what are the pros and cons vs power disc or manual disk brake conversion kits

[Barracudadan]

I am considering switching to front disk brakes from my manual drums, but not sure if I should go with the power discs or non-power disc brakes. My other problem is I currently have 14" rim/tires does anyone make a kit for 14" rim/tires combos? I know I would be better off just going with 15" rally`s for the larger rotors and better stopping power. Just hate to spend the money for new rims/tires.

Edited to add: 72 Barracuda with a stock 318

[ChallengerHK]

The stock power systems from the era are very touchy and give you practically no pedal feel. That being said, those systems can be upgraded to give you better feel, but you should take that cost and effort part of the equation.

[MEK-Dangerfield]

I've got 73-76 A-body disc brakes on my front end. Non-power, but that's probably a good thing with my big cam. The brakes work just fine, but I don't do anything crazy either.

[GranCuda1970]

You can go with era refurbished parts from theRamman.com , brake lines from roseveille, and bigger rotor 11.75 and A-body brakes 73-76 repops. You will need the A-body cables I found out the hard way. This system will appear stock and will still be all mopar and will brake better than origional. Also still avail at most parts stores. Hell I was surprised today I went to autozone and a few other local parts shops and found e-body parts still avail. You can still get all of the sending units, light bulbs, powertrain parts.

[brads70]

If your not concerned with "originality" or "correct" another system to research is the hydroboost system. There are a few posts on here to look at from members that have done the swap. The nice thing about hydroboost is that if down the road you want to install a bigger cam , this style of braking uses no vacuum like the stock set up uses.

Here are some links to read and get an idea...?
http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=81253.msg814459#msg814459
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=67422.0

[HP2]

You can go with era refurbished parts from theRamman.com , brake lines from roseveille, and bigger rotor 11.75 and A-body brakes 73-76 repops.

Those won't fit under a 14" wheel.

The wheel choice will limit you to a 10.5" rotor, or basically what was stock on most cars of the era.

[GranCuda1970]

This is true!!

[72bluNblu]

My Challenger was set up with power disks from the factory, not a bad set up. Nothing wrong with manual brakes either though, and if you've got a big cam or are planning a rebuild with one you might consider staying manual, since you may not have the vacuum to run the power brakes.

With 14" wheels you'll pretty much only be able to run the stock size brakes, 10.87" will be as big as you can go. And if you're doing that I would just find the parts instead of buying a whole kit, but that's just me. Anything larger than that will require an upgrade to 15" (or larger) rims.

Switching over to the Mopar disks is pretty easy, you just need set of later spindles, caliper brackets, calipers, brake hoses, a disk/drum master and a new proportioning valves. Calipers, hoses and the master cylinder are all available at places like RockAuto or your local Napa, I wouldn't even mess with used stuff for those. Spindles are pretty easy to find, unlike what that article says you CAN use F/J/M body spindles. The change the geometry slightly because they're taller, but it's actually a more beneficial than negative change. I was just at the local wrecking yard yesterday, there were several donor cars that spindles and 10.87" brakes could have come off. It's actually pretty easy, with a pickle fork, hammer and a couple of wrenches you can have everything from the spindle out in half an hour. Spindles can also be purchased new now if you don't want to mess with it.

Only thing I can't remember is if the '70-'72 e-bodies used smaller upper ball joints. If they did, I know Doctor Diff makes a set of sleeves to use the original UCA's and ball joints with later spindles.

I've got a couple of set of "slider" type caliper brackets for the 10.87" brakes too if you need a set, I'm in the process of upgrading all of my cars to the 11.75" rotor.

[1970 RT Challenger 1970]

 

[msbaugh]

Some people may not like them but I used a right stuff disc brake conversion kit that came with everything I needed.  I have 14s on front and had no issues, I believe the rotors were 11 inches. (*i think* correct me if I'm wrong, I did the switch over a year ago) You can order all new lines, rotors, master cylinder, calipers etc. for $700 I believe is what I paid. probably a little more for a booster

But honestly you don't need power brakes, you can stop just as good with a manual set up you just have to be willing to press down harder when you need to, nothing difficult.  But I'm different than most, I think manual steering and brakes are better because it keeps you more involved while your driving (plus you don't have to worry about vacuum for the brakes) 

[msbaugh]

Those won't fit under a 14" wheel.

The wheel choice will limit you to a 10.5" rotor, or basically what was stock on most cars of the era.

Are you sure it's 10.5? I thought that I was able to fit an 11'' rotor with out issues on 14'' wheels, (maybe I just have the size wrong in my head and am remembering wrong)   

[V02Barracuda]

I went with the 73-76 a-body set up (manual) from inline-tube.  Why I chose them I'll never know.  I'm happy with my set-up but very unhappy with the vendor.  A true nightmare.  Eventually, it all got cleared up.

Anyway, I chose manual because it takes up less real-estate under the hood.  Nice clean look.  I believe 15" wheels are in your future. 

[HP2]

Are you sure it's 10.5? I thought that I was able to fit an 11'' rotor with out issues on 14'' wheels, (maybe I just have the size wrong in my head and am remembering wrong)   

Like 72bluNblu pointed out, 10.87 is the biggest 14" compatible sizerotor that  mopar put on a factory application. A number of aftermarket suppliers actually only use 10.5, like Wilwood for instance.  My goof.

[BIGSHCLUNK]

I HAD MANUAL DRUM 

Went with SSBC (cant really say why other than at the time the most for the least $ ) .  4 piston calipers and slotted rotors. We did the job in about 6-7 hrs. This included a trip tip the parts store for some brake line and lunch.  I think that was 4 years ago. Have had NO issues and plenty of WHOA after get up an go! Kept it manual and I still brake with 1 foot, pedal feel is not extreme by any means.   

BTW 15" wheels