How to replace rear springs

[ff6849]

I have never installed or removed rear leaf springs before, I getting ready to order a set from ESPO +1, any advise as to how to install these and what should be replaced in the process.  Are there any safety concerns with spring installation, other than having the car fall on me......I did search the forum unable to really find any how to stuff.  A lot on relocating but this will just be a replacing 40 year old saggy springs. 

[brads70]

I'll assume the car will be on jack stands on the chassis. I'd put the jack under the rear end just to take the weight off, then do one side at a time. Loosen the u-bolts and shackel bolts. If your car is rusty at all I'd order new u-bolts and shackels ,and shackel bolts at ESPO when you get the springs ( that's what I did, they are not that expencive)
You might have to cut off the u-bolts if they are rusty ( they most likley are?)
Just do one side at a time.  Might be easyier if you remove the spring  mounts at the front first?

Get new bushings too! Yours WILL need replacing if the are original.

[javakm70cuda]

I second what brads70 said. It will take some time, but not too bad of a job to do as long as all bolts come out easy. Make sure jack stands are secure & i usually place blocks of wood or something else under frame just in case. You will be rocking the car trying to get bolts loose so better safe than sorry. Better to be start than dead. 

[burdar]

I'm pretty sure you have to take the front spring bracket off.  The front spring eye bolt won't come out otherwise.  Take your time with the front spring bracket nuts.  The studs like to twist off if they are rusty.  All but two of mine broke.

[spamtank]

Just getting ready to replace mine.  I was gonna remove both at the same time but one at a time is a better idea. 

Thanks!

[MEK-Dangerfield]

This is a dirty job for sure. I had to use a hack saw to get the U-bolts off. Then I had to buy new shackles because I mangled mine trying to get them apart. I needed a pry bar to get the front brackets off, but at least I didn't break any of the studs.   

Something that wasn't mentioned was putting the new springs on. I found it helpful to use a jack to lift the rear axle on the side I was working on. That made sliding that metal thingie on the spring(don't know what it's called) in place while I put the new U-bolts on was easy.

[dodj]

I'm pretty sure you have to take the front spring bracket off.  The front spring eye bolt won't come out otherwise.

Spray all the attaching bolt/nuts with WD40/Moovit or whatever you favorite penetrating oil is and take your rear valance off while you are waiting for your springs.

[brads70]

Spray all the attaching bolt/nuts with WD40/Moovit or whatever you favorite penetrating oil is and take your rear valance off while you are waiting for your springs.

I never had to remove the rear valance to replace the springs?

[dodj]

I never had to remove the rear valance to replace the springs?

I guess you don't HAVE to, but I like the extra working space around the rear shackles.

[Road_Runner]

Safety-wise, jack the back of the car up and put a strong jack stand under the frame just in front of the front spring mount on each side of the car.  I don't know if its the best way, but I usually jack the back up using a floor jack under the center of the rear end lifting both sides at once to get it on the jack stands, if you're not on a flat floor chalk the front wheels first.  I would replace the springs one side at a time keeping the jack under the rear-end center section to hold it up while you're working.  Another way to do this is drop the back shackles on both at the same time and lower the rear to the floor.  Then unbolt the front of the leaf springs and finish lowering the springs & the rear as one, take the springs loose from the rear. And then basically reassemble in reverse order.  Problem with this method is that you're definitely going to have to unhook the rubber brake line from the rear which means you'll have to reconnect and bleed the brakes when you're done.  You also will probaby want to disconnect the driveshaft to keep it from falling out of the trans.  Lastly, whenever I take a wheel off to work on a car I always put it under the car where it could do the most good if it fell off the jack(s).  I'm not sure if this is what you meant by how to do this safely, but however you do it take every precaution & stay safe!

Later, Jim

[challengermaniac]

As noted, it's pretty much a block over tackle job, very doable as long as you support the rearend and do one side at a time.  Just be 1,000% sure you have properly supported the car along with having a backup safety stand in place as we have lost a few classic car buffs due to improperly supported vehicles.

[dodj]

Lastly, whenever I take a wheel off to work on a car I always put it under the car where it could do the most good if it fell off the jack(s).

Me too! And I thought I was the only one that paranoid/worried about the car landing on my face.

[GranCuda1970]

Me thrice!!

[spamtank]

I have never installed or removed rear leaf springs before, I getting ready to order a set from ESPO +1, any advise as to how to install these and what should be replaced in the process.  ..... A lot on relocating but this will just be a replacing 40 year old saggy springs.

Hey ff6849, how's the leaf spring replacement going?  Just started mine this weekend.  I wanted to see if I could save the u-bolts and a few other components.  But once I started to back the nuts off, it became clear it was going to be a battle.  So I ordered new u-bolts and front spring eye bolts from ESPO.  If all goes well, those will be the only parts that will be replaced.

Hope your project is progressing.

[jimynick]

This is a job where having access to a torch and air is ALL the difference between a regular or PITA job. Wire brush the threads of the U-bolts, heat 'em cherry red and apply your air or electric impact gun and I guarantee they'll come off. Same deal with the shackle bolts. I took an old, broken air chisel and cut it off to about 3" from the retainer ring, it makes a great aid on buzzing stubborn bolts and bushings out of their holes. Safety first! Chock the wheels as mentioned and use good stands. It's about a 6 beer job if all goes well.