Stock Rear Sway Bar Install on 72 Barracuda with no previous Bar. Help Request.

[Trevor Y]

Road_Runner, you can see the screws in my photo.
I can take a close up of them tonight if you want and post with a bit of dimensions.
They are pointy and a course thread tapered.
Your frame, like mine should have the holes made already.
My car was a 1972 318 Barracuda with no sway bar option.
You need 4 screws per side. 8 total.
Trev

[JayBee]

The rear sway bolts

[Road_Runner]

Fantastic!  Thanks guys, I appreciate the info.  Now I just have to find a supplier for the right bolts, anyone?

Later, Jim

[PlumCraZRT]

Fantastic!  Thanks guys, I appreciate the info.  Now I just have to find a supplier for the right bolts, anyone?

Later, Jim

Jim, are you trying to acheive a restoration look?  Or do you just want something that will never come loose?

I am personally considering taking a different approach with the fasteners as I have little faith in sheetmetal screws holding something like a sway bar in place for a long time.

[ChallengerHK]

Jim, are you trying to acheive a restoration look?  Or do you just want something that will never come loose?

I am personally considering taking a different approach with the fasteners as I have little faith in sheetmetal screws holding something like a sway bar in place for a long time.

...and in fact some folks have said that those screws have elongated the holes over time.

[Road_Runner]

Jim, are you trying to acheive a restoration look?  Or do you just want something that will never come loose?

I am personally considering taking a different approach with the fasteners as I have little faith in sheetmetal screws holding something like a sway bar in place for a long time.

All else being equal I like the stock look, but I'm starting to deviate a little from that in my plans as I put more emphasis on being able to drive & enjoy the car.  So what are you planning on doing, welding the brackets on?

Later, Jim

[burdar]

With almost 100,000 miles, my Challenger didn't show any signs of ovaling out the holes in the frame.  I've heard of that happening when people install through bolts instead of the factory setup.  Also, you can crush the frame with a through bolt.

I think the best thing to do if you don't care about looking original, is to open up the holes and weld in some spacers.(like you find on the alternator/power steering brackets)  That way you can't crush the frame and you have more meat there.

[PlumCraZRT]

So what are you planning on doing, welding the brackets on?

I think the best thing to do if you don't care about looking original, is to open up the holes and weld in some spacers.

I haven't decided yet, but both of those thoughts have crossed my mind.

I also was thinking I could match drill the bracket to the frame and stick a close-clearance tube in there (trimmed/ground to just the right length), then put a bolt through with a locking nut on the other end.  The theory here is the tube ends up taking the shear load from the bracket and the fastener holds it in place. Not sure how big the hole would end up though.

The other thought is to use the sheetmetal screws to hold the thing in place then skip weld around the outside to prevent it from loosening.

[burdar]

I also was thinking I could match drill the bracket to the frame and stick a close-clearance tube in there (trimmed/ground to just the right length), then put a bolt through with a locking nut on the other end.

That's basically what I meant.  You could use those tube "spacers" used on the alt.  They are thick and you can find them in a lot of different lengths.  The through bolt would hold it in place and if the car is already painted, that would probably work.  If it's a new build, I'd weld the ends of the tube to the frame.

[Road_Runner]

I think I'll just go with the stock screw / bolts for now since I don't have any plans for running it on the track at least not for now.  I'll definitely keep an eye on the brackets though if plans change.  If anyone knows of a supplier that has these bolts ready to order let me know, otherwise I'll just match them the best I can.  Problem is all the bolts/nuts/washer type hardware I've gotten recently at Home Depot have been pure junk sourced in China I'm sure.  The last two projects I did around the house were made much more difficult when nuts/bolts rounded off and/or stripped threads, etc.  I'm sure Home Depot saved a few pennies per bolt though so it was well worth the extra trouble.

Later, Jim

[Trevor Y]

Going home to sell my Cuda to a nice family, then i'll have a real nice sway bar set up for sale, plus a worn one.
Trev out!
 

[burdar]

R/T Specialties should have the correct fasteners.  They aren't visable once the wheels are on so you could save yourself some money and get them locally.

[Trevor Y]

How much should I ask for a rear sway bar ass'y for sale?
I powder coated the spring mounts.
New bushing assemblies.
Includes the screws......lol.
250? 300? to start?
Trev

[burdar]

I've seen complete assemblies that need to be restored for $140.

[Chryco Psycho]

Going home to sell my Cuda to a nice family, then i'll have a real nice sway bar set up for sale, plus a worn one.
Trev out!
 

So are you going to get another E body when yours is sold ?