idler arm questions

[burdar]

I can't believe I'm going to ask this....

1.  I took the original dust boot off of the idler arm.  I assumed the arm was bad since I couldn't move the tapered end side to side like a tie rod.  Looking under the boot, it doesn't look like it is supposed to move like a tie rod.  There is no up and down movement that I can feel and no side to side movement.  I can turn the tapered section...not easily...not hard either.  I assume this means the center link end is still good?

2.  When installing the idler arm in the K-member, you are supposed to tighten the pinch bolt to 65 foot pounds I think.  That means the two ears on the K-member should hold the idler arm tight...meaning the idler shouldn't move back and forth inside the K-member right?  It should move back and forth around the rubber bushing?  How easily should the idler arm move once the pinch bolt is tight?  Can I clamp the arm in a vice to make sure it moves back and forth around the bushing?

 

[dodj]

It's been a while since I played with the idler arm but I believe there are one or two washers to fit in there as well to take up some of the space in between the ears of the k-member.

[brads70]

Yep mine has 2 washers. It tightens on the k-frame and it moves back and forth on the internal bushings. Sounds like yours is OK. As long as it doesn't rock/have slop it's good, and the taper doesn't move like a tie rod.

[burdar]

Thanks guys!  I just put the arm in a vice and it moves back and forth perfectly.  There aren't any loose washers on my stock arm.  I think the Moog replacement idlers use washers though.  I'll just test fit the arm in the K-member to make sure there isn't a lot of extra slop.

Since the tapered end doesn't have a zerk, what can I spray down in there for some lubrication?  Should I spray some white grease in there or try to force some wheel bearing grease down inside?

I see a Moog pitman arm listed on RockAuto as a "problem solver" with a 1.1" diameter inside the splines.  Does anyone know what they are talking about there?  My original pitman arm needs to be replaced.  The tapered end doesn't move freely...it feels like there are some grooves worn into it.  RockAuto also has a pitman arm listed for $25 but I don't know if I trust it at half the price of the others.

[dutch]

there are 2 different sizes in the splined holes. pre 73 and 73-74.   the later ones are larger.  I have a new Moog for you if you need it.
( it does need a dust cover since I used it on my original one...) I ordered a 70 , and the bag says it is, but has the big hole.  The arm was $90... don`t know where the &25 comes from...? sounds very cheap to me     shipping from here will still be cheaper then the 25... just let me know.

[burdar]

Let me work at getting the pitman arm off and then we can compair the two.  I tried removing it last night but it didn't budge.

[dodj]

Let me work at getting the pitman arm off and then we can compair the two.  I tried removing it last night but it didn't budge.

Big vise, big breaker bar...It's a PITA to get loosened.

[brads70]

I got a cheap pitman arm puller . Where you are harbor freight will have one? ( we don't have that store here in Canada)

[burdar]

I've got a puller and was using it.  It still didn't budge.  I've been spraying it down with PB Blaster for the last few days too.  I was putting quite a bit of force on the breaker bar when I decided it probably wasn't the best idea.  With my luck, the puller would snap and a large chunk of it would fly into the car.  I'll move the box somewhere else and try again.

[brads70]

I've got a puller and was using it.  It still didn't budge.  I've been spraying it down with PB Blaster for the last few days too.  I was putting quite a bit of force on the breaker bar when I decided it probably wasn't the best idea.  With my luck, the puller would snap and a large chunk of it would fly into the car.  I'll move the box somewhere else and try again.

Maybe try tapping the puller stud while it's under tension, sometimes a little vibration works wonders!

[burdar]

I finally got the arm off.  There are accually 4 larger splines all spaced equally.  That means the arm can be clocked four different ways.  Here is my original arm.  Lets compare the two...




I measured accross the bottom from master spline to master spline and got 1 1/8".

[burdar]

Oh, and thanks for the help with the idler arm.  I test fit it in the K-member and it will be snug once the bolt is tightened.  I got it all cleaned up...it looks new again.

[dutch]

here`s a pic of mine.  I will get you some measurements tomorrow. Shape seems to be the same.

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=81271.60

[dutch]

it`s the same size. 1 1/8"

[burdar]

Does yours have 4 master splines too?