72 Cuda Resurrection

[Jamiez]

Just saw a rebroadcast of "muscle car" on Spike TV, where they painted their COPO Camaro clone with Lizard Skin Heat Barrier. They said that if you are also going to use the Liz-Skin Sound Deadener, to put it down before the Liz-Skin Heat barrier.

They also mentioned it didn't work well on raw metal and did some quick primer on the bare spots.

[mrbill426]

Is that a Sherman piece?  How do you like them?

Welded in the hump today.  Also removed the plate where the roll bar was welded to the passenger floor pan.  I have been putting it off since it was a lot of grinding.  Going to finish stripping off the rust and paint on the floor and prime it. 

[Edison1970]

I am on the fence with the lizard skin. I also saw that Eastwood has their own version of Dynamat that is a lot less expensive.    I stripped the driver's side floor tonight.  I used a knotted wire wheel on my angle grinder.  It worked much better than the wire cup but the flying wire strands do not feel too good.  The four speed hump is a Sherman piece.  I got it from Rock Auto.  About a $100 bucks with the discount.  It fit really good. 

[ShelbyDogg]

Look at the bottom of page 10 of my pace car thread. I painted 2 coats of POR15, then 2 coats of truck bed liner, then a layer of Reflectix from lowes.

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.135

Go to Page 10 and look at the 2 bottom posts.  Probably cheaper than Lizard skin and the bed liner coating seems very durable

[Edison1970]

Took a break from the floor pans. Striped the paint on the driver's door, jam and rocker.  Door was in good shape.  A couple of small dings but no rust to cut out.  Lower inside edge had some rust so I hit it with the wire wheel and then treated it with osphos.  I have to fix the mirror area.  Someone mounted a b-body mirror and drilled some extra holes for me to fill.  Now I'm rebuilding the door hinges.

[Edison1970]

I ordered a patch panel for the driver's front fender.  I don't know if anyone here has tried these from Classic Industries but it looks pretty good. It is made by AMD.  Will probably fit it in a few weeks.  I bought a patch at Carlise for the driver's rear quarter behind the drivers door.  It was made by Sherman.  I wasn't too impressed with it but I picked it up for cheap.

[loco340cuda]

I am on the fence with the lizard skin. I also saw that Eastwood has their own version of Dynamat that is a lot less expensive.    I stripped the driver's side floor tonight.  I used a knotted wire wheel on my angle grinder.  It worked much better than the wire cup but the flying wire strands do not feel too good.  The four speed hump is a Sherman piece.  I got it from Rock Auto.  About a $100 bucks with the discount.  It fit really good. 

Nice job on the floor pan.  Can you post a picture of the knotted wire wheel you used?  I want to strip the trunk floors in my Cuda and am interested in the knotted wire wheel if it works better then the wire cup.  Thanks

[Edison1970]

This was definitely the way to go.  I have several cup wheels and they just didn't remove the paint as well.  You just have to wear eye protection and or a face shield.  The wire tends to shoot off every so often.  Had quite a few stick in my leg.  If you have some rust, it almost cleans it like the sand blaster.

[loco340cuda]

Thanks for the pict. 

[Edison1970]

I got the roof completely stripped. Found a few surprises under the paint.  Who am I kidding, I wasn't surprised.
There are a few dents I will have to pull and I treated some rust spots.  I also fixed an area behind the back seat.  The brace was loose and someone did a sloppy weld job.

[Edison1970]

Sanded the under side of the roof today.  I have been putting it off for a long time because I new what a mess it would be.  I coated it with osphos when I was done.  Any suggestions on the paint?  I have a can of POR15.  Didn't know if I should use that or just prime it.

[johns cuda shop]

well it took 40 years to get the surface rust on it. Anything would be better than bare metal..Condensation and moisture normally doesn't form on the inner roof panel because of the nature of it being the closest panel to sunlight. I would overkill it here. Looks like your making progress.   

[7212Mopar]

well it took 40 years to get the surface rust on it. Anything would be better than bare metal..Condensation and moisture normally doesn't form on the inner roof panel because of the nature of it being the closest panel to sunlight. I would overkill it here. Looks like your making progress.   

Actually hot air holds more moisture so underside of the roof will have higher humidity. It will condense moisture more likely when cool down.  The vapor pressure will then try to equalize with the rest of the car's interior. This condition is most prevalent when the car is parked outdoor. 

[johns cuda shop]

So I guess thats why it only has slight surface rust on the bare metal surface after 40 yrs than heavy rust scale and rust though ?   

[Edison1970]

Well, I listened to one of the members here and coated the floor pans with POR 15.  I actually liked it better than the Rust Bullet.  It was a little thinner out of the can.  It laid down better and didn't show the brush strokes like the RB.  I am going to put a coat on the under side of the roof next.