New guy has some questions about 71 Challenger

[glovemeister]

Hey Ya'll,

First post here, hopefully many more in the future. I've known a friend to have a Challenger in his shop. I've been asking for 3 years if he wants to sell it and he wouldn't do it. This year he has to buy his house out as it is split up into ownership as it was once a farm property, and the rest of the people want out. Anyway he is selling some of his toys/projects. So what he has told me about the car: I've seen it once or twice before, but never really heavily looked at it as I didn't want to be sad when he wouldn't sell it

71 Challenger R/T
Originally a 383(Original motor is gone) with 727 trans (said that the TC is gone, and it may need a rebuild).
Originally red exterior with R/T stripe, now is primer I believe.
Factory AC (Doubtful he has pullys, etc as he doesn't have the motor)
Factory 150 cluster
Black interior,from factory with built in harnesses
Front discs from factory

The fire wall was painted plum crazy as it appears someone was gonna start the restore and sold it to my buddy.

Interior isn't horrible, could use a could cleaning and of course re upholstered to be worth top dollar.

The floor pans will need to be replaced as they are rusted. He said the rest of the car is overall rust free though, (haven't verified). It has sat in his shop for the last 10 years and not to many people know about it, is why he still has it.  He has a 440 (unsure of what from) that needs rebuild he would throw in.

He wants $4k total, with $2k down and he will sign the title and I can pay him the rest whenever in a few payments.

My thoughts were that I've always wanted a Challenger, and likely I would just go ahead and swap in whatever type of mated 727 mopar v8 engine I could find on CL to get it driving. While I work on the bodywork and rebuild the 440 and the 727, or just find a 383 so at least the right type of motor was in it.

Is there anything in particular I should be concerned with, in terms of the purchase? My main worry was that it wasn't a factory RT car... Wil verifiy with fender tag.
What is the difficulty/cost of rebuilding the 727 and the 440? Near as I can tell about $500-900 each for parts alone.

Thanks everyone!

[72bluNblu]

Unless its a rusty mess, $4k isn't a bad price for a '71 Challenger, even if it isn't a real R/T.

You'll spend way more than $900 rebuilding the 440. WAY MORE. Even a stock rebuild will set you back more than that in parts, plus machining costs, balancing, assembly etc. I'd think you'd be lucky to get a 440 built for under $3.5k.

Rust is going to be a big deal. If it needs floors, make sure you check every part of the car for rust. Every panel that needs to be replaced adds hundreds of dollars to the repair costs just in parts. Be sure the frame rails are solid. If they aren't its a huge added expense.

Sounds like you may be missing a lot of parts. May not seem like a lot, but when you start putting it back together you'll find that you're missing twice as many things as you thought. It's VERY easy to get nickel and dimed to death with small parts.

If you're worried about it being a real R/T, make sure you check the fender tag. If it doesn't have one, or any buildsheets, assume its not an R/T. Even if it was, without those items you'll probably never prove it was.  Again, depending on the condition of the car, $4k isn't a bad price for a '71 at all, even one needing an engine, trans, and floors. '71 is a popular year, and if it was a big block car, it's worth some money. Even less popular Challengers would get that much for a clean shell.

Make sure all the VIN numbers match, dash, fender tag if present, door sticker if present, cowl, radiator shroud, there's a few other places.

Figure out how you're going to title it BEFORE you buy it. Does your friend have a clear title? Or is it going to be a bill of sale? Find out what you need in your state, buying a project and then finding out you can't title it is no fun. Even straightforward transactions can be a pain at the DMV, so make sure you get all the right paperwork.

Enough of the bad news, good luck! Sounds like you may have quite a find on your hands if it really is a '71 R/T!

[brads70]

Welcome !
 I can't add any more  than what was said above. 4K sounds like a good deal!   Just be sure you know what your in for . It can/will get expencive! It doesn't all have to happen over night though. Look around at the bottom of the front and rear windsheilds for rust. If the trunk is rusty then the rear window leaks/has rust. Very common on these cars.
This site is great for finding the best deal/quality in parts, members are also great in that reguard! 

Post up some pictures when/if you can!

Here is a great site to poke around on to get an idea of pricing? Dave ( works at Roseville) gives CC.com members a discount too!
http://www.rosevillemoparts.com/index.php/c/restoration-a-b-e-body-/cPath/347

[glovemeister]

Thanks y'all. So would you think throwing whatever I can get with a mated 727 in there to get it driving would be a good idea? Should it only need floor pans those are arund $100 per right?

[72rtchallenger]

Thanks y'all. So would you think throwing whatever I can get with a mated 727 in there to get it driving would be a good idea? Should it only need floor pans those are arund $100 per right?

you would need to look at how much of the area of the floor pans need replaced to see if the smaller or larger pans will be what you need and they sell full floor pans that are alittle higher all depends on your need and 4k isnt bad ,,if you can do all the work ,and a good v8 build isnt cheap if done properly ,,if you have a motor and tranny to throw in and drive it for now is entirely up to you ,,you should take a good close look at the front an rear frame rails before you buy it so you dont run into hidden problems later and as said look around the windshield channels and check the quarter panels very close to make sure its not full of some type filler

[brads70]

Thanks y'all. So would you think throwing whatever I can get with a mated 727 in there to get it driving would be a good idea? Should it only need floor pans those are arund $100 per right?

Pans are more than $100? Sure any engine will do till you can build what you want.
http://www.rosevillemoparts.com/product_info.php/floor-/front-floor/p/70-e-body-front-floor-pan-full-oe-style-with-flange/cPath/347_133_262/products_id/5619


Where are you at? I ask as I just pulled a running 440/727 out of my Challenger?

[glovemeister]

I'm located in oregon. The part pertaining to the filler was interesting he said the roof to I believe fender panels had something like a weld crack and then it was rewelded and bondoed or theoriginal factory filler of this location cracked and he bondoed it.

[Super Blue 72]

Geeze, all this jibber jabber and not one mention of this!!!

 

Would love to see pics of this car!    Hope you get it.  Dependiing on what rust/body work it needs $4k sounds liek a good deal!

BTW- not sure if it was mentioned above but if the VIN starts with "JS" (vs "JH"), you have yourself an R/T car.   

[jimynick]

Welcome to the site and 4k for a decent '71 is a good deal. HOWEVER, these cars are notorious for rusting and the hood hinge mounting area in the frt inr fndrs should be looked at; the 1/4's and trunk extensions that connect them to the trunk floor, floor pans (plural), deck lids, rockers and valances should be looked at. The rails have been mentioned and when tapped with a small (1lb) hammer should sound solid and not punky. As for power, ANY engine Mopar made during it's lifetime will fit it, from the /6 to a hemi and a 904 or 727 will too. Talk nice to Brad, he's got just what you need, all ready to go and I'll bet for less than it'll cost you to do it yourself, too. 

[glovemeister]

Sorry guys have got to pics. I never took any when I was out there a year ago because I didn't want to be reminded of what I would never have. Ideally this weekend pics and full specs will be put up on here.


Thanks for the quick RT tip. If its not an RT I should pass or try and negotiate price down?

If it have rust on the frame and in other spots should I just pass, or try and negotiate down?

BTW Brad, you wouldn't happen like to good ole Chocolate Chip cookies would you? Could make up a few tons of them in trade for that combo you have there. 

What were you thinking price wise?

['Cuda Hunter]

Make sure you get pictures of the fender tag and or the build sheet if available.

Those numbers could change your mind as to what the car is worth.

[glovemeister]

Alright guys I do appreciate all the help. I'll knock off all the speculating until I get some pictures up here. Just am pretty excited. Never thought I would have a chance to maybe buy my favorite car of all time.

[72bluNblu]

Thanks for the quick RT tip. If its not an RT I should pass or try and negotiate price down?

$4k for a decent, mostly complete '71 Challenger is still a great deal. But you could always try.   

If it have rust on the frame and in other spots should I just pass, or try and negotiate down?

If it has rust in the frame, it really depends on if its a real R/T and how much money you want to throw at the car. For $4k, I'd STILL buy an original '71 R/T even if it needed some frame work, it's probably still worth more than that. But, I can also do the framework myself, so that's a factor.

But, if its not an R/T and has rust in the frame, you might want to pass.

[TinCuda]

I love these stories.

Just FYI,   my car was pretty clean and rust free.   It took almost a year and I had all my money saved up front.   It ended up costing me $15K to get it up and running.   Restoring one of these cars can easily cost you twice that if you don't do it yourself.

I did not do my own paint and body.  I did do all my interior.   Carpet to headliner.

I spent 3-4 grand just in engine parts.  Think chevy/ford prices X2.

My point is,  there is a lot of ways to spend money on these cars.  Just don't get discouraged.   It
will be worth it.

I wish you the best.

[glovemeister]

Hey guys thanks for the advice. I think if the frame or any major stuff is rotten ill pass. Realistically I can't do frame work and from my understanding attempting to fix a sheet metal panel is rough. This weekend ill be done working and see  the deal.