New guy has some questions about 71 Challenger

[glovemeister]

Well y'all just talked to my friend it needs a hood and a drivers door and the front window is crackedmaybe pass on this one I don't know yet.

[jimynick]

With out trying to be rude; don't be silly here. Both those parts are bolt on and even the more difficult stuff can be hired out. Slow down, get the numbers/build plate info off the car and let the knowledgeable people here help you make a decision. I'll pretty near guarantee you that if the car is at least half decent, let alone a R/T, that if you could buy it for the mentioned 4K; you could re-sell it right here and maybe make a couple 'o quid. Good luck with your decision! 

[Super Blue 72]

Eh, go check it out and take some pics, at least to satisfy our curiosity!!! 

Before you go, get a few things under your belt.

VIN#-  JS=R/T, JH=base Challenger.  If there is a 29, like JH29 or JS29, it'll be an SE car.

5th digit:

This is the engine code:
B = 198 ci (1970-71 only)
C = 225 ci (1970-72 only)
G = 318 ci (All years)
H = 340 ci (1970-73 only)
J = 340 ci six pack (1970 only)
L = 360 ci (1974 only)
L = 383 ci (1970-71 only)
N = 383 ci High power (1970-71 only)
R = 426 ci Hemi (1970-71 only)
U = 440 ci (1970 only)
V = 440 ci six pack (1970-71 only)

6th digit=year, ie 1=1971, 0=1970, etc...

7th digit=This is the assembly plant code. Challengers were built at two plants in the U.S.
B = Dodge Main, Hamtramck, MI (all models)
E = Los Angeles, CA (no hemi cars or convertibles)

Also, so if the nose has wide chrome.   This was a 1971 option only.  See the pic below.  1st pic has wide chrome on nose, 2nd does not.

[1970A66D21]

If the car does not have the numbers matching engine or tranny,does it matter if it is a real R/T?It could be worth rebuilding/restoring regardless.It sometimes seems that R/T's and T/A 's,with non matching parts and VIN problems,are worth the trouble but  non R/T's are not.

We are all Challenger,Cuda,Barracuda fans and owners.

[GranCuda1970]

The Black one!!!   

[GranCuda1970]

I think it matters, but if era replacement parts were installed bumps it back up a bit. right year block, tranny, alt, radiator, rearend.

[Super Blue 72]

Forgot about those rear quarter lovers/vents/what ever you call them on the R/T cars, see the black Challenger pic....I dig those... 

[glovemeister]

With out trying to be rude; don't be silly here. Both those parts are bolt on and even the more difficult stuff can be hired out. Slow down, get the numbers/build plate info off the car and let the knowledgeable people here help you make a decision. I'll pretty near guarantee you that if the car is at least half decent, let alone a R/T, that if you could buy it for the mentioned 4K; you could re-sell it right here and maybe make a couple 'o quid. Good luck with your decision! 

Hey bud,

Yeah sorry about that. I just got excited from the get go because 1 he was gonna sell it, 2 for a reasonable price, and first mention the only thing it needed was a motor. I've sent out searches to pre-80 yards for parts. Will post up all info and pics regardless of if I buy it or not, as I could maybe link y'all up with my friend since he wants it to go to a good home.

[glovemeister]

I really love that black one.

[glovemeister]

Hey guys,

I made it out to look at the car today. I was sad to see that the fender tag and door sticker were gone. I looked in and around and under the car and it wasn't really too bad, other than 30+ yo car rust. The floor pans (front side) sounded punky. The top/quarters had a couple few cracks in the paint. Overall it sounded solid there.

The dash pad is shot, as well as the interior plastic. It is all pretty sunfaded.

On the drivers rear trunk area I noticed a hole in the fender on that side. It wasn't huge but about the size of a quarter and is perfectly circular so I figure something was mounted there. I couldn't see most of the interior or the rally gauges as he had those boxed up.

I do have a picture of the vin and when my cell phone is charged will read vin and decode it.

[Super Blue 72]

 

[glovemeister]

Here are the two pics the turned out. The shop was too dark and dusty for the inside or truck pics to work.

Car has a JS23H vin which matches the firewall number.

From decoding the vin the car was made at Hammartack (sp?), special price class, 340 motor (this was weird to me as I thought it was a 383 I guess mistakes are made in remembering stuff over the years).

[glovemeister]

Hey guys,

I've been striking out on all accounts lately, with both finding parts for this car or going with a different one.

Will any year hood or door fit a 71? The parts yard guy swears it is year to year only, ie 70 is only for 70's 71 is only for 71s.

[Super Blue 72]

'71 is unique in that it's the only year, at least for the Rallye hood, that does NOT have the D-O-D-G-E letters across the front.  1970 had it, '1972-1974 had it.  1970 was unique in that early cars didn't have crush zones or something to that matter until like half way through the year.

[glovemeister]

Fantastic info there bud.

So far from what I can tell replacement costs to get it into a whole roller.

Grille repro or original used $150-$250
Original door, or repro with all the parts $350+$150 freight, or $800-1000+freight
Hood - Original rt $500, original flat $80-$300, repro rt $500+$150 freight.

Does any of that come into consideration with the price of the car or no?