My new 74 Challenger

[usraptr]

I believe the third piece down is a cover for the wiring harness that runs down the driver's side of the interior.  The tabs are normally welded to  the floor-pan and it can be bent upward slightly to gain access to the wire harness.  If I remember correctly there are 3 separate pieces that run from the from of the door post to the rear of the door.  Check to see if yours are all there.

[Jamiez]

I believe the really long piece is probably the center section of the rear bumper filler.  Assuming it's made of some "rubber-like" material and not metal.

[jimynick]

The long. silver one is the rear centre bumper filler, I believe. Give us some better photos of the other stuff, please.

[jimynick]

Took another look and the blue thing second up from the bottom may be the interior wiring cover that attaches inside the lft rocker under the carpet. Not sure with these photos, though.

[highspeeddirt]

Sorry about the pics guys.  I'll get some better ones up.  I'm not on my normal computer right now.

I believe the third piece down is a cover for the wiring harness that runs down the driver's side of the interior.  The tabs are normally welded to  the floor-pan and it can be bent upward slightly to gain access to the wire harness.  If I remember correctly there are 3 separate pieces that run from the from of the door post to the rear of the door.  Check to see if yours are all there.

Took another look and the blue thing second up from the bottom may be the interior wiring cover that attaches inside the lft rocker under the carpet. Not sure with these photos, though.

You guys are right on this piece.  I knew I had seen it before, but couldn't remember where.  There is one still in the car at the rear of the rocker.

The long. silver one is the rear centre bumper filler, I believe. Give us some better photos of the other stuff, please.

I believe the really long piece is probably the center section of the rear bumper filler.  Assuming it's made of some "rubber-like" material and not metal.

It's made of metal, but where you are saying is about the only place it'll fit.  Were the 70-71 pieces made of metal and the later pieces different maybe?
Thanks for helping.  I'll try and get better shots tomorrow!

[Jamiez]

74 was made of a rubber material, I am not sure about 72 and 73.  Pre 72 the bumpers were different, I am not even sure they had fillers.

[highspeeddirt]

Ok, it took me forever, but I got a couple more shots.  Not much better, but maybe itll help.......

[Jamiez]

Ok, it took me forever, but I got a couple more shots.  Not much better, but maybe itll help.......

Last 2 are definitely the front extension shield:

[68-383Bee]

the first 2 pics look like the rear bumper filler on my 70.
Charles

[highspeeddirt]

the first 2 pics look like the rear bumper filler on my 70.
Charles

If it is off a 70, will it work on a 74?

Also, not to get off the current subject but....
I just bought some of the MP cast valve covers and was going to get the matching air cleaner. Well it says it has a riased base. I'm not sure it going to fit with my current set up. Here's a pic of my clearance through the scoop insert hole. Anyone had some experience with that air cleaner that could give me an idea before I order it?

And..... when I took out the insert, i noticed the part on the back that is pop riveted is loose. May be a stupid question, but is it supposed to be loose? both of mine are.

[brads70]

If it is off a 70, will it work on a 74?

Also, not to get off the current subject but....
I just bought some of the MP cast valve covers and was going to get the matching air cleaner. Well it says it has a riased base. I'm not sure it going to fit with my current set up. Here's a pic of my clearance through the scoop insert hole. Anyone had some experience with that air cleaner that could give me an idea before I order it?

And..... when I took out the insert, i noticed the part on the back that is pop riveted is loose. May be a stupid question, but is it supposed to be loose? both of mine are.

Looks like your going to have to remove the carb spacer? I was always told that you need a minimum of 1" from the vent tube on the carb to the air cleaner lid.

[Jamiez]

If it is off a 70, will it work on a 74?

You can convert from 74 bumpers to the earlier 70-2 style.  72 is actually the best option as these have the jack slot which will fit the 73/74 jacks.  The bumper brackets need to be swapped/relocated.  Different fillers are used, the bumper guards are different and the license plate bracket might need to be moved as well.

It is a pretty common change as a lot of people prefer the tucked in bumpers that 70-72 had and dislike the 73+ style.  Maybe it has already been done to your car which is why you may have an older filler.

A search of here or Moparts should bring up a few threads that walk you through the process.

[highspeeddirt]

Looks like your going to have to remove the carb spacer? I was always told that you need a minimum of 1" from the vent tube on the carb to the air cleaner lid.

Thanks. I Might end up taking it off.  I really like the matching air cleaner with the valve covers.

You can convert from 74 bumpers to the earlier 70-2 style.  72 is actually the best option as these have the jack slot which will fit the 73/74 jacks.  The bumper brackets need to be swapped/relocated.  Different fillers are used, the bumper guards are different and the license plate bracket might need to be moved as well.

It is a pretty common change as a lot of people prefer the tucked in bumpers that 70-72 had and dislike the 73+ style.  Maybe it has already been done to your car which is why you may have an older filler.

A search of here or Moparts should bring up a few threads that walk you through the process.

I'll have to get out the rear bumper and do a little test fitting.  Thanks for the info.  Gonna do a few searches on that.

[challenger7four]

the middle three pics from your march 6 post is a piece that goes across the bottom face of your grill.

[highspeeddirt]

Looks like your going to have to remove the carb spacer? I was always told that you need a minimum of 1" from the vent tube on the carb to the air cleaner lid.

Well got the mopar air cleaner in.....(along with a lot of other goodies!) and took the carb spacer out. Still no luck. Can get the hood shut, but it against the hood. Guess I'll change out to a 14" with a drop base. Would love to keep the mopar one, but can't find a 13" drop base. Why in the world would they make it 13" when 14" seems to be common place?

Been working on putting all the new goodies in place to try and fire the engine up. Got a new engine harness, new ecu, voltage reg, ballast, starter relay, radiator, hoses, ect. ect. Y'all know all that little stuff that'll nickel and dime you to death! Anyway, got it all together with the seatbelt reset included. Moment of truth...... No crank! Tried pushing the reset button. No crank! Mill over wiring diagram... Realize I need to plug in front light harness for the fusible link to ammeter. No crank! Jumper wire across the reset box plug. We have crank! But no spark! After racking my brain over wiring diagrams for a few hours, turns out my dumb @ss had the ignition wire and ground on the starter relay backwards. Got some spark now! I don't have the fuel tank in yet so just sticking a hose in the jug for now. Dump a little go juice in the carb and she hit! Couple more times to get gas sucked up, and it starts just squirting out the rear vent tube. Summed up, back needle and seat is messed up. Just went and picked up another one but don't think I should bust off the open headers at 9:30pm on a Sunday night. Anxious to hear it. I don't know a lot about the engine except it's a fresh 360 and just been ran enough for break in. Cam is a comp cams  20-223-3.  Has 268 intake duration, 280 exhaust duration, .477 intake lift, .480 exhaust lift. And I know it has roller rockers from when I swapped valve covers. 750 holley on a torker 2 intake. Other than that ?? Hopefully get some time tomorrow to fire it up.