questions on charging, Alt, Reg Etc

[Talkwrench]

Now electrics is not my strong point . The charging has always been a bit whacky..at one point I was charging at 14.75+ so I replaced the reg [gen Mopar]  didnt change  still a bit on the high side...Since fitting the HEI ignition things are all over the place too. What I do know I that Im loosing a good .75 volt by the time it gets to the battery ..MMm? I went the auto electrician and of course with the A/c on and lights etc barely makes 12 volts at the battery. He suggested to run a wire direct from the Alt to the battery. Im thinking about it  ..Does that now bypass the Reg or does the Reg, regulate at the Alt somehow ?

[brads70]

Electrical is NOT my strong point either!    But I did run a wire from the battery to the alternator lug to "sort of" ( but not really) bypass the amp gauge. I've had no problems doing this. Hope that helps some?

[LAA66]

Electrical is NOT my strong point either!    But I did run a wire from the battery to the alternator lug to "sort of" ( but not really) bypass the amp gauge. I've had no problems doing this. Hope that helps some?

 Same here!   

 I Added a new 10g. wire from alternator to starter relay also. Removed the original alt wire all the way to the bulkhead connector. The Main reason was to bypass "heavy" current thru the ALT gauge. Also added a fusable link on the new bypass wire at the relay as a precaution because this is the current supply for the system.

 The alternator/regulator will allow 14+v until the "charge" equilibrium is balanced in the entire system. As for voltage drop that is quite common in these older cars. Check your voltage at the headlights, mine was down around 10v before adding relays.

[dodj]

Does that now bypass the Reg or does the Reg, regulate at the Alt somehow ?

No it doesn't bypass the reg. The regulator 'regulates' the o/p of the alt by varying the resistance of the alt field connection to ground. Where you run the alt's o/p wire doesn't matter to the reg.

[Talkwrench]

Kool  good to know, Checked my earths and seemed ok. MUst get onto bypassing the ampmeter ! 

[dodj]

High resistance connections often cause charging system problems with these cars. The bulkhead connector being a prime suspect. Fusible link connectors and ammeter connections can also contribute to the problem.
It's worth taking the connections apart and checking/cleaning them. 

[Talkwrench]

Yup! I put a voltmeter [gauge] in the cab and connected it via the spare connector at the fuse box.. reads totally different than whats going on forward of the bulkhead     I calibrated it before fitting, still can read say 12 volts when actual at the battery might be near 13.5 volts! Mmm I may have that the wrong way round but  What the?
Does the fusebox pull apart at the bulkhead?

[dodj]

Does the fusebox pull apart at the bulkhead?

The connections to be concerned about are accessible from the engine compartment side. You can pull apart the fuse box from the inside, but there are no connections to clean. It's wiring and crimped connections. No un-doable connections. Hmmmm...Is undoable a word? 

[GoodysGotaCuda]

I hope all these "bypass" wires I'm reading about have some circuit protection on them...

Mopars in general do not have the best charging systems at idle. At full electrical load, it's not uncommon to be at battery voltage. Usually it does not cause any problems since as soon as you come above idle the system is charging. I did notice a slight bump in idle charging when I went to the "Mopar Performance" constant 13.5v voltage regulator they sell. I also have a 90a Denso alternator on mine to help keep up with the accessories I am running off of it.

[Talkwrench]

I did ask the auto 'leccy if the bypass should have a fuse, said "no" 

[Chryco Psycho]

I have never fused a bypass wire , there is battery voltage at both ends what is the fuse going to prevent ?

[LAA66]

 Good point, after thinking it thru, a fuse at both ends of the bypass might be a good ideas for a short or meltdown. Generally the line runs over the engine which is somewhat precarious. I believe the MAd article recommended only one at the opposite end from the alternator. 

 Here's my setup at the relay. Grey wires are fusable links from the alt. and feed to the rest of the car. Yellow wires are to the headlight relay with their own inline fuses. Only section not protected is alternator feed across the engine.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

I have never fused a bypass wire , there is battery voltage at both ends what is the fuse going to prevent ?

Are you keeping the factory wiring on the alternator as well as a "bypass" wire to the battery?

The fusible link then becomes pretty much useless leaving the charging system without any short protection. All charging system output circuits should be fused in case of a short or over-charging of the alternator. Running a bypass wire in conjunction with the factory charging wire is a poor idea.

Ditch the factory charging wire and run a fused/breakered/fusible linked wire from the alternator to the battery. "Never doing" or "Never having a problem" doesn't necessarily deem it as the best method.

[dodj]

I have never fused a bypass wire , there is battery voltage at both ends what is the fuse going to prevent ?

I fuse downstream of the source, not between two sources.

(changed this opinion later...)

[LAA66]

 So a fuse would simply protect that section of wire between the two sources?

 What if this occurred? Would not a fuse at the battery be appropriate