Author Topic: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide (Read 282300 times)

Fontana motorsports · « **Reply #60 on:** July 20, 2012 - 01:25:10 PM »

Your motor is waaaay to far forward(5/8-3/4 in) I would definatly research why its that far forward( k frame shift/wrong motor brackets) just for the other people reading this post THiS IS NOT one of my crossmembers.

Quote from: bkilby on July 19, 2012 - 10:03:39 PM

Lots of great information guys! I haven't ran across this thread until today, but I've already started my swap. Just bolted the tranny in today, just gotta work around all the little stuff now.

A couple of notes though, evidently my engine/trans sits a little farther forward than 360fish's. My speedo cable came out a little in front of the back bracket for the cross member. Not behind it. That introduced a couple of problems. The first was, well, it hit the cross member. The second was the crimped portion of the cable was hitting the upper cross member (is that what you call it?). That and, the cable was being pulled extremely tight to the point where one guy had to pull the cable while I screwed it on. I ended up getting a longer cable made locally but I haven't installed it yet.

We also couldn't get the driveline angles to our liking and ended up trimming both sides of the OD and cutting that upper cross member. The tranny needed to go higher so we clearanced what we felt was necessary and welded plates back in. Different cars, different dimensions I guess.

Anyhow, we'll be working on this again tomorrow to try and get it finished. I still need to order the pressure switch and figure out how I'm going to tap into that right hand port. It's way too close to the tub to just screw it in. Looks like a little hose fabbing is in order.

360fish, I know you're in SoCal. I'm in Burbank. We should get together and talk cars sometime.

Brad (416 SB, Pro Trans A518 Non lock up)

bkilby · « **Reply #61 on:** July 20, 2012 - 02:23:49 PM »

It could be too far forward, it's hard to say. I don't have another car here to compare to. And yes, this isn't your cross member. I hope it didn't come across otherwise.

ragtopdodge · « **Reply #62 on:** July 20, 2012 - 02:59:48 PM »

Quote from: bkilby on July 20, 2012 - 02:23:49 PM

It could be too far forward, it's hard to say. I don't have another car here to compare to. And yes, this isn't your cross member. I hope it didn't come across otherwise.

Is your car a small block or a big-block w/an adapter?

I'm VERY curious on the latter if anyone has done this yet. Still contemplating whether to hack the trans w/a JW Ultrabell or get the more $$ JVX. Or, what Fontana is planning on???

bkilby · « **Reply #63 on:** July 20, 2012 - 03:17:54 PM »

Well, the car was an original 340 car but I'm running Mopar's R3 block in it. We did have to modify the DS motor mount to fit the engine, maybe there are slight differences in the block itself. <shrug>

To me it's not that big of a deal. Putting this tranny in is a modification and with all modifications, there are slight difference between cars. You just gotta expect it and deal with it.

scorpn · « **Reply #64 on:** July 22, 2012 - 12:57:04 AM »

Quote from: 360FISH on July 16, 2012 - 12:53:14 PM

Great pictures Scropn.

Yep, if that speedo gear was just a little bit further back it would scew up the entire modification.

How are you liking the pressure switch setup? Shift point where you want it? Do you have any other pictures of how you hooked it up and wired it?

Did you setup a cutoff switch?

Enjoy!
Alan

The pressure switch setup works very good, so far I like the shift points and tc lock-up point..
I don't have any other pic's of the switch setup, just used the PACT diagram and wiring information..
No cut off switch yet.. Haven't found a need for it so far..
The hardest part was getting the kick down cable adjusted correctly...

Aussie Challenger · « **Reply #65 on:** July 22, 2012 - 04:24:50 AM »

Quote from: scorpn on July 22, 2012 - 12:57:04 AM

The pressure switch setup works very good, so far I like the shift points and tc lock-up point..
I don't have any other pic's of the switch setup, just used the PACT diagram and wiring information..
No cut off switch yet.. Haven't found a need for it so far..
The hardest part was getting the kick down cable adjusted correctly...

What modifications did you do to the auto trans if any or is it standard?
What motor set up are you running, mild or wild?
What rear end ratio are you running?
I am just trying to get a feel for what can be done, if using a low ratio rear it can upset the PATC system sometimes requiring different pressure switches. I have heard of 2 different vac. units fitted to modify the turning on point of one of the pressure switches.

scorpn · « **Reply #66 on:** July 23, 2012 - 07:34:56 PM »

Quote from: Aussie Challenger on July 22, 2012 - 04:24:50 AM

What modifications did you do to the auto trans if any or is it standard?
What motor set up are you running, mild or wild?
What rear end ratio are you running?
I am just trying to get a feel for what can be done, if using a low ratio rear it can upset the PATC system sometimes requiring different pressure switches. I have heard of 2 different vac. units fitted to modify the turning on point of one of the pressure switches.

Standard 518, no shift kit yet, just built with premium parts.. The motor is a 360 Mopar Crate motor pushing 400hp, The rear gear is a 3:23. I run 275/40/18 on the rear and 245/40/18 up front. Also running Hooker headers that do NOT go under the steering linkage!! Nice units.. Shortened the drive shaft 3 inches, think I could of gone with 2 3/4 inches and still been happy.

Aussie Challenger · « **Reply #67 on:** July 24, 2012 - 05:15:40 AM »

Thanks for that info, sounds like a good strong cruiser.

rb70 · « **Reply #68 on:** July 24, 2012 - 10:25:40 AM »

I just did this on my 73 charger, but I went w/PATC kit ($85) and 3 pin connector ($28) and I do not have to flip a toggle switch. Also went w/95 46RH, because I wanted to drive on the highway and it is 500 miles from my house to my daughters. I modded my crossmember by cutting off the old tranny mount and trimming it down the side to about a 1/4" and trimming the inner sides to right next to the bolt holes. Then I got a 1/4" 6"x12" steel plate and made two 2.25" plates, welded one to the topside and one to the bottom and used the rest to hold the tranny mount, then drill 2 1/2" holes through all and put in 2 bolts(was worried about my welds holding, I am not a good welder). 1/4" is probably overkill, but I wanted it to be very strong. And I bought my tranny online from a place in Texas for $1,050 shipped to a local truck terminal. 2 helpful hints, do drain the tranny first(that was my 1st oops) and pre wire the switches and plugs before putting the tranny in place.

rb70 · « **Reply #69 on:** July 27, 2012 - 03:19:08 PM »

Forgot, for a speedo gear, I went w/32 teeth gear from PATC for 3.23 w/15"(27") tires. Do not for get to get a balanced TC for externally balanced engines and match the weight to the small hole in the flywheel.

360FISH · « **Reply #70 on:** July 27, 2012 - 09:09:00 PM »

Quote from: rb70 on July 27, 2012 - 03:19:08 PM

Forgot, for a speedo gear, I went w/32 teeth gear from PATC for 3.23 w/15"(27") tires. Do not for get to get a balanced TC for externally balanced engines and match the weight to the small hole in the flywheel.

Would love to see pictures of what you needed to make this fit a B-Body. I have a friend who might be pressured (by me) to do the same on his 68.

Is there a chart or link to a site which would help me figure out the right speedo gear I need? I'm ~10mph off.

Thanks

Alan

Jamiez · « **Reply #71 on:** July 27, 2012 - 09:12:49 PM »

This should help:

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=81893.0

360FISH · « **Reply #72 on:** July 27, 2012 - 11:35:50 PM »

Quote from: Jamiez on July 27, 2012 - 09:12:49 PM

This should help:

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=81893.0

Thanks! looks like I need a 35 tooth gear.

rb70 · « **Reply #73 on:** August 01, 2012 - 10:53:01 AM »

Quote from: 360FISH on July 27, 2012 - 09:09:00 PM

Would love to see pictures of what you needed to make this fit a B-Body. I have a friend who might be pressured (by me) to do the same on his 68.

Is there a chart or link to a site which would help me figure out the right speedo gear I need? I'm ~10mph off.

Thanks

Alan

I am taking pics, but mine is a 73 and a small block. Though one thing to remember, is that the 727 uses a TC with bolts at 90 degree's and the 93-95 46RH has 3 at 90 degrees and 1 at 91 degree's, so you need a TC for a 96+ 46RH.
Right now I am taking the tranny back out (you do not know how much this pains me), be cause I did not know about the TC bolt pattern. But Nationalwide remanufacturing is sending me one at no charge, thought that was really nice of them, since I did not know enough to tell them that upfront.
Took me 3 weeks to get the tranny ready and installed, course that was working an hour or two at nights and not every night.

roadrunninMark · « **Reply #74 on:** August 06, 2012 - 10:32:17 AM »

Just a quick question, how does the kickdown cable work if you are putting the A500/A518 behind a new hemi (as it is an electronic throttle pedal etc.)? Does the cable hook to the throttle body?

Author Topic: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide (Read 282300 times)

Fontana motorsports

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

bkilby

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

ragtopdodge

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

bkilby

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

scorpn

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

Aussie Challenger

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

scorpn

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

Aussie Challenger

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

rb70

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

rb70

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

360FISH

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

Jamiez

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

360FISH

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

rb70

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide

roadrunninMark

Re: 727 to A518 swap � a novice guide