Author Topic: Advice with shooting metallics.  (Read 1144 times)

Offline IMNCARN82

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Advice with shooting metallics.
« on: May 26, 2012 - 12:59:49 PM »
I sprayed the Duster Plum crazy. Got some faint lines in it.  It's hard to paint the whole car and get it perfect. Can some of you pros give me some advice?   My gun set up might not have been right. Maybe too much product. And not enough overlap. Now I'll go 3/4 so that could have been it. Also... I start on the roof to the B pillar then quick to the other side. Then low and work my way up.  What's a good sequence for painting a whole car like this?  When the compressor kicks on should I wait till it's done?   We got a nice big Ingersoll Rand and a big air dryer. Sata guns.   was spraying with a bit more psi too.     It's not that bad but not good enough.  So I'm wondering what I can do better.     Gonna prep the old charger hood to do just prior to the re-spray to get it right.     Thanks.   I need sum help. R/T
'73 340 5 speed,RMS,BAER,... "Supercuda" (O[   ]||||[   ]O)  
'69 Dodge Charger 383,Auto                  (OiiiiiiiiiiIiiiiiiiiiiO)
13' Challenger R/T BlacktoP  6spd. (OO________OO)
71' Demon
75' Duster
87' Conquest TSI
56' Plaza
Boulder CO
Robert    "cuda bob"




Offline 72cudamaan

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Re: Advice with shooting metallics.
« Reply #1 on: May 26, 2012 - 06:15:52 PM »
What order you paint in is more personal preference. I like to keep a wet edge. Also,
 if you spray your second coat at 90 degrees to the first you won't have lines. Maybe a little closer overlap
as well.
If I cant fix it, it's broke
 
Andy  (phukker whither)

Offline torredcuda

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Re: Advice with shooting metallics.
« Reply #2 on: May 27, 2012 - 06:51:08 AM »
Single stage or base clear?
Jeff
72 Barracuda 340/4spd  Torred
70 roadrunner 383/auto  In-Violet
70 Duster 360/auto drag car  (Petty Blue soon)
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Offline IMNCARN82

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Re: Advice with shooting metallics.
« Reply #3 on: May 27, 2012 - 10:45:08 AM »
Its base/clear.    How can you keep a wet edge ? You start on the roof ?  I can't see how that's really possible when spraying a whole car. 
'73 340 5 speed,RMS,BAER,... "Supercuda" (O[   ]||||[   ]O)  
'69 Dodge Charger 383,Auto                  (OiiiiiiiiiiIiiiiiiiiiiO)
13' Challenger R/T BlacktoP  6spd. (OO________OO)
71' Demon
75' Duster
87' Conquest TSI
56' Plaza
Boulder CO
Robert    "cuda bob"

Offline diyhemi.com

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Advice with shooting metallics.
« Reply #4 on: May 27, 2012 - 12:32:58 PM »
I always lay down a coat, let it flash, then step back 1 foot and lay down a mist coat. That usually helps the flake stand up correctly. Sometimes you get "paint lines" in metallics even with great overlap. This comes from spraying too heavy or close to the body. What this does is puddles the metallic flakes and they all lay flat. Thus from certain angles there is no shimmer because all the flakes faces are pointing in the same direction. A mist coat partially flashes in mid air so that when the flakes hit the surface, they stand up and vary in reflection angles. Hope this helps.
1970 Barracuda Gran Coupe, gen III project (Cone Killing Cuda)

Offline stinger

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Re: Advice with shooting metallics.
« Reply #5 on: May 27, 2012 - 03:11:02 PM »
this is basicly how I do it with a 1.3 RP or NR2000. wet coat sealer,let flash good,30min best. wet coat base and let flash good 10 min. tack and med coat base with gun a little farter back,flash good and clear. first coat clear med wet and second coat wet.

Offline Bullitt-

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Re: Advice with shooting metallics.
« Reply #6 on: May 27, 2012 - 03:57:39 PM »
Not that I know anything about painting but have read that it's important to remove the battery & ground the body when using metallic paint to keep the flakes from lining up along magnetic lines.. 
Wade  73 Rallye 340..'77 Millennium Falcon...13 R/T Classic   Huntsville, AL
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Offline IMNCARN82

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Re: Advice with shooting metallics.
« Reply #7 on: May 28, 2012 - 12:38:49 AM »
The battery is/was completely disconnected. And I always ground the car with a chain over the axel to the ground. Thanks for the replies you guys.    I'm prepping to go again.  So maybe I should start at the rocker on one side and work my way up and over the top all at once and down the other side?   
R/T
'73 340 5 speed,RMS,BAER,... "Supercuda" (O[   ]||||[   ]O)  
'69 Dodge Charger 383,Auto                  (OiiiiiiiiiiIiiiiiiiiiiO)
13' Challenger R/T BlacktoP  6spd. (OO________OO)
71' Demon
75' Duster
87' Conquest TSI
56' Plaza
Boulder CO
Robert    "cuda bob"

Offline stinger

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Re: Advice with shooting metallics.
« Reply #8 on: May 28, 2012 - 10:34:37 AM »
start at the bottom of the fender,work you way up across the front of the car,down the side,around the back and across the otherside of the car and finish across the fender you started.

Offline Cuda_Kevin

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Re: Advice with shooting metallics.
« Reply #9 on: June 18, 2012 - 02:30:32 AM »
I sprayed the Duster Plum crazy. Got some faint lines in it.  It's hard to paint the whole car and get it perfect. Can some of you pros give me some advice?   My gun set up might not have been right. Maybe too much product. And not enough overlap. Now I'll go 3/4 so that could have been it. Also... I start on the roof to the B pillar then quick to the other side. Then low and work my way up.  What's a good sequence for painting a whole car like this?  When the compressor kicks on should I wait till it's done?   We got a nice big Ingersoll Rand and a big air dryer. Sata guns.   was spraying with a bit more psi too.     It's not that bad but not good enough.  So I'm wondering what I can do better.     Gonna prep the old charger hood to do just prior to the re-spray to get it right.     Thanks.   I need sum help. R/T

With a base coat/clear system, it shouldn't matter how you start or finish (well depends on your booth or lack of).  Base coat is just a start and should dry flat and even regardless.

I might guess that in your case it the setup of the gun....check pressures, nozzle settings etc...  too much pressure might look good flowing out, but not so much once it hits the panel...

If you are painting from a shop, just ask to borrow the painters metallic gun...You'll be fine after that : )

Kevin
"I'm from the FAA, and I'm here to help"  : )

Offline HP2

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Re: Advice with shooting metallics.
« Reply #10 on: June 18, 2012 - 09:38:30 AM »
Is your reducing drying things too quickly? I'd think you want it to flash slow so everything has time to lay out and mesh.

Offline Todd Smith

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Re: Advice with shooting metallics.
« Reply #11 on: June 19, 2012 - 12:47:56 PM »
I might guess that in your case it the setup of the gun....check pressures, nozzle settings etc...  too much pressure might look good flowing out, but not so much once it hits the panel...

If you are painting from a shop, just ask to borrow the painters metallic gun...You'll be fine after that : )

Kevin

 :iagree: +  Plum Crazy is a tough color to shoot. You need a GOOD gun that's set up properly, 50 to 75% overlap and lots of patiences. Light coats are better than heavy. The mist/blast coat is a sometimes fix, but won't make up for a good quality gun set up right and good paint.

Good luck with it
« Last Edit: June 19, 2012 - 01:34:42 PM by plumbcrazy »
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