Engine having problems.

[Chryco Psycho]

& if I was still in Calgary I would be happy to help you , apparently I work too cheap !!

[chongo25]

Where are you located??

Lincoln, CA it is by Sacramento.

[chongo25]

Yeah a master will run 70 - $120 or so , you will need a proportioning valve , I would recommend the wilwood 5 line unit for this , probably $100 or so & you will need to make a few changes to the brake lines , well worth doing , safer for sure . , not $800 worth though . I usually charge $50 / hr , 4 hours should do it + parts , maybe $400 total .

That was about the price it would be at this other place I looked at. And he said he wouldn't charge for the new lines, I thought that is nice.

[moparmaniac59]

I'm on the east coast. Maybe there is someone near you that can drop by and take a look at your car & possibly help with advice or with working out some of the bugs. 

[chongo25]

Oh, well I have looked but have not found anybody yet that was close enough.

[73EStroker]

BTW if your engine is misfiring when you start off that is 95% ignition problems. If you have point type ignition then simply replace them and set the dwell/gap correctly.

[chongo25]

That's what I'm thinking also. Which leads me back to the question on where this oil is coming from. I drove it to a mechanic shop to get he dual master cylinder and tranny work. It was early morning so it wasn hot didn't get above 190 degrees, open the hood and there was no oil splatter. Well I picked it up last night and drove it home, it got up to 200-205. Checked under the hood and notice there was an oil splatter under the hood. Looked everywhere and could not find the source. Also noticed that the car Had a problem starting after turning it off for a few mins, only does this when it is hot. I thought that putting in a new starter would have fixed this.  Any suggestions?

[moparmaniac59]

I would suggest before investing in a new starter, you find out first what the source of the 'hard start' problem is. It may simply be a loose ground wire. I would make sure your battery terminals are clean and well attached and well grounded to a clean bare metal location & all the lugs on the starter itself are tight. Make sure the starter is tight to the transmission housing and not cocked. Is your starter close to the exhaust/headers? Maybe wrapping the starter in a heat shield will help. It could be that your timing is a little off. Too far advanced makes the car harder to start. Also as far as the oil splatter goes, look around the valve covers, dist base, oil press. sending unit, timing chain cover. Is your valve cover filter or PCV valve clogged? I once had a small crack in the tube of my oil pressure sending unit and it took me a while to find the leak. Clean all the oil off thoroughly. Use a good cleaner/degreaser and get it spotless. Then take the car out for a short drive enough to get it good & warmed up. Stop the car, pop the hood and start looking. Use a good bright flashlight or drop light. Look for the highest point of leakage as it will run down the side of things that aren't actually leaking. An oil leak is usually much easier to locate than say a vacuum leak or electrical gremlin. let us know what you find! 

                                                                             Matt B.

[Chryco Psycho]

do you have a PCV valve in the left valvecover connecting to the carb??  If you do not the crankcase will pressurize & force oil out .

[PlumCraZRT]

I would make sure you have a 180deg thermostat in there, put a spacer under the carb (to isolate heat/cool carb), maybe check to see if you have the proper plugs in it (maybe the plugs are too hot).

Sounds like a lot of heat problems with vapor lock on startup (after driving) and dieseling at shut down.

Did you do any of these things yet?  It could be heat soaking the starter is the problem, but I'm betting it's vapor lock.

[chongo25]

Starter was already purchased about a month and half ago, I did have the thermo blanket added. I looked at all valve covers and there are no major wet spots even after the drive. I still have not been able to take it out since but I think it is a great idea to clean it up and look again.

Chryco I looked at what I think is the PCV valve and could not tell,

There is a 180 thermostat in it already and seems to be working correctly.  I am a complete newb when it comes to this stuff, but i am trying to learn here are some pics though.



I am thinking this is the Carb Spacer, not for sure though but it is below the carb.



 
Is the valve cover the big silver thing in this pic ?




Let me know what you guys think, thanks again for all the suggestions.

[Chryco Psycho]

Not a spacer but a thick gasket under the carb ,
the chrome in the picture is the breather in the valve cover .
looks like oil is being sprayed up out of the dipstick tube at the front right of the engine .

[challenger_affair]

My 2 cents, for what its worth...  In one of the pics above it looks like the fuel line is zip-tied to the heater hose.  If I read correctly the engine is having problems running/starting when its warmed up, I wonder if this fuel line configuration could be contributing to a vapor lock type situation.  Its probably better in general not to have the fuel line so close to a source of heat, to the extent possible.  If nothing else maybe it can be insulated somehow? 

[chongo25]

I'll check that out for sure and have to get a spacer. I forgot to say after driving around when it is hot I can tell that the car seems to idle higher than in the beginning. It seems after I stop then let off the brake it goes faster witouth pushing down the gas pedal.  Should i just cut the zip tie and let it hang? It is tight enough right now that the two lines are bumping each other.

[MEK-Dangerfield]

If your car is idling faster after you drive it, I would check to see if you have enough tension on your throttle return spring. It could also be ancient and need replaced.