Putting 140 amp alternator, can't really find any info

[qnitro]

All,

I'm building a pro-touring 1972 Cuda. I posted some pics of the look so far in the wheel section if you want to see so far. It's a 383 with 5 speed keisler, electric holley pump, dual electric fans, I have a nice after market stero with a couple of amps, and I'm drawing some power. I bought a nice power master that will bolt onto the serpintine belt set up I have on the 383, the issue I have is I need to get rid of the external regulator? And such. I have searched the net and this site, but I haven't had much luck. Is there any instructions I can be pointed to so I don't burn my baby

Thanks

Kevin

[BS CUDA]

All,

I'm building a pro-touring 1972 Cuda. I posted some pics of the look so far in the wheel section if you want to see so far. It's a 383 with 5 speed keisler, electric holley pump, dual electric fans, I have a nice after market stero with a couple of amps, and I'm drawing some power. I bought a nice power master that will bolt onto the serpintine belt set up I have on the 383, the issue I have is I need to get rid of the external regulator? And such. I have searched the net and this site, but I haven't had much luck. Is there any instructions I can be pointed to so I don't burn my baby

Thanks

Kevin

 You will certainly want to do the ammeter bypass as instructed here http://madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
As well you will want a large fuse / link in between the alternator and battery. I am sure more members will chime in with more info.

[qnitro]

Thanks for the info, I reviewed the by pass.. my question, Im going to run after market guages..do I need to run back to the amp meter in your opinion? I was thinking of just runing a 4 or 6 gauge to the starter relay and ground.? Am I missing anything??

Kevin

You will certainly want to do the ammeter bypass as instructed here http://madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
As well you will want a large fuse / link in between the alternator and battery. I am sure more members will chime in with more info.

[BS CUDA]

Thanks for the info, I reviewed the by pass.. my question, Im going to run after market guages..do I need to run back to the amp meter in your opinion? I was thinking of just runing a 4 or 6 gauge to the starter relay and ground.? Am I missing anything??

Kevin

 You are wanting to eliminate the ameter from the equation. I am assuming that you will be installing a volt meter as a replacement which ties in differently.

[qnitro]

Yes.. I usually a GM guy, Im all over protouring.com, and I never mess with this old stuff, I just upgrade to LS motors and computer operation I say Im a GM guy, but I have a new SRT8 Chally and a Viper too

You are wanting to eliminate the ameter from the equation. I am assuming that you will be installing a volt meter as a replacement which ties in differently.

[Chryco Psycho]

I would do the alt bypass as suggested running the power directly to the start relay then run a bank of relays from there like all the new cars do to send power directly to the fans etc that way none of the heavy load has to go through the fire wall at all . The firewall connectors are not designed to carry high loads . You probably need a high load wire say 6 - 8 gauge to the start relay & a low load signal wire to the alt to tell the built in reg when to charge , the blue wire at the voltage reg should work for this .
 I did this on a RR , I had a custom 110 amp alt built , & pirated a relay center from a car in the wreckers , we had 2 fuel pumps , electric water pump , 3 electric fans, & the EFI computer to run , 60 amps was not enough .

[qnitro]

I ran my fuel pump and fans off 3 relays from the starter relay post... So Im good there... Im trying to figure out where to cut out and where to splice.. I might just take this to a shop and have them do it.. Ohh and I moved my battery to trunk