Horn - Crush Can Hitting Turn Signal Switch - Please Help!!!

[EddieE]

74 Cuda - I pulled my steering wheel and crush can to put a new turn signal/emergency flasher/horn switch.  Now the crush can, and the associated grounding ring that activates the horn, are grounding out when the wheel is turned.  It's the lug that is attached to the copper grounding ring that's hitting the screw that goes through the switch and attaches the turn signal lever. I can see it through the hole where the grounding wire passes to be attached to the horn switch.

I've spent hours on this, so I obviously don't know the cause. What would cause tis? Is the steering shaft too low (far forward) in the steering column? If I put the crush can back on to get a good grip, I can pull the shaft toward the driver's seat about 1/4 inch, so is there maybe a retainer that needs to keep the shaft up higher in the column?

I noticed that my steering coupler does not have the hole for the little drift pin that came with the new steering coupler parts (I replaced the box with a Steer and Gear rebuild).  The big drift pin holding the coupler to the steering box went in fine, there's just no hole for the tiny little one that goes through the coupler into the steering shaft in some pictures I have seen.

Please help, or let me know which new column (maybe tilt) I should buy. I'm pissed off enough to throw money at it, so don't try and calm me down!!!!!

[burdar]

THere's a snap ring in there somewhere.  If that were broken or missing, I think it would cause the entire shaft to slide down and come into contact with the turn signal switch.

[Chryco Psycho]

 
There is 2 snap rings 1 each side of the brg just under the turn signal switch , make sure both are in place & tight

[EddieE]

You guys are awesome with the correct info FAST! Those rings are missing. Does anyone know what size they are? If not I'll just get a large assortment. Am I correct assuming that they are standard not metric. I know the commies were pushing the metric system into our cars when I was 14.

[Chryco Psycho]

I would think they are std not metric , 3/4 " I believe but they are a very thin snap ring , std replacments may be too big to clear

[burdar]

If you can't find anything new, you could always go to a salvage yard.  There's a pretty good chance that those rings were just a standard size used in a lot of Chrysler columns.

[Chryco Psycho]

any tilt or telescopic column will be a GM / saginaw column & will not have the parts , pre 70 will be different also , so you actually have a smaller window than you might guess , I would try Dodge trucks into the mid 80s without tilt

[4 speed fish]

I would call someone that restores the mopar columns they might have some extras around. SMS restorations might have them.There is a guy selling restored E body columns on Ebay that might help you.

[EddieE]

I got an assortment of clips from a friend and found two that worked. The clips went on either side of the bearing with the rubber collar around it. Everything works perfect now, no shorts or crazy clicks or anything. Horn relay only clicks when you press the horn button.

I researched the ididit tilt column for the e body. By the time you get the column, u-joint, horn kit and a Grant Tuff Wheel knockoff it's about $1200. My car has very little room between the steering wheel and the bucket seat, so close that I can't slide into the front seat with my phone in my front pocket. I'm only 5'11" and 185, so anyone bigger than me would probably NEED the tilt wheel. Do a lot of e body owners install tilt, or is it just a waste of money?

[Chryco Psycho]

some do , it is not an easy swap & the steering wheel cannot tilt far without hitting the dash , most go to a smaller wheel like the Grant tuff wheel repro

[EddieE]

Chryco I have the cheesey two spoke with the plastic rim. Sad because my car is original triple black with AC and lots of other options. My wheel just looks like it's 38 years old, and a repro of that model would look just as generic. My wheel seems to be about 16" and the Grant repro tuffwheel says it's 15". Not an earth-shattering issue either way, I'm just checking out what others are doingsince this is my first Mopar.

[Chryco Psycho]

you have the factory wheel for all E bodies 72-74
 the tuff wheel is an improvement

[EddieE]

Went to a little car show in Mt. Airy, MD this afternoon. Had fun showing tall and chubby guys that they cannot fit in a 'Cuda with the stock wheel and no tilt.  It almost makes me want to keep this setup.

[BS CUDA]

Went to a little car show in Mt. Airy, MD this afternoon. Had fun showing tall and chubby guys that they cannot fit in a 'Cuda with the stock wheel and no tilt.  It almost makes me want to keep this setup.

I am 5' 11" and 210lbs and have lots of room in my 'Cuda. Is your seat moving all the way back???

[Super Blue 72]

Chryco I have the cheesey two spoke with the plastic rim. Sad because my car is original triple black with AC and lots of other options. My wheel just looks like it's 38 years old, and a repro of that model would look just as generic. My wheel seems to be about 16" and the Grant repro tuffwheel says it's 15". Not an earth-shattering issue either way, I'm just checking out what others are doingsince this is my first Mopar.

I have that steering wheel in my '72 Challenger and I'm not particularly fond of it either.

I looked on craigslist and fond a blue Tuff wheel.  I have a blue interior so it was a cool find.

The 2 spoke is about 15.5".  The Tuff wheel is about 14".  I was told it was from an '80's Mirada.  Not sure if all the Tuff wheels are the same diameter.  It has the same mounting holes as the 2 spoke so should swap in easily.  The repro wheels may need a little work to make it fit, Chryco can tell you exactly but I think it involves drilling and tapping holes for the horn switch and making a slot for the horn switch.

Keep in mind the mods I mentioned are for the Grant model 860 wheel (looks like a Tuff wheel but less $$$), the actual Tuff wheel repro may not need the mods.