Author Topic: Auto to manual conversion: how difficult?  (Read 29964 times)

Offline IroquoisPliskin

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Re: Auto to manual conversion: how difficult?
« Reply #30 on: January 31, 2013 - 11:42:30 AM »
Hey guys! When I decide to put the A833 in my car, should I then take the 23 spline or is it better to try to get the 18 spline version. Does it play any role? What would be the differences/advantages between the both? By the way my engine is 383 currently with A727 transmission.
Thanks!


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Offline HP_Cuda

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Re: Auto to manual conversion: how difficult?
« Reply #31 on: January 31, 2013 - 12:27:53 PM »

Your 383 can easily use the 23 spline unless you are building a stroker beast which you plan to hook up.
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Offline JoeGrapes

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Re: Auto to manual conversion: how difficult?
« Reply #32 on: January 31, 2013 - 06:23:01 PM »
I converted mine about 10 years ago. It was a piece of cake. Every thing bolted right in. Since my welder burned out I just glued the hump to the floor and sealed around inside and out with seam sealer. No problems at all. I didn't even weld in the Z bar bracket. I modified it a little and bolted it in. Unless you stick your head all the down there and look real close you can't tell. Use the common 23 spline trans. The 18 spline is a Hemi unit and will cost you about 3 times as much. As for the peddles, on 1970 cars  they had angled sides and were expensive. I found a set from later years cheap and since the factory made the peddles wider I just cut them down to the 1970 shape. After I took the 727 out the crank even had the bushing already pressed  in.  All the parts you need are readily available and the swap is simple.   

Offline 7071 challenger

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Re: Auto to manual conversion: how difficult?
« Reply #33 on: January 31, 2013 - 09:05:59 PM »
Hello guys! As I'm still thinking about a conversion from auto to manual I requested a quote for a conversion kit from Keisler and from Hurst Drivelines. The prices seem comparable in both cases, however Hurst's offer is slightly lower and the delivery conditions are more attractive. It seems that Keisler's kit contains everything what is needed to complete the conversion and the Hurst's kit is missing some parts (e.g. pedal assembly). I want to ask if somone of you has experience with one or both of those providers. I have read in another thread that Keisler have some problems to keep their own delivery schedule. On the other hand Hurst  seem to have everything in stock but I'm not quite sure what parts I will need in addition to their kit. If someone successfuly used Hurst's kit, please tell me what else will be required and where to get it.
Thanks!
I don't know about these two companies, but, what you will be missing are things like 1)Carpet (auto and manual are different), 2) Clutch safety switch, (hard to find and expensive), 3) Wiring, A) the one that goes to the transmission,B) the reverse light & wiring in your dash 4) Console top plate, (auto and manual are different). 5) Flywheel & clutch bolts
Also, make shure you get the shifter adapter that bolts to the transmission. You need that plate to secure the mechanish to the transmission.
When you will drop the auto trans, MAKE SHURE YOUR ENGINE'S CRANKSHAFT HAS ROOM TO INSTALL THE TRANSMISSION'S INPUT SHAFT BUSHING. This is VERY important, otherwise, you won't be able to install your transmission, as the input shift will hit the crank before the transmission sits to the bellhousing. 
I am in the same boat right now. I am restoring my car and I thought it was a good opportunity to do it.  Good luck
Robert

Offline Sleepychallenger

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Re: Auto to manual conversion: how difficult?
« Reply #34 on: February 01, 2013 - 10:07:09 AM »
I don't know about these two companies, but, what you will be missing are things like 1)Carpet (auto and manual are different), 2) Clutch safety switch, (hard to find and expensive), 3) Wiring, A) the one that goes to the transmission,B) the reverse light & wiring in your dash 4) Console top plate, (auto and manual are different). 5) Flywheel & clutch bolts
Also, make shure you get the shifter adapter that bolts to the transmission. You need that plate to secure the mechanish to the transmission.
When you will drop the auto trans, MAKE SHURE YOUR ENGINE'S CRANKSHAFT HAS ROOM TO INSTALL THE TRANSMISSION'S INPUT SHAFT BUSHING. This is VERY important, otherwise, you won't be able to install your transmission, as the input shift will hit the crank before the transmission sits to the bellhousing. 
I am in the same boat right now. I am restoring my car and I thought it was a good opportunity to do it.  Good luck
Robert

I know it probably isnt the right thing to do...but I avoided the 2) Clutch safety switch, (hard to find and expensive),  3) Wiring, A) the one that goes to the transmission,B) the reverse light & wiring in your dash .... We just bypassed the wire to ground that way I didnt have to worry about that switch and used the Auto wiring harness. my reverse light doesnt work and I didnt do the dash reverse light...all depends on how much you want instant and how much you decide you can wait for.

Offline IroquoisPliskin

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Re: Auto to manual conversion: how difficult?
« Reply #35 on: February 02, 2013 - 08:16:19 PM »
I guess I could live without the clutch safety switch. It doesn't seem to be really necessary, but the reverse light should better be working.
Guys do you know if it is possible to modify A833 to have an overdrive. I will go highway a lot and this could make sense in that case.


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Offline Jamiez

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Re: Auto to manual conversion: how difficult?
« Reply #36 on: February 02, 2013 - 08:23:22 PM »
The reverse light harness is repopped and so is the reverse light itself so that shouldn't be an issue.

Offline dfark

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Re: Auto to manual conversion: how difficult?
« Reply #37 on: February 04, 2013 - 08:44:48 PM »
This thread has been very valuable to me.    What about the Tremec 5 spd?   Do the same modifications apply as far as tunnel hump,  Z bar and driveshaft?     My car is stripped all the way down too so now is the time.     What are your thoughts on the tremec vs. the 833?   :working:
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Offline 7071 challenger

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Re: Auto to manual conversion: how difficult?
« Reply #38 on: February 04, 2013 - 09:54:07 PM »
I guess I could live without the clutch safety switch. It doesn't seem to be really necessary, but the reverse light should better be working.
Guys do you know if it is possible to modify A833 to have an overdrive. I will go highway a lot and this could make sense in that case.
If you buy a newer transmission from a truck, (pick-up or van), it already has an overdrive, but the case is aluminium. The bearing retainer is not the same size and I think bearings inside are smaller, but it does the job if you don't go drag racing. The front bearing retainer is wider, so, make shure it is compatible with your bellhousing. These are A833, but the internal is different. Accelaration won't be as good as a regular A833.  The Overdrive unit is a little like a 3 speed with an overdrive. I'm not a transmission expert, but if I remember well, the 3-4 lever on the side cover has to be inverted of you install the OD tranny, otherwise, when you will select the 3rd gear, you will be in overdrive and when you select 4th gear, you will be in 3rd gear. You can learn more if you read that interesting article ar Allpar.com

http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/four-speed-manual.html

Robert

Offline IroquoisPliskin

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Re: Auto to manual conversion: how difficult?
« Reply #39 on: February 05, 2013 - 01:45:19 PM »
I was considering the TKO from Hurst and Keisler but I was told to better stay away from Keisler. Hurst seemed to have a nice solution but they have discontinued the mopar line.
I think the new 855 from Passon would be nice option but people are waiting since more than two years for it to be available, so I will probably go on with the stock A833.
@7071 challenger: Thanks, very nice article!


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Offline dfark

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Re: Auto to manual conversion: how difficult?
« Reply #40 on: February 05, 2013 - 04:37:41 PM »
What about American Powertrain?   They have an add in Mopar Muscle magazine this month for an E-body tremec conversion.   Anyone have any experience with this company?
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Offline IroquoisPliskin

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Re: Auto to manual conversion: how difficult?
« Reply #41 on: February 09, 2013 - 09:15:08 AM »
Does anyone know if the carpet color is related somehow to the interior code? I have no acces to any carpet dealer and cannot compare real samples to the actual carpet in my car. To chose the color relaying just on pictures seems not to be the best way to go.


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Offline 7071 challenger

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Re: Auto to manual conversion: how difficult?
« Reply #42 on: February 10, 2013 - 08:47:08 AM »
Does anyone know if the carpet color is related somehow to the interior code? I have no acces to any carpet dealer and cannot compare real samples to the actual carpet in my car. To chose the color relaying just on pictures seems not to be the best way to go.
In most cases, the carpet was black, but it depends on your interior color. If the interior is black or white, the carpet will be black, (they were no white carpet) then if it's blue, the carpet will be blue, if it's green, the carpet will be green, if it's red, it will be red and so on, but since a high percentage of those cars had black interiors, the carpet was, in most cases, black. What color is your interior?

Robert

Offline IroquoisPliskin

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Re: Auto to manual conversion: how difficult?
« Reply #43 on: February 10, 2013 - 10:16:14 AM »
My interior is coded with H6T7, which is tan. The current carpet is kind of saddle, but when I put the 4 speed in it needs to be replaced. Now I'm trying to get the replacement for that. The problem is that it is very difficult to judge the ressemblance from the picture only and there are no samples available for me to compare with my current carpet in vivo. I think in worst case I will use a standard black carpet before ordering maybe not matching brown color. I'm just not quite sure if it is gonna look good in my car.


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Offline IroquoisPliskin

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Re: Auto to manual conversion: how difficult?
« Reply #44 on: July 02, 2013 - 07:22:39 AM »
Hello Guys! As I'm getting closer to starting the conversion I'd like to ask some more questions. I got my transmission from Brewer's and I'm satisfied so far. It looks like the pilot bushing is missing in my set, but I received the pilot roller bearing instead (see pics). Is it correct that way? I hope so. Except that the optional over center spring and pin seem not required when using diaphragm style (18 finger) pressure plate. Can you confirm that?
Does anyone know if there are some assembly diagrams/pictures here on the forum, as guidance through the conversion?
Thanks!


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