72 Cuda Resurrection

[johns cuda shop]

Just weld a bolt to the end of a slide hammer so you can screw into the front of the cam and knock it out. I keep old slide hammer around here for that purpose. Dave you can come by and borrow it if you want..

[Edison1970]

I think I'll take you up on that one.  I'll give you a call.

[Edison1970]

Met Cuda John out at the Mopar Week car show this morning.  There were some nice cars there.  The event is getting bigger every year.  John is going to post some pictures. I missed some of the cars that came later.  Anyway, I left early to get home and get to work on the car.  I pretty much finished the rear window molding gap repair on the driver's side.  Came out pretty good.  I need to do the passenger side next.  I plan on removing the lead and finishing it with fiberglass.  I took a picture of it now.  What a poor job the factory did.

Before

During

After

Passenger side before and repair to come

[dutch]

that looks a whole lot better.   

[hemiken]

  a sometimes overlooked area for sure, good that you picked that up

[Edison1970]

What size gap should I leave?  I see the factory was pretty inconsistent.  I just don't want to have a problem if it is too tight with it painted.

[johns cuda shop]

Looks much better Dave.. I would leave about a 1/32 or so to be sure. Trial fit your chrome trim once you do your last cote of 2K primer..

[sassygreen]

stuck cam. Make sure the fuel pump rod is free from the fuel pump cam lobe. If the rod is still in there the cam will not come out. Hope this helps.

[Edison1970]

that sounds good on the gap.  As far as the cam, I dropped the pump rod down so I know it's not touching the cam.  I am going to use the slide hammer that John talked about and most likely replace the cam bearings.  Thanks Guys.  I really appreciate the feed back.

[Edison1970]

Finished the driver's side door.  Probably the best panel on the car.  It needed very little filler.  Two small rust spots that I drilled out and welded. 
On the driver's fender, I tried the method that is in the last issue of Mopar Muscle.  I sanded the entire surface, then used Muratic acid.  It came out pretty good.  It cleaned out much of the small pitting that was in the fender and also brought to my attention a few small spots that needed to be cut out and welded.  I was going to use ospho on it next but I have been reading some issues with filler not sticking well to it after it has been treated.  Anyone have any experience with adhesive issues when using ospho?


This is what I had to deal with. 

This is what it starts to look like after you treat it. 

Door stripped down and ready for filler.

[Edison1970]

Back at it again.  Found a few pin holes that ended up taking up most of the weekend.  At least I'm done around the front windshield.  Just need to use some filler.



I lost the photos I took before I started the repair.  I cut out about 10 inches all the way down to the area where it meets the a pillar. 

[brads70]

Looks great, good job! 

[Topcat]

Back at it again.  Found a few pin holes that ended up taking up most of the weekend.

At least I'm done around the front windshield.  Just need to use some filler.

[/size]


I recommend you lead/solder the roof ajoining areas.
Not too difficult to learn.

http://www.musclecarrestorations.com/articles/tech/metal-work/quarter-panel-leading.html

[Edison1970]

I have thought about the lead thing but I have also had great success with all metal.  Will figure it out soon.

[Topcat]

I have thought about the lead thing but I have also had great success with all metal.  Will figure it out soon.

The all metal filler won't be good enough. Trust me!
I did it before and I still had the band-aid effect on the sail panels when it was a warm/hot day.

The reason why you need to lead there is because plastic expands at a diferent rate than steel.
Then you get this bulge or what is known as the band-aid look at the sail panel.

Some have claimed that the roof/quarter panels on E bodies flex under high torque or take offs.

It's an extra few hundred bucks in materials and a few extra hours. worth it! YOU CAN DO IT!!!