Is that my rear main seal leaking?

[351c4v71]

I'm about to change my oil pan and reinstall my tranny when I noticed a slow leak (see picture in the blue square), I get a drop of oil that gathers at the bottom of that wheel where the flywheel bolts onto. Will changing my rear main seal fix this? And can I do it through the bottom of the engine with the engine still in the car?
Thanks

[PlumCraZRT]

I'm about to change my oil pan and reinstall my tranny when I noticed a slow leak (see picture in the blue square), I get a drop of oil that gathers at the bottom of that wheel where the flywheel bolts onto. Will changing my rear main seal fix this? And can I do it through the bottom of the engine with the engine still in the car?
Thanks

So the box you drew is pointed it a metal piece.  It's no very likely that the oil is leaking through the metal piece.

If you take a look here, you can see what the metal piece looks like and where all the sealing surfaces are: http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/rearmainbear.html

If you drop the pan, you should be able to replace all the seals around that metal piece, but you will not be able to (easily) replace the seal above the crankshaft.

[72cudamaan]

So the box you drew is pointed it a metal piece.  It's no very likely that the oil is leaking through the metal piece.

If you take a look here, you can see what the metal piece looks like and where all the sealing surfaces are: http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/rearmainbear.html

If you drop the pan, you should be able to replace all the seals around that metal piece, but you will not be able to (easily) replace the seal above the crankshaft.

He said that oil collects at the bottom of the metal piece. Give him some credit.  Anyway, that "metal piece" is
the crankshaft flange. And just behind it is the rear main seal. Yes it can be replaced without pulling the motor. But
you mentioned that the car has a flywheel (meaning manual trans? ). So check the crankshaft endplay and make
sure that it isn't excessive. That will lead to a seal never sealing for any length of time.

[PlumCraZRT]

He said that oil collects at the bottom of the metal piece. Give him some credit.  Anyway, that "metal piece" is
the crankshaft flange. And just behind it is the rear main seal. Yes it can be replaced without pulling the motor. But
you mentioned that the car has a flywheel (meaning manual trans? ). So check the crankshaft endplay and make
sure that it isn't excessive. That will lead to a seal never sealing for any length of time.

The "metal piece" i was referring to was the rear main seal retainer...  I didn't know the technical name for it at the time.  I was saying it's not likely oil is leaking through it (maybe it would if it were cracked?).  I was trying to say you can easily replace all the seals around the retainer.

Obviously no oil would leak through the crank flange.

[351c4v71]

How do I go about checking the crakshaft end play ?
It's a manual transmision with a 440.

Is this the part to buy?

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/remasereb.html

Thanks.

JS

[Chryco Psycho]

yes that is the rear main seal kit . the seal could be leaking or the windage back there could be pulling oil from a leaky oil sender or pan gasket .
 I would use right stuff sealant to seal the rear main cap if you do pull it

[BS CUDA]

 I would suggest you do yourself a favor and order the complete Mancini aluminum rear main retainer and seal kit. Install it as directed and forget it.

[Toastyyosty]

Best thing to do is replace it while you have the pan off. It's only a couple more nuts and bolts.. If it doesnt turn out to be more serious then just a leaking seal. 

[Cooter]

Hell, If that's all mine leaked, I'd be done left it alone.

[Chryco Psycho]

Make sure the lip of th seal faces inwards , the upper 1/2 can be hard to install , it is possible to make it worse , I use Right Stuff sealer  & fill the gap between the block & seal plate with sealer inside the pan 

[351c4v71]

First I need to remove the oil pan. I already removed all the bolts.
Now I have the centerlink in the way. I've loosened the 4 bolts holding it (see blue box on pic) but it is really jammed there. Car is jacked on frame. Hoe do I go about removing the center link when the bolts are out??

[Toastyyosty]

Assuming you don't have an air hammer to Split the two, just take a good hammer and hit the centerlink right were the two joints go threw. It'll shock the joints and shake them loose. You should then be able to drop it enough to get the pan off.

[PlumCraZRT]

Assuming you don't have an air hammer to Split the two, just take a good hammer and hit the centerlink right were the two joints go threw. It'll shock the joints and shake them loose. You should then be able to drop it enough to get the pan off.

I would leave the tie rod fastened on to the centerlink if possible.  I would think you could get the pan out with the tie rods still in place.  It might save you a seal or two. 

[Moparal]

Advanced auto rents a tie rod seperator tool, it's a puller. No whacking involved. Very little charge to

[Chryco Psycho]

often a good blow with a hammer will pop the joints apart without using a pickle fork to split them & wrecking the seals , you only need to remove two on one side of the link & the link will swing out of the way ,
 Checking end play you can use a pry bar between the crank flange & block & pry the crank back , tap it forward again with a hammer . End play should be about .010 basically if you can feel much play it is too much but the only way to fix it is to replace the main brg & or crank