Author Topic: Master Cylinder Bore Size?  (Read 3789 times)

Offline 1970 RT Challenger 1970

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Master Cylinder Bore Size?
« on: March 22, 2012 - 07:12:59 PM »
What is the correct Master Cylinder Bore Size for a 70 Challenger with Factory Front Discs/Rear Drums?

Some Online Catalogs show 1" and 1-1/8" Bore?

What happens if you install the wrong size of bore?  Not enough Brakes or Too much Brake action too soon?

Thanks.




Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Master Cylinder Bore Size?
« Reply #1 on: March 22, 2012 - 09:46:10 PM »
smaller bore = more travel to apply the same pressure
Larger bore = harder pedal feel , less travel

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Offline 1970 RT Challenger 1970

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Re: Master Cylinder Bore Size?
« Reply #2 on: March 22, 2012 - 10:00:38 PM »
Thanks CP,

What would you do? (I have PB as well)

What size came from the factory? 1" or 1-1/8"


Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Master Cylinder Bore Size?
« Reply #3 on: March 22, 2012 - 10:38:55 PM »
not sure or I would answered that as well

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Offline JH27N0B

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Re: Master Cylinder Bore Size?
« Reply #4 on: March 24, 2012 - 11:26:34 AM »
Most disc brake E bodies used a 1" diameter bore master cylinder in 1970.  The exception was hemi cars with disc brakes which used a 1-1/8" bore master cylinder.
All '70 drum brake E bodies used a 1" bore master cylinder, however, this master cylinder was completely different than the disc brake part. 
The '70 E body disc master cylinder was a 1 year only part and very rare to find today.  There is no equivalent available on the aftermarket, nor is there a kit available to rebuild an original.  However, there are kits available with correct seals that can be used to rebuild an original MC if the original's pistons and springs are in good shape.
In the past I've used a 1-1/8" master cylinder on my non-hemi '70 disc brake Challenger and it worked fairly well- as mentioned, the pedal was a little hard and I found the rears were quick to lock up if I braked hard.  I've also used a '71-up disc brake master cylinder which has a 1-1/32" diameter bore and it worked pretty good. I've currently got a rebuilt original on my convertible and no question it's the best overall of the 3 on my car but the 1-1/32 style is the best 2nd choice if you can't find an original 1" bore MC.
Whatever you do, don't put a 1" bore drum master on your car, which is what I've seen a lot of people do.  There is a much lesser fluid capacity in the main reservoir and you risk not having enough fluid to operate your calipers as the pads wear if you aren't diligent about keeping the fluid level topped off!

Offline 1970 RT Challenger 1970

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Re: Master Cylinder Bore Size?
« Reply #5 on: March 24, 2012 - 02:03:59 PM »
Thanks for all the replies guys! Some real good info there.

Offline Cuda Gooding

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Re: Master Cylinder Bore Size?
« Reply #6 on: March 27, 2012 - 03:36:09 PM »
smaller bore = more travel to apply the same pressure
Larger bore = harder pedal feel , less travel

Also:
smaller bore = higher pressure on pads/shoes with same foot pressure on pedal
(Assuming piston in master cylinder doesn't reach end of travel first, which is a very bad thing.)

Larger bore = lower pressure on pads/shoes with same foot pressure on pedal
(Only change to a larger bore in the master cylinder if you've changed to larger pistons in the calipers, or larger wheel cylinders in the drums. You want the ratio of "piston surface area in the master cylinder" to "piston surface area in the calipers and wheel cylinders" to stay the same.)