SURVIVOR vs. GROUND-UP RESTORATION!

[hemiken]

Hi Kenny!  You can also wipe the surface of a new container of RPM with a cloth to penetrate the top layer if it has skinned over.  We are in the process of making a series of application videos of the product.  I'll keep you posted.

Thank you Dave, what is the expected release of the video applications please I will check and see if they are skinned over in the meantime, maybe the dramatic temperature sequences the product went through has made it more solid than usual caused by the flight over in the belly of a plane with the rest of the mail

[moparman82]

I'm constantly skipping past this thread, every once in a while I will open it up to see where it's going, and every time I do I find that 70% of the posts on the page that day consist of 2 arrogant self indulgent know-it-alls fighting over who REALLY knows it all.  Getting ridiculous, please admin, please lock this thread so we don't have to see it at the top of the screen every F-ing day.

[resq302]

Honestly, I find this thread VERY informative!  If you don't like what you read, don't open it!

Dave, I have a question regarding the glass in the car.  I am going over the glass on Dad's GTX as we were told it is all original (which is why I am trying to save the windshield since it has the scratches from the wipers).  Is there a way to break down the codes for the etchings in the glass?  I know the windshield in the lower dead center part of the windshield has either the DCPC logo or the penta star with some other numbers around it.  I'd love to try and verify that they are the original (dated) glass to the car.

[resq302]

   LOTS of information in that small area!

[resq302]

I am always leary when it comes to using parts that have either rubber or paper elements in them and are that old.  That is the main reason why I would never put a NOS green oil filter onto my expensive engine and why I repainted a modern high quality filter to look like one from the factory.     Sometimes functionality vs. originality takes presidence.   

[resq302]

Dave,

I am getting ready to repaint the upper door frames and interior parts on Dad's 69 GTX vert.  Being that the interior was unmolested with the exception of the seat covers and carpeting, I was wondering if you might be able to post some pics of the Valaint with the before and after pics of the paint so as we can try and match the proper sheen and/or "acceptable" amount of orange peel.  I also realize that it might be comparing apples to oranges as the interior color is T7 which has some metallic in it also which will probably throw the sheen off.

[resq302]

Interesting that they did the black out treatment on a black car.

[resq302]

Yup!  The good 'ol human factor!   

[resq302]

I did notice the spray pattern with the doors frames.  Seems like the interior paint color was painted first, masked off, and then the exterior color applied.  I happened to come across this when I was sanding down a chip on the door jam just above the door latch.  There is also a lot of the dark gray dip primer visible on the underside of the drivers side door.  Underside of the pass. side door  had a lot of runs and drips on the bottom of the door as well.

[resq302]

One of the more important aspects of your paint process will be the correct over-spray patterns.  There are many incorrect and contradictory patterns that first time painters try to pass off as being Factory correct.  While searching the internet I came across this particular example.  You can tell that the paint was applied in an UN-natural and  manipulated manner.  More than likely, a detailing spray gun was used to apply the paint behind the pinch weld area, AFTER the initial spraying of the Body.  Also notice the run in the paint but little evidence of over-spray surrounding that large drip.  It is better know as a "rotisserie run" which results from trying to manipulate the paint process.

I gotta say with all of the original paint cars I've seen, I've never seen any that has had a factory finish applied from that low.  Maybe because the assembly line cars were lower to the ground hence making it darn near impossible to get the gun on that much of an upward angle?  Regardless of the angle of spray, there is barely any over spray on the bottoms of the rails vs. the side part of that one area getting total coverage.  I also see a tape line on that one side area of the rail.  Definitely not a factory job!

[mrbill426]

What stencil "style" is that on the axle tube??

 

Hey Brian!  You have been part of this thread as well as the one that just started on another Forum.  It appears a few individuals continue to think that because a vehicle started out as a Survivor, the restoration work MUST have been much "easier" than a vehicle that was just worn out.  I personally do not see the difference between a rusted component on a Survivor versus any other car's rusted parts.  The definition "Survivor" has NOTHING to do with the cosmetic condition of a car or its mileage.  It simply means that a vehicle exhibits all of its original components and has never been altered. 

Take Miss Belvedere for instance.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miss_Belvedere  That vehicle was still a "Survivor" when it was unearthed but I doubt that any automotive Enthusiast would argue that it was at a good starting point for a restoration.  While my Survivor Valiant was not completely worn out, it was in a very "bad" state regarding the cosmetic condition.  I have a question for some of those people who thought this Survivor restoration was simply a "fluff & buff" - "wash & wax" - "clean & detail" project.  Below are some photos that had already been posted earlier in this thread.  Can any of those people explain what "cleaning" or "detailing" process would have restored the components pictured below, from rusted and old to like new condition?  Also, what restoration process is different on a rusted Survivor part versus a rusted part on a vehicle  that is NOT a Survivor?   Thanks!



After - Restored Axle Code Stamping

[mrbill426]

Looks like the same font that is on my '72 axle, the search continues.
Thanks 

It was actually done by hand with a custom made stamp.  I scanned the original art and then re-created the lettering in an Illustrator computer program.  The artwork was then laser cut into a hard rubber hand-stamp that was made to match the original inspection mark.

[mrbill426]

Not sure, there are two places for axle numbers on the broadcast sheet, the first one says 533, the second one says 014.  The 014 was painted in the axle tube.

What is the axle code for your vehicle? 

[mrbill426]

Wow, great news... thanks! 

I have located a font that is almost identical to the one I made up for my numbers.  I will use it to install the numbers you provided and forward the artwork to you on Thursday.  I hope this will help!

[resq302]

Mrbill,

I applaud you for taking the time to research something and do it correctly.  There are way too many people out there who try to make up their own version of how the factory did it, from globbing paint dabs all over areas where they never were to having incorrect paint patterns done.  I've seen way too many cars claim to be OE style paint jobs where it had paint behind areas which it could never possibly have gone unless it defied the laws of physics.  I have also seen the same for where undercoating has been applied behind where it should have never been able to reach if sprayed the same way as the factory would have.

This is why it is so important to be taking as many pictures as one can of an original / unmolested / unrestored car as once they are repaired or restored, there is a good chance that whoever is doing the restoration will not apply stuff in the original manner it was done at the factory.  Prime example would have been if I had painted the body color first and then went to paint the door frame color.  That would have been wrong but fortunately, I noticed the interior color under the body color in the door jam when I was sanding out a chip.