
Twas on there already...   :clueless:

Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't there supposed to be a rubber boot or plastic piece on there to prevent the 12v from making contact with the casing of the alternator?

I know on my 73 I was getting a ground at this terminal until I figured this out...
Hmmm..  picture??  I'm curious...   :1zhelp:

Thanks guys
1973 ‘Cuda   Semi-Pro Touring
360 SB - 518/OD auto tranny - FAST EZ EFI - Edelbrock Fuel sump - HHR fan
Hella H4 headlights on relays - 97 Dodge Avenger seats - Chin spoiler - Bumpers pulled in to ’72 offset

Build: http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=74674.0

Offline mopar12372

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Re: I don't like Sparks - alternator issue
« Reply #12 on: December 07, 2011 - 01:05:36 PM »
the big wire is great , it is a upgradethat should be done when you put 00 wire and relocate to the trunk (also great when battery is in front too)  and easier on the system . you might want to check the engine mounts or wire routeing because it looks like the wire got pulled somehow .
just make sure theres enough slack .  :2thumbs:
« Last Edit: December 07, 2011 - 01:08:00 PM by mopar12372 »
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Offline Grec

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Re: I don't like Sparks - alternator issue
« Reply #13 on: December 09, 2011 - 11:44:42 AM »
I'll try to post a pic of the rubber boot I mentioned this weekend.
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Offline Grec

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Re: I don't like Sparks - alternator issue
« Reply #14 on: December 10, 2011 - 02:55:30 PM »
So... I'm pretty sure the boot is there to keep the wire / nut from making direct contact with the alternator casing, preventing a constant ground. Kind of like the 12v wire that goes on the cigarette lighter. It contacts the post and nothing else.

This is a reproduction 73 engine harness, I'm pretty sure the earlier ones just had a small plastic thingy that went on before connecting the wire. It served the same purpose as the boot.

This is the part you use if you don't have the boot...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/alternator-terminal-insulator-Plymouth-Dodge-Chrysler-/400261725410#ht_708wt_1156
« Last Edit: December 10, 2011 - 02:59:15 PM by Grec »
1973 Challenger Rallye
- 440 Six Pack
- A833 4 Speed, 18 Spline
- FE5 Rallye Red on Black