Author Topic: Clock adjust cable repair  (Read 1694 times)

Offline spamtank

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Clock adjust cable repair
« on: April 08, 2012 - 12:17:55 PM »
A year and a half ago, I rebuilt the rallye gauge cluster in my SE.  At the time I rebuilt the clock using the quartz movement kit for RT-Eng/Dash-Worx (http://rt-eng.com/dash-worx/index.php/Dash-Worx_E_Body_Clock_kit).  Shortly after that, I was no longer able to adjust the clock, after disconnecting the battery.  So, for the last year, I had to precisely time when I connected the battery cable to start the clock at the proper time.  That kinda sucked. 

This weekend, I removed the placeholder AM radio to put an AM/FM radio back in.  I discovered that the plastic tubing of the adjuster cable had blown out right next to the clock.  I really didn't want to spend the $100 + on a replacement cable at the moment.  So I devised a repair, that I thought I would share with anyone else that might have the same problem. 

I used a few small hose clamps, and a short length of rigid plastic tubing.  I split the tubing on the inside of the curve so that when I slipped it over the damaged section, it would provide support to the flexible shaft when pushed in and turned to adjust the clock.  As mentioned, I slipped the tubing over the existing tubing with enough overlap for a hose clamp on each end.  The end that terminates on the brass fitting allowed the clamp to be tightened fairly tight.  Be careful not to over tighten the clamp on the existing tubing, otherwise you will pinch the flexible shaft and it won't turn (ask me how I know).  I also added a drop of superglue between the old and new tubing along with the hose clamp. 

Once reinstalled, the clock now adjusts easier than it ever has.  Hope this helps someone else some day.

Rick, Manchester, NH
1970 SE 383 2V AT Challenger
1977 M882/W200 Power Wagon
2013 RT Plus 6M




Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: Clock adjust cable repair
« Reply #1 on: March 02, 2013 - 12:24:00 AM »
A year and a half ago, I rebuilt the rallye gauge cluster in my SE.  At the time I rebuilt the clock using the quartz movement kit for RT-Eng/Dash-Worx (http://rt-eng.com/dash-worx/index.php/Dash-Worx_E_Body_Clock_kit).  Shortly after that, I was no longer able to adjust the clock, after disconnecting the battery.  So, for the last year, I had to precisely time when I connected the battery cable to start the clock at the proper time.  That kinda sucked. 

This weekend, I removed the placeholder AM radio to put an AM/FM radio back in.  I discovered that the plastic tubing of the adjuster cable had blown out right next to the clock.  I really didn't want to spend the $100 + on a replacement cable at the moment.  So I devised a repair, that I thought I would share with anyone else that might have the same problem. 

I used a few small hose clamps, and a short length of rigid plastic tubing.  I split the tubing on the inside of the curve so that when I slipped it over the damaged section, it would provide support to the flexible shaft when pushed in and turned to adjust the clock.  As mentioned, I slipped the tubing over the existing tubing with enough overlap for a hose clamp on each end.  The end that terminates on the brass fitting allowed the clamp to be tightened fairly tight.  Be careful not to over tighten the clamp on the existing tubing, otherwise you will pinch the flexible shaft and it won't turn (ask me how I know).  I also added a drop of superglue between the old and new tubing along with the hose clamp. 

Once reinstalled, the clock now adjusts easier than it ever has.  Hope this helps someone else some day.




This is a terrific solution to a likely and very common problem.  My clock cable needs this fix.  I'm glad I found this post.  Better than paying close to $100 for new/repop.
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.

Offline spamtank

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Re: Clock adjust cable repair
« Reply #2 on: March 02, 2013 - 09:46:50 AM »
I'm happy that this has helped someone.  Almost a year later, and it's still working great.
Rick, Manchester, NH
1970 SE 383 2V AT Challenger
1977 M882/W200 Power Wagon
2013 RT Plus 6M

Offline 67vertman

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Re: Clock adjust cable repair
« Reply #3 on: March 02, 2013 - 01:21:13 PM »
I too need to fix my cable, this is a great tip.  I will give it a try.



Ron - Born and raised in Southern California

I got the 1970 Cuda, but still need the hot blonde to ride shotgun!

First car -1969 Road Runner 383 4sp

Current ride - 1970 Barracuda 440-6 4 sp Dana 60  (4:10)

Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: Clock adjust cable repair
« Reply #4 on: March 02, 2013 - 03:21:37 PM »
I'm happy that this has helped someone.  Almost a year later, and it's still working great.


I know there's another alternative to buying new and this simple fix, and that is to send out your damaged cable to have a whole new sheath installed.  I found at least one restoration service provider that can do this ( http://www.performancecargraphics.com/Dash_Stuff/Restoration/70-74_E-body_Rallye.htm ).  I don't know how they do it onsidering the crimped collars that hold the sheath in place.  Any ideas about that approach.  Their price is reasonable (IMO).
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.

Offline spamtank

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Clock adjust cable repair
« Reply #5 on: March 02, 2013 - 05:48:08 PM »
I'll have to look into that restoration service.  It's amazing what people have found ways to restore.

I've thought about finding a damaged cable at Carlisle and attempting to restore it properly.  You might be able to reshape the crimped part and have another go at it, which is what I would try.  But the brass has probably work hardened, and would be prone to cracking.
Rick, Manchester, NH
1970 SE 383 2V AT Challenger
1977 M882/W200 Power Wagon
2013 RT Plus 6M