Brake fluid heating up???

[72Chall77Doba]

One of the theories the mechanics who are trying to fix my car is that the brake fluid is overheating.
They want to put a shield to divert heat from the nearby header away from the proportonary valve.
A) does this make sense
B) what effect would my brake fluid overheating have on the system.

Here is a link to the video of what's happening

my new brakes.wmv

[Chryco Psycho]

could be a possibility , just a thin piece of steel between but not touching either the header or proportioning valve would make a huge difference

[Super Blue 72]

Wow, weird and interesting at the same time but I'm sure it's not a fun situation.

I thought it all made sense until you lifted the brake pedal.  Now I have no idea.    It looks like the pedal comes up a fair amount, almost 2 inches.

Previously I thought if the fluid heated, any air or moisture in the line would apply pressure to the calipers/wheels cylinders activating the brakes, so no brake lights would come on or anything.

After seeing you lift the brake pedal, I dunno now.

Did you recently have any work done on the brake system?  When you lift the brake pedal, do you hear any noise?  When you lifted the pedal I can hear noise from the pedal, is it binding?   

It doesn't make sense given how much the brake pedal came up that the brake light is not on unless the brake swtich is not in the right position. 

I wonder if the pedal is binding at the mastercylinder or the brake pedal assembly is binding? 

BTW- your car looks nice! 

[72Chall77Doba]

Thanks Pyscho & Super Blue-

This has been an ongoing thing since the brakes were converted from manual drum to front disk.
At first, when I would come home, park in the garage & drop the garage door, I noticed the rear brake lites were on.
Once I lifted up the pedal, they went off.

The car has been in & out of the shop the last 8 months, since the conversion.
They changed the master cylinder, booster, and brake lines.
It got somewhat better, but too many times at a stop light, when I remove my foot from the brake the car stands still.
When I lift up the pedal, it starts to really move.

Also when I get up to say 50mph, the engine seems to be laboring, the front end starts bouncing & vibrating-
I pull up the pedal & it's smooth sailing.

Or say I'm at 50mph and take my foot off the gas pedal, the car slows down too quickly.
Reminds me of if you are on cruise control, and you press the button to slow down.
However, as soon as I pull up on that pedal, the car glides along effortlessly.

It seems the pedal returns to a specific spot/height.
When I have to pull up on the pedal, it pulls up an inch or so,
and feels like it's been released from something that is holding it back-
and I don't know what that is.
I don't hear any noises, and it makes that beautiful hunk of metal
no fun to ride.

[dutch]

probably the most stupid question of the day , but is the return spring in the pedal assembly in place? 
wouldn`t boiling fluid cause the brakes to fail when you hit the pedal?   

[72cudamaan]

Did you convert from drum to disc front brakes? Seems like the pedal is binding.
Was the disc pedal linkage used?

[72Chall77Doba]

Thx Dutch & 72Cuda-
Yup the spring is in place, and it starts happening after
the car warms up/is driven a bit.
And it was converted from manual drum, to power assisted drum,
to front power disc.

[ChallengerHK]

wouldn`t boiling fluid cause the brakes to fail when you hit the pedal?   

I would think that boiling fluid would make the fluid much more compressible and lead to a very spongy or even non-existent pedal pressure.

[Chryco Psycho]

I would think that boiling fluid would make the fluid much more compressible and lead to a very spongy or even non-existent pedal pressure.

 I agree , air/gas in the brake lines becomes compressable so the pedal will go soft .
so why is it sticking down ?
 well you have not listed pulling the linkage apart checking for binding ,wear or lack of nylon bushings in the underdash linkage

[BIGSHCLUNK]

I would think that boiling fluid would make the fluid much more compressible and lead to a very spongy or even non-existent pedal pressure.

Agreed! I've driven a mopar w hot brake fluid, and this is what happens!

[72cudamaan]

 
 well you have not listed pulling the linkage apart checking for binding ,wear or lack of nylon bushings in the underdash linkage
[/quote]

I guess that's what I was getting at. Isn't their a different linkage for the disc brakes?

[brads70]

Isen't the pushrod for manual brakes a different lenght that one for power brakes? . I'm just thinking the brakes are "on" because the pushrod is too long? maybe thats why the brake light was on, but can't the brake light switch be adjusted to it goes off ( or am I mixing up the typical GM set up?) but still leaving the brakes "on" causing them to slightly drag?

[ChallengerHK]

That was my first thought too. I think, though, that while that would keep pressure in the brake system and possibly lead to boiling brake fluid, it wouldn't keep the pedal down.

[BIGSHCLUNK]

Isen't the pushrod for manual brakes a different lenght that one for power brakes? . I'm just thinking the brakes are "on" because the pushrod is too long? maybe thats why the brake light was on, but can't the brake light switch be adjusted to it goes off ( or am I mixing up the typical GM set up?) but still leaving the brakes "on" causing them to slightly drag?

SSBC has a master for disc that still uses your original pushrod. NIKKI's got one - never had an issue

[brads70]

SSBC has a master for disc that still uses your original pushrod. NIKKI's got one - never had an issue

Just wondering who's kit the OP is using? Did I miss it?