Author Topic: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide (Read 282345 times)

72cudamaan · « **Reply #105 on:** June 06, 2013 - 06:50:03 PM »

Oooohhhh, that's totally different. Never mind. Thanks for the input. Now to continue the search
for the elusive 518. Everything I have found is for a 4x4.

scorpn · « **Reply #106 on:** June 27, 2013 - 04:36:44 PM »

Quote from: mopinaround on June 04, 2013 - 03:13:58 PM

PATC has a deluxe control setup for the A518 for $375. If you look at it closely, it uses a B&M TH400 kickdown switch and a relay. I bought the kickdown switch and a relay from Summit for around $50. It is set so if you push the throttle down about 1� it cuts off the power to the OD and LU solenoids and you�re back in drive. Let up and it shifts back into OD and LU. Works well.

Thanks for that update to the original mod!! It works like a charm!!!
I did the transmission install last spring and have been fighting the vacuum problem ever since. I have a 360 390hp crate motor and the vacuum it produces can be erratic at times (might be the way I drive

) so this solved that problem and just makes the car that much more fun to drive..

Thanks again!!

mopinaround · « **Reply #107 on:** July 03, 2013 - 10:58:01 AM »

You're welcome. I'm glad to add anything I can to the great info posted here. I have one of the older 360/380hp crate motors and I was concerned about the same thing, that there wouldn't be enough vacuum for the vacuum switch wouldn't work properly. I really like this setup and have had zero problems with it. It shifts in and out of OD and LU just as nice as my newer computer controlled car. It is great to be able to get out on the hwy and cruise at 70mph and still have the 3.91 gears for around town. And even in town, above 40mph, it's in OD to help save fuel.

PlumCrazyChris · « **Reply #108 on:** November 13, 2013 - 05:25:19 PM »

Great thread,
I like that gm kickdown switch. Hopefully I'll have enough vacume with my 5.7 when the tune is correct, but right now the vaccum is all over the place so I may have to use one of those.

Thanks for the tip!

moparman82 · « **Reply #109 on:** February 28, 2014 - 10:30:19 AM »

Wow just read through this whole thread, exactly what I needed! This should be a sticky!

360FISH · « **Reply #110 on:** March 01, 2014 - 12:30:08 PM »

Quote from: moparman82 on February 28, 2014 - 10:30:19 AM

Wow just read through this whole thread, exactly what I needed! This should be a sticky!

Cool, thank you... good luck with your swap!

I've had mine for two years now and it's been great!

AZkcar135 · « **Reply #111 on:** September 03, 2014 - 04:40:20 PM »

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but has anyone used this combo with the 5.7 HEMI? It should bolt directly to it right? I was thinking they run crazy HP numbers in those Dakota R/Ts is that the same trans?

PlumCrazyChris · « **Reply #112 on:** September 07, 2014 - 01:35:52 PM »

I have behind my 5.7 i got a spacer kit to put between the trans and the motor. Many folks havent had a problem with it but i went with anyway. I did have a Problem with the starter though with the Tti headers. I ended up with IIRC a 2005 truck manual trans Starter. Then had to grind off some of The block to get It To seat correctly, but It clears the headers fine.

Im actually trying to Get The shifting to work correctly today. It seems like the lockup stays on when i let off The gas Like A man trans (engine braking). The kickdown doesnt seem to Be working correctly either. Not sure there is enough preload/travel On The lokar kd cable, But it Seems fully Extend....

I would never Be sorry to reserrect This thread it is an Awesome one, it really Needs to be put In The tech archive.

6PakFish · « **Reply #113 on:** September 07, 2014 - 10:42:03 PM »

Quote from: 72cudamaan on June 06, 2013 - 06:50:03 PM

Oooohhhh, that's totally different. Never mind. Thanks for the input. Now to continue the search
for the elusive 518. Everything I have found is for a 4x4.

I'm in the beginning of this swap and this thread has been awesome. 72cudaman I got my trans from a core yard for a $100 bucks. It's a 90 2 pin non lock up. Call a trans shop and ask them where they get their cores from.

6PakFish · « **Reply #114 on:** September 07, 2014 - 10:50:53 PM »

Quote from: leanburn on November 19, 2012 - 06:19:03 PM

I'm in the middle of this swap and I'm in the same boat as bkilby, my motor is 3/4" forward. The tranny fits like a glove without trimming but speedo is definitely an issue. My block is a 360 and I used my motor mounts off my 340, I'm sure their all the same

I have the same problem with the speedo location. My car was originally a 340/727. Is the k member different? I thought all small block k members where the same.

leanburn · « **Reply #115 on:** September 07, 2014 - 11:10:03 PM »

went through the same thing, I notched my x member out enough to make it fit though.

PlumCrazyChris · « **Reply #116 on:** September 08, 2014 - 11:19:59 PM »

Ya, my speedo cable hits right into the crossmember too. I had to trim my crossmember and hammer the frame some to get some clearance. Its still really tight though.

If you find a source for a new cable thats slightly longer than stock, please let me know. I'll probably end up replacing mine as well.

leanburn · « **Reply #117 on:** September 08, 2014 - 11:54:43 PM »

http://mrspeedometer.com/

another thing that helped was a bigger speedo gear, that way the piece [ don't know what its called] that slips into the tranny for the speedo connection ends up further away from x member. its not much but it does make a difference. just depends on what gears your running for speedo to be accurate.

Katfish · « **Reply #118 on:** September 09, 2014 - 05:50:48 AM »

I'm right in the middle of this myself. I ended up running the speedo through the x-member.
Cut a hole where it hit by the tranny to enter, and another on the front side by the torsion bar for it to exit.

Katfish · « **Reply #119 on:** December 05, 2014 - 06:18:15 AM »

This thread was the inspiration to do the 518 swap into my 70 340 Challenger. Thanks Alan!

Took mine out for the initial test drive, a few bugs to work out, but it is awesome.
Only 2800 rpm at 75mph, and no vibrations which was a concern. Now I can keep up with the rice burners on I-95 without rattling my teeth.
Here's a shot at 60mph, only 1800rpm and I have 3.73 gears.
Glad I got the LU converter, I can definitely feel it drop a few RPMs when it kicks on, it's like having a 4.5spd auto.

For those of you curious about cost, I kept a detailed record. I didn't include the used KwikLift I bought for $500, it was a lifesaver.
If you can use your existing KD linkage and just use toggle switches (instead of the control circuit) you could save about $400. Both of these items were about $200 each.

I have other pics and details on the parts and PNs used for the control circuit, PM me if you need info.

Author Topic: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide (Read 282345 times)

72cudamaan

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

scorpn

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

mopinaround

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

PlumCrazyChris

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

moparman82

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

360FISH

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

AZkcar135

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

PlumCrazyChris

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

6PakFish

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

6PakFish

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

leanburn

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

PlumCrazyChris

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

leanburn

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

Katfish

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

Katfish

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide