Challenger stopped starting

[dodj]

It's back. When I turn the key I get nothing, but I can get the engine to crank over by jumping the two contacts on the starter relay. It won't start, even when I pour gas into the carb, but at least it's cranking. I'm hoping that the problem is either starter, or something that's going to get changed when I drop in the 440

Do you still have the voltage problem you described initially?

Are you getting 12v on the yellow wire at the solenoid? If you are, it sounds like your neutral safety switch.

[CHL2T]

I am assuming you bypassed the ammeter correct? If not, that could be the source of your trouble. Mine was fried and the Challenger  was doing the exact same thing.

No power anywhere, cranks from the SR and doesn't start

[GranCuda1970]

The big 70 book said something about a test ammeter if it reads less than 5 - 7 amperes than specification could be Open "shorted" rectifier in the alternator.

[CHL2T]

Check this thread http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=64140.0

It is exactly what you are experiencing

[GranCuda1970]

Come to think of it mine had burn spots on the bulkhead connector too wonder if it was ammeter!

[06Daytona]

I noticed a little melty stuff on my bulkhead connector too. I thought it was just due to age. I'll try bypassing the ammeter tomorrow and see if that helps

[dodj]

Just to repeat. It is important to determine if your battery voltage is going to zero when you try to crank the engine. If it is, you will do serious damage with repeated start attempts. Possibly a fire. If you are smelling melted plastic, you are not far away from a possible fire.
Be careful!

[06Daytona]

I haven't smelled any plastic. The bulkhead connector looks like it's been melted for a while. This morning when I tried to move the car it cranked over no problem with the key, but didn't start which is normal. It's usually about a 10 minute ordeal to get it running. When I cranked the engine for the second try there was nothing, no click, no smoke no burning smell, just the same as if I'd pulled the battery out. I don't think my ammeter has worked since I got the car, so I'm leaning in that direction since I had an earlier problem where the car would run fine, but the battery wasn't charging so the car died when the battery went flat.

[wiging19]

Two things I would check is the neutral switch and wiring to the switch.  My wiring melted from exhaust pipes and would start sporadically.  Changed out starters, batterys, cables and when we pulled the engine noticed the melted wiring.  Once that was fixed the car ran great.  Now I have five starters, three alternators and various switches that lead from the battery to the starter.  Simple fix but I replaced everything but the right part in my search.

[06Daytona]

It was the ammeter. The nut on the red side came off no problem, but when I got to the black side the stud just spun and the needle fell off. Once I connected the two wires and remembered that I pulled the battery out on the weekend, it started on the first try. My voltmeter works properly now, and the engine sounds a little healthier. My 440 should be done this week so the car is all ready for the transplant now.

[GranCuda1970]

  Great troubleshoot!

[dodj]

Great you found the problem! 

Were there any visual clues from the ammeter gauge face that it had heated up? Just curious.

[06Daytona]

The only clue I had was that it wasn't reading anymore. When I bought the car the gauge moved when it was running but it stopped around the same time that the battery stopped charging.