L.A. Okay, maybe we'll get lucky and autoxcuda wll be watching and chime in. I'm sure he could recommend someone who could help you out. In the mean time, here is what I see.
The core of your whole problem is your wheel/tire combo. It looks like you have a 15x7 chrome mod wheel with too much negative backspace. I'm guessing you have 4 to 4.5" of negative back spacing, which tyically isn't a problem, but in this case it is putting the tire out further on the hub. Combine with with what looks like a 70 or 75 series tire and you have the wheel lip interference, which is what drove the changes that have created this problem. You cranked the ride height up to reduce tire interference and have put it at such a tall ride height that there is no way you will be able to get the alignment set.
Looking at your lower control arm, please get a tape meaure and measure the distance from the floor to the bottom of the lower ball joint, this is measurement B. Check it and right it down. Now measure the distance from the floor to the bottom of the torsion bar socket. This is measurement A. Subtract B from A. I'm betting it is close to or over 3 inches. It should be no more than 1 1/8". Until you can get the ride height down to a reasonable level, nothing we can suggest will work.
However, assuming you can change out to a set of wheels/tires or borrow something that won't hit to get the ride height down, we can move forward. The first, very first ,thing you do is set ride height as it impacts everything else. I'm willing to put money on it that if you drop the nose down to at least the factory spec, then things will come back into the proper location. However, here are some more checks to perform once you get it down.
The upper control arm eccentrics/cams control the caster/camber relationship. You want the rear cam on the upper arm to be turned to pull the nut closer to the engine. You want the front cam to push the nut out closer to the tire. This creates maximum caster, but may leave camber out of whack. Next you want to tap the front cam to slowly pull the nut in towards the engine until your tire is vertical. A simple bubble meaure can be used to verify. Once you have this in place, then tighten down the cams.
Next you want to measure center to center on each tie rod. This should be equal. I would guess they are, but lets verify. Assuming they are, you want to measure a point on the front of the front tire as high up as is reasonable that will allow a tape to measure across both front tires. Pick an arbitrary spot that is the same on both tires, like a tread rib, ossibly in the middle and make a mental note of this tread rib.. Write down this measuremeant as B. Next take the same measurement at the same rib on the back of the front tire, again as high up as possible to reach both left and right tires. This is measurement A. Sbbtract B from A. It should total no more than 1/8" in. This is toe.
You previously said the steering was loose so you tightened down the sector nut. This is the large nut at the top of the small dome on the top of the steering box. Did you tighten this nut or another one? I ask because now your car pulls. I wonder if perhaps you tightened down the nuts holding the valve body, which very, very slightly altered its position on the steering box. When this valve moves, however slight it may be, it alters the left/right pressure and will create a pull. To change this pull, you have to just barely loosen these two nuts, then gently tap the valve the opposite way of the ull, then re-tighten. This is a touchy operation and will probably require repeated attemts to get right. That's normal, just keep at it until it doesn't pull.
After that, you will have a pretty basic set up that should be adequate to get you anywhere you need to go to get it verified. It will stop the tire wear and resultant squealing, will return normal suspension travel, and allow enough adjustment to get things back where they need to be. Once you get to a shop, tell them to leave ride height alone, get as much positive caster as possible up to around 4* , and set camber at zero to -.5 degrees. Toe in should be set at .125 total in. If you are at a place that has the late model attitude of toe and go, and only does late model stuff, tell them you want '05 Mustang specs. They will mess with it for an hour, come out and tell you they can't get 7* of postive caster with your car. It will only reach 3*. Smile and tell tham that is fine, pay your bill, and drive away happy.
