Author Topic: Seat Covers (year one)  (Read 2538 times)

Offline userdead626

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Seat Covers (year one)
« on: June 17, 2012 - 01:16:21 AM »
Just ordered some new seat covers from year one. Does anyone have any information on how difficult these are to install, once i have the seats out.




Offline MEK-Dangerfield

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Re: Seat Covers (year one)
« Reply #1 on: June 17, 2012 - 05:00:59 AM »
It's not all that difficult, just time consuming. There are holes in the seat frames that let you know where to put the hog rings. Step #1 is buy a bag of hog rings and hog ring pliers. Start with the rear seat first to build your confidence. The front seats will have to have the seat bottoms and seat backs separated.

Mike

1970 Challenger - SOLD
2016 SXT+.  1 of 524 SXT+'s in Plumb-crazy for 2016.

Offline 1of1

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Re: Seat Covers (year one)
« Reply #2 on: June 17, 2012 - 01:50:53 PM »
The main thing is to take your time, I agree start from the rears the back seats are only a single set of hogs all the way around. Then the buckets are a double set of hogs with wire guides, one set (left and right) for the butt and back pads and one for the perimiter of the seat. I find that installing the covers on the Buckets , you will need some Batting( this is quilting material not foam! you can get at Walmart). This will allow you to build up the seat where the foam can be worn or saggy and will give you a very nice finish ( also allow you to build up the seat where you need to get rid of wrinkles). Get a large set of compound shears that have a point to them so you can with ease cut out all the old hog rings ( this is a ***** with reg set of wire cutters and you will be removeing the new ones that you install as you go back and tweek your work)

Get the 1/2 inch batting and lay it evenly around the contours of the sides....of the lower and upper buckets...then get a can (or 2) of spray silcone and spray the foam and batting as you go..this will allow the slip of the fabric to roll over the batting and seat foam and the batting will not move. If it does move just use your hand and tuck it back in place and adjust it as you go. Keep your hands clean!!! don't spray the silicone on the face of the seat and wash your hands offten, so you do not get the new cover  dirty....... use alcohol wipes to keep hands and seat clean....

The hardest part is the top of the bucket and getting everything straight. Now what I did is put the covers on (with a few new rings in places that would keep the cover on , but I did not insatll all of them)  and let them stretch in the sun, then I came back and pealed them off abit and straintend things up...If you make sure the the middle set hog rings are keeping the butt pad and back pad straight and in the groves when you first install them then the rest will come out straight as you work from the inside of the seat to the sides.  :2cents:

Before I completed the outside hog rings on the buckets ...I fitted and refitted the covers untill the wrinkles were gone and the extra batting was in place and not showing through the covers.....Let me know if you need help ....
1970 Cuda 383/335hp/4sp/V02
2006 FordGT40 Black Naked

Offline MEK-Dangerfield

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Re: Seat Covers (year one)
« Reply #3 on: June 17, 2012 - 03:29:48 PM »
On another note, Legendary Interior's seat covers fit like a glove. I can't speak for Y1.  I hope they do.   :wave:

Mike

1970 Challenger - SOLD
2016 SXT+.  1 of 524 SXT+'s in Plumb-crazy for 2016.

Offline 1of1

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Re: Seat Covers (year one)
« Reply #4 on: June 17, 2012 - 03:42:17 PM »
On another note, Legendary Interior's seat covers fit like a glove. I can't speak for Y1.  I hope they do.   :wave:

MEK, I agree.....I have tryed Year One for alot of soft good parts and they have not been good....If they are the same price I would order them from Roseville with Dave....He sells legendary and that is where mine came from..... :2cents: :2cents: :2cents:
« Last Edit: June 17, 2012 - 05:33:27 PM by 1of1 »
1970 Cuda 383/335hp/4sp/V02
2006 FordGT40 Black Naked

Offline userdead626

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Re: Seat Covers (year one)
« Reply #5 on: June 18, 2012 - 12:19:18 AM »
The main thing is to take your time, I agree start from the rears the back seats are only a single set of hogs all the way around. Then the buckets are a double set of hogs with wire guides, one set (left and right) for the butt and back pads and one for the perimiter of the seat. I find that installing the covers on the Buckets , you will need some Batting( this is quilting material not foam! you can get at Walmart). This will allow you to build up the seat where the foam can be worn or saggy and will give you a very nice finish ( also allow you to build up the seat where you need to get rid of wrinkles). Get a large set of compound shears that have a point to them so you can with ease cut out all the old hog rings ( this is a ***** with reg set of wire cutters and you will be removeing the new ones that you install as you go back and tweek your work)

Get the 1/2 inch batting and lay it evenly around the contours of the sides....of the lower and upper buckets...then get a can (or 2) of spray silcone and spray the foam and batting as you go..this will allow the slip of the fabric to roll over the batting and seat foam and the batting will not move. If it does move just use your hand and tuck it back in place and adjust it as you go. Keep your hands clean!!! don't spray the silicone on the face of the seat and wash your hands offten, so you do not get the new cover  dirty....... use alcohol wipes to keep hands and seat clean....

The hardest part is the top of the bucket and getting everything straight. Now what I did is put the covers on (with a few new rings in places that would keep the cover on , but I did not insatll all of them)  and let them stretch in the sun, then I came back and pealed them off abit and straintend things up...If you make sure the the middle set hog rings are keeping the butt pad and back pad straight and in the groves when you first install them then the rest will come out straight as you work from the inside of the seat to the sides.  :2cents:

Before I completed the outside hog rings on the buckets ...I fitted and refitted the covers untill the wrinkles were gone and the extra batting was in place and not showing through the covers.....Let me know if you need help ....

Thank you kindly for taking the time for such a detailed reply!
I was initially a bit worried, but it sound like as long as i take my time, should be ok.
I love documenting the process so when i get the covers in, i'll be sure to write-up and share the experience.

Offline 1of1

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Re: Seat Covers (year one)
« Reply #6 on: June 18, 2012 - 11:56:35 AM »
Thank you kindly for taking the time for such a detailed reply!
I was initially a bit worried, but it sound like as long as i take my time, should be ok.
I love documenting the process so when i get the covers in, i'll be sure to write-up and share the experience.

Have you ever watched them spank a seat as they put on the covers , well it works......so slap the seat to get the cover to stretch and settle in as you go....there will be alot of tugging on the buckets but you will do fine....
1970 Cuda 383/335hp/4sp/V02
2006 FordGT40 Black Naked

Offline MEK-Dangerfield

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Re: Seat Covers (year one)
« Reply #7 on: June 18, 2012 - 03:45:02 PM »
....there will be alot of tugging on the buckets but you will do fine....


By the time I was finished, my finger tips couldn't take much more.   :o

Mike

1970 Challenger - SOLD
2016 SXT+.  1 of 524 SXT+'s in Plumb-crazy for 2016.

Offline 1of1

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Re: Seat Covers (year one)
« Reply #8 on: June 18, 2012 - 08:51:08 PM »
By the time I was finished, my finger tips couldn't take much more.   :o

Boy do I know what you mean, my hands felt sore for 3 days....its a workout slapping and pulling the backs of the buckets at the head rest to get the seam straight!!! :eek4:
1970 Cuda 383/335hp/4sp/V02
2006 FordGT40 Black Naked