Author Topic: reccomend some front shocks?  (Read 3689 times)

Offline The4ork

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Re: reccomend some front shocks?
« Reply #15 on: March 25, 2012 - 11:42:13 PM »
few hundred here and then when i got the $... so piecing it together over a period of time




Offline HP2

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Re: reccomend some front shocks?
« Reply #16 on: March 26, 2012 - 11:01:03 AM »
This is the toughest way to do it, so you have to make sure you have the plan for the final results all figured out and then you can work towards it. Change anything along the way and you can potentially undo what you've already worked towards.

If you just need to get it on the road and have the original suspension, the I'll stick with Monroe Gas Matics as the low cost suggestion to get you rolling with something that is miles ahead of the orginal oil shock package.

If you are looking for longer term package approach, perhaps utilizing the Hotchkis components would make the most sense. As time allows you can spend a few hundred bucks on each component until completed. Start with a pair of front Bilsteins. Then rear Bilsteins. Then a front sway bar. Next, rear sway bar. After that, torsion bars. Next would be leaf springs. If  you are still wanting more, then maybe the upper control arms, and finally the bump steer correction tie rods.

The drawback to this approach is that while shocks and sway bars are bolt on deals, once you start swapping t-bars, control arms and tie rods, you will need to get an alignmnet after every change. This will inflate the budget compared to putting those items on as a package.

Speaking of alignment, getting an alignment that is more radial tire friendly, assuming your using radials, is also a key part of this. Radials tolerate a wider range of adjustment than the original bias plys, so if you put the original alignment specs on the car, you are giving up potential performance.  If you haven't done so already, I'd suggest as much positive caster as possible, up to 4-5 degrees. Add negative camber of .5 degrees. Total toe in should be 1/16 of an inch of the equivilent amount in degrees.

Offline dodj

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Re: reccomend some front shocks?
« Reply #17 on: March 26, 2012 - 11:07:38 AM »
and finally the bump steer correction tie rods.
 
What are these?
Scott
1973 Challenger  440 4 spd 
2007.5 3500 6.7 Cummins Diesel, Anarchy tuned.
Good friends don't let friends do stupid things. ........alone.

Offline The4ork

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Re: reccomend some front shocks?
« Reply #18 on: March 26, 2012 - 11:11:47 AM »
are you talking bilstein sports? bc that was what i was thinking about purchasing before i decided to post on the forum for advice.

the main thing i need to do is get the old shocks out, they appear to be leaking which leads me to believe their also blown and useless. the ride feels 'springy' like im riding around on chopped springs (in a coil/strut car)

and i also really need to get rid of the orig. rubber joints and bushings - i have a poly kit to install. some of them are extremely worn (all except the tie rods thankfully, i can steer straight)


Offline dodj

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Re: reccomend some front shocks?
« Reply #20 on: March 26, 2012 - 11:44:32 AM »
Thanks for the link PlumCrazrt.
I don't understand how they could effect bump steer though, unless they are referring to the rigidity of the adjusting sleeve over stock. Tie rod ends have nothing to do with it?  :clueless:
Scott
1973 Challenger  440 4 spd 
2007.5 3500 6.7 Cummins Diesel, Anarchy tuned.
Good friends don't let friends do stupid things. ........alone.

Offline MizzouRT

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Re: reccomend some front shocks?
« Reply #21 on: March 26, 2012 - 12:40:29 PM »
When I asked them (before I found this forum) Hotchkis recommended the Bilstein shocks to go with their suspension...
Daily Driver: 2013 Challenger SRT 6 speed
Toy: 1970 Challenger

Offline PlumCraZRT

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Re: reccomend some front shocks?
« Reply #22 on: March 26, 2012 - 01:01:55 PM »
Thanks for the link PlumCrazrt.
I don't understand how they could effect bump steer though, unless they are referring to the rigidity of the adjusting sleeve over stock. Tie rod ends have nothing to do with it?  :clueless:

One side (I believe the inboard side) has spacers to move the ball joint down.  What this does, is makes it so the wheel and tie rod follow the same arc so that steering does not change through suspension travel.
mmmmm.... Mopar.... *drool*