Air filter?

[LukeSkywalker]

440-6 without filter and shaker hood, run ok.

Put filter and shaker on it, and it wants to stall at intersections.

Filter looks clean.

Any suggestions?

New fuel system - lines, pump, filter, tank, sender unit, everything.
New ignition system - plugs, wires, dist, coil, MSD digi 6 plus, everything
Carb overhaul kit - seals, new chamber, etc.

[wally426ci]

Air/fuel mixture too low maybe? I am purely throwing out ideas. Vacuum would be the opposite.

[LukeSkywalker]

Air/fuel mix screw was a couple of turns open. I'll try to open it more. I've also ordered a new filter just to eliminate that.

[Chryco Psycho]

Is it happening immediatly ? Could be a heat issue , are the grilles completely open , the air flow into the shaker is fairly restrictive but it should not hurt it at idle .Does it do the same thing with the warm air door open into the engine compartment ? Is the heat crossover blocked through the intake ?

[PlumCraZRT]

Sounds like a vacuum leak to me.

[LukeSkywalker]

Is it happening immediatly ? Could be a heat issue , are the grilles completely open , the air flow into the shaker is fairly restrictive but it should not hurt it at idle .Does it do the same thing with the warm air door open into the engine compartment ? Is the heat crossover blocked through the intake ?

Same thing if door is open on top or at bottom of shaker.

What do you mean by heatcross over?


I'll check the mixture screws. I've only adjusted the one on the side of the center carb, to little effect.. Didn't know about the outboard ones... So I'll try that.

Will check vacuum after that.
I have a vacumm gauge to connect between Intake and Brake booster. What should that intake read if it's ok?

[brads70]

It's pretty common to have heat issues ( as Neil said) with the shaker base and the T/A / 6 pack style base as they both really hold a lot of heat around the carbs. The problem I've found gets worce when you use fuel with ethanol as it boils sooner in the carb. For me it's never stalled but I find I have to rev it up to clear out the carb. This only happens on hot days when in traffic.  Might be your problem? or part of it?

By heat crossover  Neil means in the intake, is that passage blocked off? It will help to keep the intake cooler buy not allowing hot exhaust gases to flow through the intake.

[TinCuda]

 

[LukeSkywalker]

Don't think it's a heat issue, as it is like that when its cold aswell as warm. Don't figure I should get much heat problems with the temps we have on the west coast of Norway. 

[PlumCraZRT]

Same thing if door is open on top or at bottom of shaker.

What do you mean by heatcross over?


I'll check the mixture screws. I've only adjusted the one on the side of the center carb, to little effect.. Didn't know about the outboard ones... So I'll try that.

Will check vacuum after that.
I have a vacumm gauge to connect between Intake and Brake booster. What should that intake read if it's ok?

Do you know what kind of cam you're running?  If it's a really mild/stock cam, you should get 12+ inches of vacuum at the booster.

[brads70]

Don't think it's a heat issue, as it is like that when its cold aswell as warm. Don't figure I should get much heat problems with the temps we have on the west coast of Norway. 

Gotcha!    I was just a thought. 

[Road_Runner]

What air filter are you using; the stock Fram type, K&N,   Just a thought, if you're running an older paper filter, maybe it got wet at some point (driving in rain) and is clogged from that?  K&N flows a lot better if you haven't tried that.  Just a thought.

Later, Jim

[LukeSkywalker]

Here we go...


Adjusted timing to peak rpm, then rev'd and got a BANG at exhaust, took it back abit counterclockwise and no BANG at exhaust. Runs alot better.
Then did carburetor setup... - Air mix screw all the way in and then back 1 1/4 turn. That was the point it started to sound right. Left it there. Accelerator pump adjusted so the lever is free at idle. Screw barely touches acc-lever at idle.

It now sounds ok at idle.

Tried putting it in gear.. Better but still weird and very stall-like. It still wants to die when I put it in gear. It's like it really wants to go, I have to apply hard breaks, and since I wont let it, it dies.

Connected vacuum gauge to one of the brake booster out-takes.

At idle, not in gear, it says 7,8 in HG or 4 psi if you like...

When I put it in gear, it drops to 6 in HG.



----- Is that too low at idle?


As far as I can tell there is no leak from the intake to the booster.

----- I am supposed to plug the two holes on the brake booster plug that aren't in use, right?

----- I don't know where the vacuum leak could potentially be..? What am I looking for? Where do I look?

I have plugged the vacuum advance for the distributor at the carb cause my new dist dont have that. No leak there.
The three thin tubes from the carbs go together in a " T ". No leak there.

[wally426ci]

That really sounds like Timing to me but i am no expert. Are you using a digital timing light?

[LukeSkywalker]

Nope. Now I'm going by sound.

Also the fuel level is right. When I take the screw out nothing comes out, give it a nudge and it spills. Fuel is at level with bottom of the hole.

Done according to this -

Fuel Level & Float Adjustment